Devils work

First topic message reminder :

I couldnt help it ! I know i'm weak ,the devil made me do it .I pulled them OUT.
Extraction tool please.

3 mins later

Handy hint: After pulling airbox back,insert 2 bolts in holes and attach to occky strap to keep it pulled back out of the way.

What songs do the Shims sing?

The only drawback with taking out the secondaries is then you are gonna want to do something else?

Like suspension mods! .................... ?

I took my secondary's out last weekend which was a job I had not looked forward to. I researched, got the #0 screwdriver but not a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) one which I had heard was quite important. Also I used a 60w soldering iron on each screw for about 4 to 5 minutes each and stripped the heads on the first 3. Bugger, so I got the drill out and drilled them away ensuring that all swarf was cleaned up. Funnily with all that the job went as I thought. I am no mechanic you see!
After all this I put the bike back together and she started perfectly. I believe she revs quicker when you blip the throttle from idle. I took her out I clearly recognized an engine that revved with more freedom especially after 5k where she appeared to pull stronger. I also had removed the snorkel from the air box a week prior. These two engine mod’s are, in my view, a positive thing to do. Regarding fuel consumption I have nothing yet to offer as it raining and I can use a wussy car. I read on one forum that these secondary butterflies can close by as much as 30% when over 6k, these seems a little high but if they are part of the emissions control for the European market than maybe.
Other add ons and tweaks are a Yoshi exhaust, Gi ATRE, radiator gauard, dropped the forks 10 mm and trimmed the undertray.

Its strange that some people have trouble getting the screws out , yet i had no trouble at all .Having to drill them out scared me for some strange
reason ,its just a drill .Anyway they all came out no problem at all .I only put heat (80w) on the head of the screw for about 60 sec.each so if
JohnPom heated them for 5 mins each the magic part has to be the SCREWDRIVER.

I keep saying it but at $8.00 BUY A NEW ONE.

You will see how good a fit this screwdriver is .The head of the screw is tiny , yet the screwdriver stay's in place unaided ( its 70mm off the table )



Now hopefully the helpfull part .This is whats written on the handle.No idea if its a JIS .Bought at the auto shop Car Lovers i think.The bigger the handle the better .In fact that might have a lot to do with it. As well as being positive when you "crack open " the first one. After that youve got the "feal" for the rest of them.


Scew still hanging on.

Yep your screwdriver is the same physical size as the new one I got for the job at Bunning's. Because my soldering iron was only 60w that's why I gave it a long time although on reflection I wonder if that helped cause my problem.
Drilling it was a scarey thing the drill bit was a 2.5 which was about the perfect size for the screws. I knew before I started the job that I wouldn't be able to go back if I had to drill them without paying for someone to fix it.

Still the logic for the benefit of removing them made sense to me and I'm glad I did it.

There is a scary word in there "Bunning's"

Has the screwdriver got a brand name on it ? Better still how much was it.?
Own up if it was $2

If you got it from carlovers then my guess is it will be a normal phillips and the pic on the handle (the cross) looks like it is a phillips (by the little angle bit between the lines) not a JIC/JIS. BUt my eyes could be playing tricks on me.

If it is a phillips then IMO you did all right as the difference can cause the screw head to chew up.
I think the heat trick is the bit that counts as well as the screwdriver. At 60 seconds you would have heated the thread locking compound (I'd expect something like 271 or similar is used) up enough to degrade it somewhat but at 5 mins I recon the screw itself might have swelled enough to start sticking in the shaft.
I wouldn't have thought the difference in heat output between 60w and 80w irons to be that substantial, the recovery time would be better tho.

See here for some info on screw heads

After doing some reading there is no way what i used is a JIS screwdriver .Just a good fit and a bit of luck i guess.
There are some guys who fly large model Helicopters where we walk the dog.Next time i see them i'll ask what they use.

I used a repco screwing stick but I brought one of their 80w soldiering irons. Most of the screws came loose with a pop, but a couple went mushy.

Just apply heat again and really push hard inwards on the srew head as you twist it.

Now Helicopter screws could be another thing altogether.

The weapons of choice



The evidence of the crime

Yes, I confess. My #0 Bunnings screwdriver was made by Fuller. The Stanley one that I was after had sold out and due to my impatience I got the Fuller one for $7 or $8.
When I tried to remove the screws and could tell that the screwdriver wasn't fitting 100% so it is no surprise that I failed in that area.
Some people are strong academically or practically, I'm neither!

I'm really surprised Repco sold an 80 w iron .Can you just check what is written around the top of the handle Jaba.
if you had a chisel tip you would get more heat quicker which i think is what you want .
Just goes to show two screwdrivers ,both "0" one brand fits snug,the other loose . Makes it hard when you carnt take the screw in .
An 80w iron used to cost $100 if they are still that price you woulld be better off getting me to post mine down.

seems like everyone knows what the screwdriver is meant to be but no-one gets that specific one. I have rung a few stores near me (SA) and keep getting a negative, does anyone know where to actually get one?

No , but that SP brand i use (see pic a few posts back ) never felt it was going to
fail .The fit into the screw head was PERFECT.$8

2010banditsa wrote:seems like everyone knows what the screwdriver is meant to be but no-one gets that specific one. I have rung a few stores near me (SA) and keep getting a negative, does anyone know where to actually get one?

I just ordered these Genuine Japanese Industrial Standard Screwdriver Set.

I bought a set from ebay after the head of the jewellers screw driver got stuck in the screw. Spewing I has to dril it out

Comes down to right tool for the job, and don't compensate by using vice grips like I did. Althought the vice grip I used would be lucky to be 3". Lesson learned

I am seriously thinking about flying Gus down to Sydney for the day to rip out my secondaries.

Just make sure you get him searched at the airport for Bark & spray cans first !

It would be cheaper for me to post you the screwdriver .

gus wrote:It would be cheaper for me to post you the screwdriver .

I have so many ff miles gus due to work it would still be free

thanks Reardo, i reckon i will get a set of them.

Did my secondaries this afternoon. only taken it for a short lep but the bike seems a bit free'er and exhaust note has a bit my groul up high in the rev range. i think the only downside i could feel straight away is the loss of a bit of engine braking. Going for a ride tomorrow so i will see how it goes

Holdenman: I felt the same with regards to engine braking. Not that it's too bad, not like a 2 stroke with no engine brake what so ever.

Gus. You do actually ride the bike sometimes do you?

I have been known to ride it ,once i got into second gear . Actually i had a small op. so no riding allowed .Got to fill the day in .

Kaupy1962 wrote:Gus. You do actually ride the bike sometimes do you?

He does but before your time he refused to stop for petrol lol (search it)

I did 50,000 kls in two year on the Aprilia which is why i bought the Bandit . With the price of fuel now, trips have got less ,and shorter .

You will need the words "pushing it " to put into the search box Kaupy.