Devils work

First topic message reminder :

I couldnt help it ! I know i'm weak ,the devil made me do it .I pulled them OUT.
Extraction tool please.

3 mins later

Handy hint: After pulling airbox back,insert 2 bolts in holes and attach to occky strap to keep it pulled back out of the way.

gus wrote:I have been known to ride it ,once i got into second gear . Actually i had a small op. so no riding allowed .Got to fill the day in .

At least you can tinker with your bike Gus my physio told me I am not allowed to lift anything heavier than 2 kg for 6 weeks. I am soooooo bored and I have so many tweaks I want to do on the bike.

I am planning to make some flush mount LED indicators over the next week or two at least I can do that much and the led strips for the bark busters should finally arrive this week too.

Yeah. My riding will stop soon for about 6 weeks. (Hernia damn it). Lots of time to clean & polish maybe.

When you did that run. (very impressive by the way) What pipe were you running? because after reading that, I'm beginning to think that the Yoshi on mine is tip material. Before the Fi Tuner. The first block on the fuel guage disappeared at 61k. The bower started flashing at 175k. Now with the tuner, the first block goes at 73k the second at 132k the third at 196k, and I haven't checked the rest.

Well it was a Lazer but i cut it 130mm shorter ,so now its nothing special .I wouldnt get those figures on a normal ride, remember i was trying to
get as far as i could ( riding like a sightseeing ride )

Those fuel details I posted before were at 100kph. At 110kph the exhaust smells hot and i get the inside glowing.

Kaupy1962 wrote:When you did that run. (very impressive by the way) What pipe were you running? because after reading that, I'm beginning to think that the Yoshi on mine is tip material. Before the Fi Tuner. The first block on the fuel guage disappeared at 61k. The bower started flashing at 175k. Now with the tuner, the first block goes at 73k the second at 132k the third at 196k, and I haven't checked the rest.

On a regular ride my blocks disappear at about 55km each. A 6th gear highway snore gets about 70.
Economy on these bikes is very "personal" and nothing spectacular against other bikes with more grunt.

Sorry to drag an old thread up, however after a boot load of pooping my pants I took the plunge and took four little discs out of the throttle body on the GSX1250FA. The "quick test ride" took nearly an hour I was having so much fun. My god, I never realised how much she surged until they came out. At 42yrs old I was like an 18yrs old on my fist date. One hour of work resulted in a brand new bike. I love the DEVIL.

I finally figured out what a JIS screwdriver is. In my world of electronics it is better known as Pozidrive

Jaycar sell a set of drive bits (about 100 bits) which includes the pozidrive range.

I've used them for a number of years and been really impressed with the quality for such a low price.

The set is Jaycar TD-2038 and sells for $19-95

Just another thought for anyone having trouble removing the screws from the throttle plates.

Hold the tip of the soldering iron against the screw and add a little solder to the tip. This should increase the contact area and transfer more heat - try to not get any solder into the head of the screw

Just awaiting delivery of my new toy and then secondaries will be coming out. I have the tools the Garage is all cleaned out and ready for the work to begin.

Happy birthday Mpottsy

here are the toys. have also just ordered a new Kincrome 3/8 torque wrench which will arrive this week. The Aprilia arrives next week in its boxes.

oh happy days.

I'm glad to see you guys taking the plunge. This is the cheapest and best mod you can ever do. As far as the screwdriver is concerned, a JIS type is not necessary. I purchased a cheap size 0 screwdriver and a microbutane torch. I heated each screw for 5 seconds and they came out easily. Have fun!

I did this last weekend, and found it was easy.  I purchased a microbutane torch and a new Jaycar #0 philips from Jaycar ($5) and heated each plenum for 15 secs as in Reardo's youtube link and they were out in a few minutes.

Happy days Buford. Makes a heap of difference. Hope you synchronised the throttle bodies whilst you were there

reddog wrote:Happy days Buford. Makes a heap of difference. Hope you synchronised the throttle bodies whilst you were there

Need to buy a carbtune, next on the list of things to do
Definitely makes a difference to throttle response, I need to recalibrate my down-shift blipping, I'm getting too many revs now!
I didn't drill holes in the airbox, I removed the snorkel and still run OEM filter, but run healtech FI and yoshi can.

It definitely makes an appreciable difference, it howls towards the redline now but I have not ridden it in a week since doing it (life's busy atm!)

One thing I've noticed, it definitely has more power, but the engine now seems less smooth, is a throttle sync generally required after this mod (secondarectomy) ?,
Other changes I made at the time were pairs removal (might need to redo as I didn't use high-temp rtv), snorkel removal.

It's definitely worth doing a tb sync. Depending where you live one of the lads on here might be able to lend you a carb tune tool for a weekend to do the job. My bike runs super smooth without them, the only downside I found was a little less engine braking.

buford_t_justice wrote:One thing I've noticed, it definitely has more power, but the engine now seems less smooth, is a throttle sync generally required after this mod (secondarectomy) ?,
Other changes I made at the time were pairs removal (might need to redo as I didn't use high-temp rtv), snorkel removal.

Definitely do a TB sync. When you removed the PAIRS, if you just removed the covers but not the gaskets and reeds, you won't need sealer as the rubber gasket provides a seal. If you removed the reeds and gaskets from the cover, you will need to seal things.

I've been working abroad so I've not ridden my bike at all for months, but today I recommissioned her, popped out the secondaries, popped in a K&N, and mapped the PCV with a map from the powercommander website (euro model, yosh pipe, aftermarket filter, O2 eliminator). I already have a  race can installed on the standard headers. I should have balanced the TBs but ran out of time. Test ride tonight...can't wait!!!

Jobs to do,

Balance TBs
Fit PAIR removal kit
Ride more

 

Found cause of rough running, when I did the PAIRs, I removed the coolant overflow hose to make some room, and coolant was all through #1 plug to the coil.
I dispersed it with wd40, then contact cleaner then compressed air.


I'll put this as a warning, if you remove any hose from thermostat housing on top of the engine, be very careful as coolant easily makes its way into the ignition/electrics (use rags)


I did this and managed to flood the engine because the bike wouldn't fire up, I got it started eventually and had black smoke billowing out lol.

I also changed the spark plugs as I thought I may have fouled them when I had starting issues as above. Plugs were easy to change (lever the coils out with a screwdriver (I know the manual says this is naughty)), longest part is removing the fairing.

Found a surprisingly large amount of rust on cyl 4 spark plug, not sure how this got in there, will put some pics up tonight of the plugs from my 11,000km engine ...
Anyhoo all running well now, ordered a carbtune, so that's next on the list ...

 Did I hear the word "rust ".

Not sure why I waited so long.
Got some time to do the secondaryectomy today.
Followed it with a TB sync and TPS check.




Have only had a chance for a 1/2 hour ride so far. Initial SOP thoughts:

Slightly less bottom end
much better mid range....and keeps pulling.
Slightly less engine braking
Throttle lag has gone.
Low speed surging has GONE.

No probs getting them out with number "0" Phillips head combined with the little pencil torch.

Agree with others...do it.


Bill.

See we don't tell fibs on this forum

Engine braking is definitely not the same, but no big deal. Hows the hard throttle wheel stands in 1st gear now?

Yeah it's definitely made that front wheel lighter.

Finally got around to doing this mod, very easy and simple if you follow Gus instructions, my bike is standard except for yoshi exhaust and gear indicator with TRE, bike now lifts front wheel in first without any effort and is smooth through the gears, not that it wasnt before but has a better feel to it like now your more in control of the throttle and how the bike responds, so yes your right with what you say Gus well worth the effort, whole job took about 2 hours including balancing throttle bodies, thanks Gus