pc5 and other work.

well, after reading and re-reading all the fun people have, i decided to get the bike serviced, remove secondaries, replace front fork springs and get a pc5 installed/air filter etc.
I think the springs I got are on the stiff side (my request) .95's instead of the .91's.
Also had the cartridges tweaked to allow better flow, so the bike is fairly stiff on the road but gives a bit, the stock springs had to be wound up and that made them wooden throughout the whole ride. they held well but I thought i would give them a tweak before adding more hp.
Horsepower....
Decided to take the bike to a certified dyno and pc5 shop at slacks creek (brisbane)
turned up to pick it up, stuck my head in the dyno room just in time to see the oil start pouring on the floor after second run. apparently a seal in the water pump area may have let go, so less than happy right now as I have no bike for the long weekend.
shop says it was due to servicing company putting too much oil in when the serviced it. cant find any other horror stories on the internet
positives : first run with new air filter (DNA I think), and no secondaries had 113hp (up 7hp) before any tuning and running lean as hell. 14.3 AFR. The guy was doing the fuel mapping when things got wet, he reckons that after repairs, the bike should get between 120 and 130hp.
that's about it from me.

My bike was dyno'd early in its life and it didn't dump oil all over the place. I would be back to the place you got it serviced and ask for a please explain

red,
it's still at the dyno shop and I wont know until they get to look at it tuesday as to whether it is simple.
I seriously doubt I will get anything clear out of this. with the oil on the floor, it was down to normal levels, so no proof.
Service company will say it was fine, suzuki would not warranty it (even though it is less than 12 months old and always serviced by suzuki shops), dyno guy will say it was service company's fault. all 3 would dance around it blaming each other
my best hope is that it is a $20 seal and that it was a once off. The guy who is doing the tuning is supposed to be good and works on a lot of top end bikes, so here's hoping he really does know his sh1t.
If I had been riding home when it happened, I would have been a gonner given the oil on the rear wheel, so I can only be thankful it happened in the shop.
I will post when bike is back and with data sheets.
cheers

Good that you are thinking positive. Will be interested to see the results.

bike is back. no ride as yet.
stats
126hp
92ft lbs torque.
afr flat on 13.3

sounds different under throttle but no other tests performed

glenby wrote:bike is back. no ride as yet.
stats
126hp
92ft lbs torque.
afr flat on 13.3

sounds different under throttle but no other tests performed

Nice! So it's fixed then, By which place?

review and update on changes.
what's been done?
2011 naked bandit
front fork springs replaced with .95 racetechs, revalved by suspension improvements at slacks creek.
pcv + airbox + dna (bmc'esq) filter + secondaries removed, tuning by pro cycle dyno at slacks creek.
akropovic carbon pipe too somewhere in the early days.
pair system blocked off but still in place.

after a couple of test rides at fast/slow/stupid speeds on various types of roads here's my findings:
1. no pops burps etc from pair.
2. after suspension changes, I dont really notice the difference. a bit stiffer maybe. no greater feel and doesnt appear to be better handling (to me)
    there is no room for pre-load adjustment which isnt great but the guy said he would tweak if need be.
    He also said that if I had a front faring, it would be great but as it is , you just cant fix a naked bike to handle great.
3. noisier under throttle thanks to holes in airbox. not bad just more mechanical sounding than before.
4. air fuel mix is constant 13.4 - muffler is liking it as it is cleaner.
5. slightly increased fuel consumption (probably caused by throttle twisting  )
6. pulls like a train to redline, where it used to dip and lose a bit around 8.5k. gets to redline a little quicker too.
7. no oil leaks since waterpump seals replaced.
8. power delivery is a little different from 4k to 5k. once it hits 5k, the bike wants to get to 8k real quick.

The bike rides well, accelerates fantasically and is just plain great. while the comments may sound a bit clinical or negative, that is not the case.
I really love riding the bike. you just dont realise how good it is until you try something else....
I have found that I need more tread on the outsides of the pr3's so maybe a different set of tyres next time for up around peachester....

[b]so was the extra $2k in work and stuffing around worth it?[/b]
I think the secondaries have helped but the rest.... hmm not sure. how often do people get above 230?

I think that if I had the money and bike over again, I would probably stick with a decent pair of tyres, pipe for looks, braided lines and secondary removal and leave it at that (maybe get a semi fared one). The rest of it is... well, kinda unnecessary unless you want to do 250.

That being said, I will probably get a replacement rear shock to allow more configuration.

fwiw - with a dna air filter, airbox mods and pipe, the bike runs lean. so if you go that route, get a pc or a dobek thingy.

that's ma 2c

Oh yes, a front fairing will really sort the handling...

apparently a 5k weight on the front might help stabilise it over small bits. If I had a clue, maybe could say definitively.
as it stands, it's fairly handy.

glenby wrote:how often do people get above 230?

unnecessary unless you want to do 250.

Only when I can find a bit of straight of road!   

The best thing about a unrestricted + tuned 1250 is how the power is delivered!
And not so much about top speed, But how it gets there!

Reardo wrote:

glenby wrote:how often do people get above 230?
unnecessary unless you want to do 250.

Only when I can find a bit of straight of road!   
The best thing about a unrestricted + tuned 1250 is how the power is delivered!
And not so much about top speed, But how it gets there!

I've got an old 02 and by the speedo it gets above 250 every chance I get, Don't need a lot of straight road either.
I actually thought glenby meant 230 HP.
PS very envious of your improvements glenby

Hey Glenby.  Were you happy with the service and price at the Slacks Creek shop ?  I will need mine tweaked soon.

glenby wrote:apparently a 5k weight on the front might help stabilise it over small bits. If I had a clue, maybe could say definitively.
as it stands, it's fairly handy.

Extra weight up high on the front end is not a handling improvement. Otherwise MotoGP bikes would run headlights.

The only advantage of a fairing is aerodynamics at speed, but in the case of the Bandit, feedback suggests the fairing just creates buffering more than anything else.

Do you have a dyno chart?  Would be interested to see this and the map.

Cheers

[quote="Hammy"]Hey Glenby.  Were you happy with the service and price at the Slacks Creek shop ?  I will need mine tweaked soon.[/quote]

 Hammy,
 I really dont know. The guy is a bit opinionated but seemed like he was willing to tweak to suit my needs.
A mate who rides cbr's and aprila's said it handled like a dream, so maybe it is just me being a sook.

I prefer a slightly softer ride for the rougher roads and dont knee drag, so firmer suspension just feels a bit more harsh rather than responsive.

One day when I get a day off, if you wanted, you could take it for a quick spin to see whether you like his settings. he has a standard setting.

Reardo,
  you are definitely right in 'how' you get there.
I think the secondaries improved the pull all the way to the top.
As I had all the secondaries and pcv done at the same time, I dont know which did what.
I used to like the pull from 4k up. while that is still there, once you hit 5k it goes off and the grin is there all the way to redline.

It still looks pretty stock too, so the coppers didnt give it much of a look the other day near kenilworth when they pulled me over for breathaliser.
They were checking bikes out for defects but....

After Mods


[img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f33/18/45/09/29/dsc_0111.jpg[/img]

Before
[img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f33/18/45/09/29/dsc_0112.jpg[/img]

Before data - Baffle In. the figures were the almost identical to stock.
Baffle out data was extra 6hp + in the above image it is the higher lines.
[img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f33/18/45/09/29/dsc_0113.jpg[/img]

glenby wrote:

Hammy wrote:Hey Glenby.  Were you happy with the service and price at the Slacks Creek shop ?  I will need mine tweaked soon.

 Hammy,
 I really dont know. The guy is a bit opinionated but seemed like he was willing to tweak to suit my needs.
A mate who rides cbr's and aprila's said it handled like a dream, so maybe it is just me being a sook.

I prefer a slightly softer ride for the rougher roads and dont knee drag, so firmer suspension just feels a bit more harsh rather than responsive.

One day when I get a day off, if you wanted, you could take it for a quick spin to see whether you like his settings. he has a standard setting.

Sure thing Glenby.  We will have to meet up some time. Mine was done by the same guy at slacks creek. A rear Wlbers shock with full remote adjustment. It is sweet.   I rang Pro Cycle Dyno today for a " ball park " quote on a dyno tune and they told me $650 give or take.  I thought that seemed a bit steep.

glenby wrote:After Mods




Before


Before data - Baffle In. the figures were the almost identical to stock.
Baffle out data was extra 6hp + in the above image it is the higher lines.

Good number there mate.
Hows the Torque down low  

Hammy wrote:

glenby wrote:

Hammy wrote:Hey Glenby.  Were you happy with the service and price at the Slacks Creek shop ?  I will need mine tweaked soon.

I rang Pro Cycle Dyno today for a " ball park " quote on a dyno tune and they told me $650 give or take.  I thought that seemed a bit steep.

Shit $650 is car dyno figures!

Nice thing is that at no point is torque < stock , and it has actually filled in the hole around 5K.

So what is the going rate for Dyno time at the moment? Any quotes I have got in Sydney have been in the range of $600+.
Can anyone recommend a good shop?

Can tell you where to get it done in Canberra for $350 if you want,

Dekenai wrote:Can tell you where to get it done in Canberra for $350 if you want,

 That sounds more like it. Send me a PM.

I got mine done at Lush Racing in Victor Harbor for $350.

just a run on the dyno, used to cost me $35. 
Before the last changes,  I rang around and also checked for horror stories and dyno tune themselves.
They have certified installers and tuners. Rollies, pro-cycle, speedies and a couple of others in greater brisbane are certified.

Suzuki at kingston have a dyno as well and a rough guess by sales man was around $1000 for supply and install.
Other places will install a PCV and generic map for cheaper.

Why did I try pro-cycle?
price about the same, certified and they specialise in speed and bike tuning. (one of their bikes has 300hp - turbo fitted)
The head guy is ex-suzuki mechanic as well.

I have done around 1000ks on it since, no leaks, hunting or anything other than good stuff.
Would I say they are any better than any other place? no idea. Better than holeshot settings? no idea.

Nice guys, rev heads and work on a wide range of bikes. Interested in the bike and the performance, not just a sale.
Still in business, so cant be all bad. They also checked how it ran off dyno and did some other minor tweaks.

For a pcv + secondaries removal + airfilter and box mod + dyno tune around $950

alternative:
According to pro-cycle, they have checked and the PCV auto-tune is within a whisker of a good tune when it has
settled (a couple of mins of running after install) but if you aint changing your bike, then becomes something that just hangs around.
In the end it may be cheaper than a dyno tune custom mapping or if you plan to twiddle with your bike later.