1250 maladies

First topic message reminder :

Thanks for all the help I got from just introducing myself on the "Newbie"  forum.

I just got this '07 1250S ("S", I think, because it came with the fairing ?)

The PO removed the PAIR with the TPO kit, but didn't install a resistor.
I still have to do that, where do you get the resistor ?

I had the bike 4 days and it wouldn't start, "No Spark". I bought it "NOT running". Since I don't play the lottery, this is my form of "Gambling"...

After I removed the PC3, the Fl light kept flashing. I jumped the wires and it said C-23 (Tip-Over sensor) so I finally found the TO Sensor, and the PO installed it upside down so I just set it upright on top of the battery and BAM, she fired-up !!

That was a relief to hear it run.

I have it running, although barely, the #1 and 2 cylinders are not firing.
I warmed it up a little to change the oil and filter and the two left pipes didn't get hot like the other 2 cylinders.
I will try new plugs first, it had the Iridium NGK's but I will replace them with a set CR7E
It won't run if you let go of the grip.
It will idle though down to 800 rpms, but when you let go of the grip it stalls.

The fuel pump is running even with the key OFF. I completely emptied the tank and added 2.2 US Gal. of fresh 93 octane fuel
Every time I shut the engine off I have to unplug the fuel pump.

So NEXT on the list:
Get cylinders 1 and 2 firing, and find out why the fuel pump keeps running.
Oh I need that resistor too.

Otherwise everything seems to be OK except the PO "Ratted-Out" the bike to make it look like it was in the movie "Mad Max"
He Hacked off the bottom of the Fairing (it looks like he us ed a hacksaw)and otherwise made it look like trash.
It does have almost NEW Bridgestone's on it.
I picked it up for less then $500, with a clear Florida title. I transferred the title today

I'm gonna resurrect it to it's former "Glory" !!
It only has 12k mi. on it too.

Thanks for your help SBA Forum !!

Ride Safe !!
captbruce

Still running GREAT !!
You gotta love it...
captbruce

Just rewards - you deserve it.

I topped up, for the first time, with 3.1 US Gal. and 100 miles on the odometer.
The fuel pump LCD just started flashing, with one fuel bar showing.
I calculated in my head, 33 miles per gallon.

Does that sound right to you guys ??

I get 45 MPG on the 650R Ninja.

I guess performance comes at a cost.

I hope it's not excessive consumption cause the bike is running SO GOOD !!
Still better than my truck, 15 MPG.

captbruce

On the Drake ride I averaged around 45 mpg US

Great little tool for converting fuel consumption figures for various countries

link

On the Drake ride I was averaging 5lt/100 or 47mpg (us)

Yours works out at 7.1, not woeful if you going hard, but I'd be concerned if that was a leisurely cruise!

I didn't check mine on the Drake ride, but I consistently get about 5.1l/100 km. just a little more than MM is saying above.
My stead is the "06" air cooled carbied 1200 that you lot in the good ole U.S. Of A didn't get

I consistently get about 48 - 53 mpg (imperial gallons not US gallons).

Ewok1958 wrote:I consistently get about 48 - 53 mpg (imperial gallons not US gallons).

In that case yours is worse that captbruce

Thanks, guys.
45-48 US miles/Gal sounds good. I expect it to be more than my 650 Ninja.
I figured about 40 MPG
Now I am concerned.

I was not driving hard.
But it was around town. Not on  the highway.
I guess I'll check the plugs for a rich condition, but it's running so good.
I don't smell a rich condition.

Maybe I didn't fill it up to the right level ? before or after...
Or somehow I messed up.
I hope that's the case.

I will top-up again soon, meanwhile check the plugs.
And the crankcase too.

captbruce

Yes its easy to mess it up if you don't fill to exactly the same point each time, not an easy task on the bandit tank.

Don't worry about mpg. Drop to a 17 tooth front sprocket and utilise the right wrist. Wheel in the air says happy days to me

If you want fuel economy buy a VW diesel

3 months and still running strong !!
I sold the Ninja.

Still getting only 33 MPG.
I took my time and measured the fill accurately.
Same pump, centerstand and filled to same spot on the tank.
No biggie !!
I have been fishing almost everyday, and haven't had time to check the plugs or see what MAP is in the PCIII.
I still love the bike.

I'm working on getting a front fairing.
It's an eBay deal and the guy might want to swap for a fishing trip.
Front fairing, 2 side frame covers, and entire front forks, with trees, for a $800 fishing trip.

I hope all is well with the Forum.
My Best to you all.
captbruce

Bartering at it's best!

Sounds like a good deal your way to me. Good luck.

OK...
The bike seems to run great but the fuel consumption is high (33mpg)
I finally got some time to look into the seemingly high fuel consumption 

I pulled the #1 and #4 plugs
They look like it's running a bit rich. These plugs have 1000 mi on them.




I thought some fuel might be going into the crankcase so Ichecked the oil level and it seems to have risen above the upper mark, so I let about 6-8 oz. and brought the level 1/2 way between low and the high mark.
The oil didn't smell like gas but it did smell like it had been in the crankcase. I changed the oil and filter when I got the bike in Jan 14, the oil has 1000 mi. also.




I cleaned the 2 plugs and put the crankcase bolt back in and decided to consult the Forum.

What thinketh the Forum ?

captbruce

What fuel are you running mate?
We'll need to compare your juice to ours
The plugs do look sooty though. Whats the air cleaner like?

If you are doing mainly short runs, it will seem like it's running rich.  The bike has an enrichening idle when first started, so short trips will increase oil volume due to condensation and make the plugs a bit sooty.  The plugs should be NGK CR7E or ND U22-ESR N (check the PO hasn't fitted cold ones).

The best way to check a plug is during a decent ride at full operating temperature, having killed the engine first with the kill switch.  Anything else can give you odd results.

As 2WA says, check the air filter.  There's not much you can do to alter the mixture if running standard setup, but I don't know if you have the PowerCommander on and set up properly.

You won't get gas in the crankcase on an injected bike like you can on an older one with a leaking fuel tap or stuck floats.  The bike has to be running to pump gas.  People often overfill the bikes with oil.

I'm glad to hear, fuel can't get to the oil.
I bought a Ninja one time with a crankcase FULL of fuel from a leaky float valve.

I run regular unleaded 89 octane.
Should I be using a higher octane (91 or 93) ??

The bike IS used for short jaunts, and our humidity here in Key West, Florida USA is "tropical" and always around 80+%.

The bike has a PCIII, but I have not gotten my laptop to read the PCIII, so I can see what MAP it is using.
I think I need another USB cable.
I meant to do that is January, when I got the bike.
I have been very busy with my charter fishing business, but the season is winding down, and I will have more time to spend on the bike.
I will balance the TB's soon too.

The plugs were NEW CR7E's the bike came with the almost new NGK Iridium 9's (??), maybe I show put them back in for a more complete burn ?

The bike came with POD's on the TB's, and would never idle right till I replaced the stock airbox. The installed a K&N filter and I  cut the lid off the cover.
I removed the secondary BF's while I was at it.

I credit the SBA Forum for all the things I done to the bike to get it running.
I bought the bike "Not Running"

Thanks for all your help.

Gotta go fishing !!
captbruce

Gday captain. My 2cents here is balance the throttle bodies and then take the bike to be tuned properly at a reputable mc shop in your area. Then it's guaranteed to be as good as it can be. If you ask for an economy map and a power map you can have the best of both worlds and swap them with a laptop and the power commander software as you please. My bike runs fine on 91, 98 gets better economy though, but you pay a premium for the fuel so no better off I reckon

I finally returned to my summer home and got to work on the Bandit.
I repaired a cracked fairing from eBay. (I used West System 105 epoxy and woven cloth).  I faired it with Bondo sanded with 320 and put a gloss Black paint job (Spray bomb) on it and it looks super !! I haven't buffed it yet I'll wait another week for the paint to cure.

I went to replace the fork seals while I was at it but the upper tubes are too bad with pitting, so I need new upper tubes. I put new brake pads on the front and I wire brushed the front wheel and re-primed and sprayed flat black.



Here's a close-up



Hope all is well with you guys downunder.

Ride Safe !!
captbruce

Looking good mate ...............& yes my downunder is just fine and dandy thank you for asking   

Mate, I think you've resurrected a beast from the dead - hope you're not into witchcraft! Well done.

Looks like you are a man of many talents. Great job. 
Radiator guard needs to be on your shopping list, too.

Pics of the tubes would be good. It'd its just the part of the tube between the clamps I'd attack it with some rust converter first and then tape that part and slip the new seals over top after spraying the tape with something like wd40.

I've had luck in the past on old dirt bikes fixing pitted chrome with super glue and then lightly rubbing back with fine emery

Thanks for your kind words.

I scoured all the pits with Bronze wool, knocking down the chrome that had "lifted".

I  have the seals. I just didn't want to waste $20 if the divots ruined the new seal.
Plus I couldn't find a good pictorial "how-to" on the forum or the web.

These forks are more complicated to take apart then any others I've worked with too.
I don't think I'll need up-graded springs or valves either, especially if the fork tubes are iffy.
Are there other parts that might need replacing while I'm in there (Shims ?)

The tubes are $287 each from Suzi, but I found them here in the US for $280 a pair
from a specialty machine shop. "Franks" ??

Then new springs and valves add another$300, and my local shop wants $60 per leg,
plus seals you are talking $700

If that aint enough to inspire me. I'm gonna try to "fair" the pits, and install a new seal on my left fork.
It's the only one that's leaking right now.

Reddog thanks for the inspiration !
You guys are the BEST !!

captbruce