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Devils work

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Post  gus Sun 13 Mar 2011, 2:47 pm

I couldnt help it ! I know i'm weak ,the devil made me do it .I pulled them OUT.
Extraction tool please.
Devils work IMG_1739
3 mins later
Devils work IMG_1741
Handy hint: After pulling airbox back,insert 2 bolts in holes and attach to occky strap to keep it pulled back out of the way.
Devils work IMG_1742
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Post  Reardo Sun 13 Mar 2011, 3:11 pm

Good job gus.
How hard was it to get the little screws out?

Oh and Lovely dress u have there gus, is that the one from Mardi Gras lol!
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Post  gus Sun 13 Mar 2011, 3:23 pm

HOw hard was it to do ? Surprisingly easy
What special tool do i need ? Size "0" JIC phillips head $8(get a new one ) Soldering Iron ,i used 80 w .(med.size)
How hard were the screws to get out ? EASY
What was the hardest part ? Getting the throttle cables off and on. Not hard just Fiddly
How long did it take ? Maybe 2 hours ,i took my time,hell i even read the manual .If i did it again 1 hour.
Could i reverse the procedure if i didnt like it ? YES
Can you still wear that dress again ? I hope so,


Last edited by gus on Sun 13 Mar 2011, 4:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Dekenai Sun 13 Mar 2011, 3:25 pm

and then.......
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Post  gus Sun 13 Mar 2011, 3:48 pm

THE BIGGEST QUESTION OF ALL: DOES IT GO ANY BETTER?? YES IT DOES !!!!!!

This is how you get rid of the "D" for dull in BANDIT (Do you like that bit of script Very Happy )

Pick up is better ,motor felt alive .I thought pick up was better through the whole rev range ,and i didnt get to 7 grand. It started raining.
I could feel no down side . Before it would take off at about 4.5 revs now it just accelerates straight through.

If anyone wants to talk to me personally about this mod P.M me and i give you my Phone number

How to get the heat on the screws is a bit hard to explain here. Those little cheap 25 w ones dont generate enough heat,buy leaving it on
the screw longer is just heating the whole assembly .You want a HOT iron for a short period of time.You may get them out with out heat .I used it.
Dont be put off, the job is a lot easier than you think.

small print: results may vary from bike to bike.
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Post  Reardo Sun 13 Mar 2011, 4:27 pm

THE BIGGEST QUESTION OF ALL?
^^^^^^^for me is, does it need to be remapped.
I've asked it on a couple of forums got 50/50 yes/no answer.
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Post  2wheelsagain Sun 13 Mar 2011, 4:33 pm

If I can find a similar dress can you come and do mine then?
Some feedback after a "tour" would be nice including economy Gus.
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Post  gus Sun 13 Mar 2011, 5:23 pm

I'll go for a run tomorrow and pull a plug to see how the colour is.Remember i have stock air filter so i'm thinking should be O'k. I'm not going
more air through filter ,more air without secondaries ,more air with 2" hole in air box.
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Post  gus Mon 14 Mar 2011, 5:24 pm

Small 100kl run today.Still feels better.Motor spins up easier and better throttle response.Pulled a plug, looks like this.A bit more tan in real life
Any one like to read this plug. Looks good to me
Devils work IMG_1757
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Post  Reardo Mon 14 Mar 2011, 8:29 pm

Looks good to me
Devils work Sparkc10
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Post  Freeway Mon 14 Mar 2011, 10:24 pm

I'm not one to say I told you so Gus ............ !

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Post  jaba01 Sun 20 Mar 2011, 1:15 am

Well Gus............how is the bike running without the secondaries?

All I have to do to open my bike up to Dale Walkers stage 2 is pull out the secondaires / Open the airbox some more & turn the dials on the Dobeck fuel box to the correct settings............ but I've been too lazy to get the throttle bodies off to remove the little buggers.

Do you reakon it's worth the effort, going by how your bike rides now?
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Post  gus Sun 20 Mar 2011, 7:22 am

More than happy. Not sure about fuel consumption ,its bound to be more because i'm having more fun if you know what i mean . The K@N filter mod,
alone didnt work for me but this did .This is the only motor mod i have (apart from can )so i carnt comment on what it would be like with the 2" hole ECt
I think what put me off doing the job at first was i thought i might stuff it up .People talking about drilling the screws out turned me off the job.
With the right size phillips head and a soldering iron it was straight forward .If you can take a spark plug out you can do this. And it reversible.
Bigger smile for me ,and isnt that what its all about. Now if we can just get someone with a stock motor to take theirs out for a second opinion.
I will post them the soldering iron and screwdriver.(seriously )
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Post  2010banditsa Tue 22 Mar 2011, 4:30 pm

would love to do this, but just can not bring myself to until the engine warranty runs out- 12 months to go.
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Post  Saikhan Tue 22 Mar 2011, 11:13 pm

2010banditsa wrote:would love to do this, but just can not bring myself to until the engine warranty runs out- 12 months to go.

+1 Smile
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Post  holdenman Wed 23 Mar 2011, 9:33 am

Im Thinking about it Gus. Just got to have time to do it and at the moment i have no time to myself
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Post  gus Wed 23 Mar 2011, 9:34 am

You know where i live. Very Happy 1hr i reckon
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Post  kewwig Thu 24 Mar 2011, 6:56 pm

gus wrote:What special tool do i need ? Size "0" JIC phillips head $8(get a new one ) Soldering Iron ,i used 80 w .(med.size)
How hard were the screws to get out ? EASY

Hi

I plan to do this mod shortly (already Stage 1 Holeshot), but am struggling to find a JIC #0 in New Zealand. Where did you get yours?

Cheers
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Post  gus Fri 25 Mar 2011, 9:12 am

A decent auto shop. I'm not sure the one i used was the JIC one as it had no markings.
It was size"0" and was a real nice snug fit in the screw head .The screwdriver
stayed in place when i let it go ,the bigger the handle the better.
It was like get pressure on the screw head then a quick "snap " with the wrist.
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Post  kewwig Fri 25 Mar 2011, 6:43 pm

Thanks. What size are the screws across the head? I have some small screws with the dot by the head that apparently indicates a JIS fastener, so I may use one as a 'fit" when I hunt for a good screwdriver
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Post  gus Fri 25 Mar 2011, 8:13 pm

4mm diam. head\ 2.5 dia thread
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Post  kewwig Fri 25 Mar 2011, 8:30 pm

Thanks mate. How do you find the low speed running? Mine, whether standard or in Stage 1 Dale Walker trim still bucks on the overrun at low speeds - almost like a slack chain, so I end up pulling in the clutch fairly early. Balanced the throttle bodies, but still present. Everyone talks of smooth running after removing the secondaries, but is it smooth at the bottom?

Cheers
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Post  gus Fri 25 Mar 2011, 9:48 pm

Very smooth.Mine did do that untill Holdenman Balanced t\bodies and adjusted TP sensor. Go into TB balance \sync page 2 Mechanical
Mine used to be on,off,on,off on a closed thottle ,adjust tps.
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Post  kewwig Mon 28 Mar 2011, 7:10 pm

I got into it on the weekend and replaced the front discs, did the TPS by hand (you are right, it was fiddly has hell, but got it from the usual _C00 to -C00), and restored it it Dale Walker Stage 1 specs. I forgot how much more the thing accelerates. It's a lot smoother, and the next chance I get, it's getting the secondaries pulled, Morgan Carbtune balanced and the airbox opened up even further . It's got a BMC filter, Yoshi TRS, PAIR plugged, Dobeck TFI, airbox mod and GiPro. Once I stage II it, it'll be due its 24K valve service, so I'll get it put on the SDS to check the TPS. It's like a new bike.

It's funny how the factory manual and Haynes manual mention nothing about the _C00 versus -C00, just saying C00 means no faults.

I recommend Dale's tuning box if you already have a pipe and filter. It livens things up A LOT.
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Post  jaba01 Sun 24 Apr 2011, 12:21 am

I did it............. ripped them out...&........opened up the airbox a bit more.

Yes it pulls harder & cleaner with no apparent lose of low down !

A bit on edge hoping that all the screws would come out ok. Heat (80w) & #0 screw driver & lots of pressure bearing down on those screw heads as you twist them!

Now I can sleep @ night again not having the should I or shouldn't I hanging over me! Smile
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