1250 maladies

Thanks for all the help I got from just introducing myself on the "Newbie"  forum.

I just got this '07 1250S ("S", I think, because it came with the fairing ?)

The PO removed the PAIR with the TPO kit, but didn't install a resistor.
I still have to do that, where do you get the resistor ?

I had the bike 4 days and it wouldn't start, "No Spark". I bought it "NOT running". Since I don't play the lottery, this is my form of "Gambling"...

After I removed the PC3, the Fl light kept flashing. I jumped the wires and it said C-23 (Tip-Over sensor) so I finally found the TO Sensor, and the PO installed it upside down so I just set it upright on top of the battery and BAM, she fired-up !!

That was a relief to hear it run.

I have it running, although barely, the #1 and 2 cylinders are not firing.
I warmed it up a little to change the oil and filter and the two left pipes didn't get hot like the other 2 cylinders.
I will try new plugs first, it had the Iridium NGK's but I will replace them with a set CR7E
It won't run if you let go of the grip.
It will idle though down to 800 rpms, but when you let go of the grip it stalls.

The fuel pump is running even with the key OFF. I completely emptied the tank and added 2.2 US Gal. of fresh 93 octane fuel
Every time I shut the engine off I have to unplug the fuel pump.

So NEXT on the list:
Get cylinders 1 and 2 firing, and find out why the fuel pump keeps running.
Oh I need that resistor too.

Otherwise everything seems to be OK except the PO "Ratted-Out" the bike to make it look like it was in the movie "Mad Max"
He Hacked off the bottom of the Fairing (it looks like he us ed a hacksaw)and otherwise made it look like trash.
It does have almost NEW Bridgestone's on it.
I picked it up for less then $500, with a clear Florida title. I transferred the title today

I'm gonna resurrect it to it's former "Glory" !!
It only has 12k mi. on it too.

Thanks for your help SBA Forum !!

Ride Safe !!
captbruce

Now that's a bargain,  Capt. 
We're all dying to see some pictures.    
With a little time and effort, I'm sure that you will have a great bike that you will be proud off and enjoy.

Check if the PO wired the pump direct to the battery instead of going through the ignition switch

I still can't post pix yet.

I changed the plugs, no different.
#1-2 not firing.
I swapped the coils no difference.
It's not the plugs or coils.
I have to check and make sure #1-2 are firing otherwise it might be the #1-2 injectors.


The #1 plug was wet, but the #2 was dry and looks like it has never fired, since it was installed.
#3 and 4 had carbon, and look too rich.

The whirring from the fuel pump, stopped, when I cycled the ignition key on/off today. It no longer pumps when the key is on.
I noticed when the pump was acting up, (running with the key off)
the odometer mileage would stay on for about 5 seconds and flash FI where the mileage was and kept cycling like that.
Now that the pump seems to have fixed itself the odometer mileage stays on and I don't see the FL flashing.
I still unplug the fuel pump connector. until I know I can trust it to stay OFF.

I have kept so busy with other things, my time on the bike is limited.
Luckily I have a Ninja to ride.

I'm working on getting that resistor for the PAIR removal.
After I get it running good I might put the PCIII back on.
But first things first.
captbruce

You can get a resistor from any electrical parts shop ,you just need the right one .I did post the code number here once i'll see if I can find it again ,or read the one on the bike .

Little brass thing reads , 10w 330ohm xo5%

Check the efi joiners to the plugs , are they connected to the right plug cap and the hole (4) not reversed . They all should have a rectangle rubber
seal in them to stop corrosion .They tend to fall out when your not looking .

Finally !! It just seems to take me longer than most...
Gus you were on the right track...

I took both spark plugs 1 and 2 out and they were firing (had spark), so when I was putting them back I noticed the lead to the #2 plug had a weird bend to it and the lead looked too long.
Then I tried the #1 lead and it was barely long enough to reach and clip.
So I took them both off and straighten out the wire loom where it looked proper and connected them properly and she "purred like a kitten".

The PO had the 1 and 2 leads switched.

What a relief !!

Now it's idling about 600 warmed up) and it seems too low.
When I twist it slightly to 1000-1200 it purrs.
How do you adjust the idle ??
I looked high and low.

Tomorrow I'll test her out, and do a plug exam cause the 3 and 4 were looking rich.
captbruce

captbruce wrote:Finally !! It just seems to take me longer than most...
Gus you were on the right track...

I took both spark plugs 1 and 2 out and they were firing (had spark), so when I was putting them back I noticed the lead to the #2 plug had a weird bend to it and the lead looked too long.
Then I tried the #1 lead and it was barely long enough to reach and clip.
So I took them both off and straighten out the wire loom where it looked proper and connected them properly and she "purred like a kitten".

The PO had the 1 and 2 leads switched.

What a relief !!

Now it's idling about 600 warmed up) and it seems too low.
When I twist it slightly to 1000-1200 it purrs.
How do you adjust the idle ??
I looked high and low.

Tomorrow I'll test her out, and do a plug exam cause the 3 and 4 were looking rich.
captbruce

Great to hear!

Yep, always start with the simple stuff!

No idle knob, its non adjustable (and painful) I'm probably wrong but it may take the ecu a time to learn the new idle now that plug issue is sorted .
It may just need a ride to settle it all in .

Well done Bruce!
$500 to buy.
A few hours to sort out.
If you priced your time at $200/hr, you'd still call it a cheap bike.
Scored!  

gus wrote:.... it may take the edu a time to learn the new idle now that plug issue is sorted...

Gus, maybe, or a sensor?
From what Capn Bruce has told us, the PO unplugged a lot of stuff and had no idea of what to plug back in to where.
Ideas...
1. Run it as you suggest, see how that goes.
2. Check all connectors to sensors - TPS ok? Is there a crank position sensor on the 1250? Crank position is an input for idle setting, no?
3. Disconnect the battery for an hour - not much info on Bandit ECU's, but maybe (maybe) it will reset to factory (10% chance, bike ECU apparently not usually 'learning' ECU like those in cars).

Still a lot of bike for not much money!

Just ride it. The idle should come good. The idle control runs off the vacuum tubes from the throttle bodies, it should relearn the right value

It did seem the Bike was learning, how to idle.
The last few times I started it all I had to do was hit the button, without my hand on being on the throttle.
NICE !!
Every once in a while, I'd just walk by putting tools away and just mash the button and she'd "fire-up".
Life's Good... Praise God !!

I'll do some test runs today and photo the plugs results.
I put the NGK CR7E back in after I took the Iridium's out.

All evening and even this morning, I can't help but kinda get giddy, with how elated I am that it's running.

I never put the PC3 back on.
One strand of wire was broken on the TPS, where the PC3 connected.
Maybe the bare section should be coated with solder, before I re-connect the PC3.
Who knows what kinda MAP he has in the PC3.
He did give me the instructions and the CD-ROM software, but no USB connector.
The USB connector looks pretty generic though

I owe a lot to you SBA guys being on the web, including the UK boys and the TWT's too.
Thanks to all.
and Thanks, to Al Gore too, for creating this here "Inter-Web"...

I've had the tank off and on at least twenty times since I got the bike last Saturday.
I have inspected everything, and reattached the wire harness to the frame in places. The ATP (?) (under the tank, behind #4 cylinder), was hanging, by it's wires and distorting the thin rubber (vacuum) hose.

The TPO was installed upside down. That was the main culprit as to why it wouldn't start. I still can't find the tab it hangs from. It looks like the battery tray was removed, probably to get the airbox out. The rear screws to hold down the battery box were never replaced either.

Oh Yeah... The odometer is still flashing FI, every 5 seconds or so.
The red FI light is still on too.
I'm on the search of that resistor, Gus mentioned: 10W 330ohm xo5%
Maybe I'll try Radio Shack today too.

Thanks again SBA forum.

Ride Safe,
captbruce

Sorry if someone posted it, But is the flashing FI light got to do with the o2 censer bypass (used with PC3 or PC5) still in place without the PC?

Sorry, still can't post pixs yet. I guess it takes 7 days.

OK, I put 10 miles on the bike and here are the plugs

I see NO Carbon at all and they look good to me so I put them right back in.
I didn't put the Iridiums back in, that came with the bike.

The fuel pump started coming on again with the key off and I traced it to a shorted Fuel Pump relay.
I found it under the right side cover but I think it (and the fan relay) are supposed to hang each side of the starter Relay/Fuse just forward of the battery.
The Relays were hanging in space, upside down, by the wires, and both the Fan relay and the Pump relay showed signs of corrosion with green/blue deposits all over the terminals. I cleaned them both, but the pump relay was shorted out, so for now I swapped the good Fan relay and plugged it into the Fuel Pump connector.

I found a replacemant on FeeBay for $9 including shipping.

I just wish the idle was higher...
It's idleing at 600 and it lopes.
Do you think I should try to re-install the PCIII.
What could it hurt ??  Maybe I'll do it tomorrow...

It ran GREAT I just wish it idled higher.

I loosened the chain a bit, aired up the tires, scraped more of the silicone sealer off.
Luckily it's coming off with no damage and the original paint shines like new with "Ice" polish.
captbruce

Be sure to take plenty of before and after pics, so we can see them when you get to post.

You might want to synchronise the throttlebodies whilst you are seeing these weird idle issues.

I wouldn't add the PC3 until you have the bike running well, or you are just adding an unknown onto a problem.

A lugging idle can occur when the air screws are screwed in too far.  While I wouldn't expect it on a standard bike, who knows what has been done to yours!  I have reproduced a lugging idle setting the throttle bodies in the past.  Well worth balancing them as Reddog suggests.  If they are all over the place, screw the number 2 in till it seats then back it out 1.5 turns and sync the rest to that.  There's a how to sticky on the site.

Each day I keep trying to post a pix.
Here's the bike the day I got her.



The bike looks quite a bit cleaner/neater and nicer now. (I had it one week)
I finally removed the last bit of rusty bailing wire yesterday.
He probably used 5 pounds of bailing wire (just for effect... I wasn't holding anything together)
Probably added more weight then he removed with the PAIR removal.

Waiting on two new side fairings. The left was missing and the right was beyond my ability to de-gunk

I'm waiting for my wife to bring my manifold gauges, (sync the TB's) from my garage.
She'll be here in Key West, on Feb 2nd. I only stay in KW from Dec. till July for the fishing Season.
Most of my tools are at my other home.

Today, I'm going solder a resistor for the PAIR removal.
Search the engine, for any vacuum leaks. (try to get the idle up a bit, although I was thinking a vacuum leak would make it idle higher then usual)

I have a noticeable exhaust leak I think on #2 or 3
I waiting on 4 new exhaust gaskets (FeeBay)
Maybe that could be why it's idling so low ?

captbruce

I'm guessing the PO's name was "Bozo".

The PO is a writer (Novels).
I think he was going for an artistic statement.
Like it was Art or something...
Nice enough guy but he got in over his head.

What I thought was an exhaust leak was the left side PAIR block Plate was loose and it was, bypassing, so I tightened all the bolts in fact he mixed Allen heads hex bolts. I mean he gave me the bag that the TPO PAIR Block kit, came in so I know he had all the right hardware to start with !!??

Anyway that's all fixed, now I don't need the exhaust rings.
I didn't want to loose all that coolant anyway. 
Maybe now the EMU will set the idle better for me.
I did manage to get the idle to 800, just by playing with the adjustment nuts at the lower end of the cables.
It does idle a little faster and does not want to stall as easily.
Also, it reduced the rattle noise in the clutch basket too.
If I bring it up with the grip to 1000 it purrs !!

I'm seriously thinking of putting the PCIII back on.
Only after I get the FI light to extinguish.
I tried a 10W 100ohm 10% but it stayed lit.
Do I have to clear the ECU or something ??
Maybe disconnect it for a while, and let it re-boot. ??

It's a labor of LOVE !!

captbruce

I haven't seen you mention whether you have checked (as Reardo mentioned earlier) the O2 Bypass, if the PO messed arround with other things so much, there is a good chance he screwed up the O2.  

From memory the PC-III installation provides for a little (white ?) module to be inserted instead of the the OEM sensor to trick the ECU into thinking the O2 is putting out a constant signal, if you have the PC-III disconnected this module (if it was inserted, or inserted correctly, and that's a big if in your case) could be causing the FI light.  

There was a link on here a while back (plus other info on TWT and the UK site) that mentioned issues with O2 Bypass modules.

Thanks for reminding me.
I did look under the exhaust collector and the O2 sensor was still there and a wire going to it, I did not check the wiring toward the harness to see if he installed the
O2 bypass that comes with the PCIII, I saw the bypass mentioned in the PCIII instructions. I do not have the bypass in the box of parts I got from the PO.

I also noticed in the PCIII instructions also that the PCIII clips were to go on the fuel injectors...
When I removed the PCIII those clips were connected to (wait for it...) the spark plug COILS !!

Here's a close-up of some of the artistic work

The rear fairing was covered in that stuff !!
I just ordered two new side fairings (it was missing the left one anyway), and I will throw that one in "The Bin"
I scraped that stuff off the rear fairing and it came out surprisingly good.

You can still see the silicone sealer on the seat cover but I did not get real aggressive with it cause the seat cover is in otherwise good condition.
another close-up

There was Marine-Tex (hard epoxy) covering the bolts on the grab rail, it took the finish off down to the aluminum.
I see a new grab rail someday.
Meanwhile, I think I'll just take it back off, sand it and just paint it Black.

From 5 meters or so it does not look that bad !!


Anyway... It's running much better now that I was able to set the idle up to 800.
I can start the bike without twisting the grip even when cold, Of course our cold is  a lot warmer then most peoples cold.
It was 73 deg. F this morning, It's 5:30 PM EST and it's cooled off to about78 F now.
I love it here in Key West.
I've been here 40 years.

I'll check the O2 sensor...
Thanks again for reminding me.

captbruce

Every time I see POD FILTERS I think "that will run crap ".
I know some people sort them with a lot of work but I get a feeling your P\O will not be one of them . A mate of mine fitted some to a Katana (yes ,because
he liked the look ) . I rode it and they turned a great bike into A BIG PILE OF POO . Junk them ,and get bike running as standard before adding PC11
or your going around in circles .(like me trying to sort a Honda Tacho, no joy yet after about 6 attempts )

Was the PO's name Stephen King by any chance ?  Try using some orange base solvent on the silicone. The grab handle will come up like new if you sand it right back, primer, 2-3 coats of black gloss and then a couple of clear.  The original bolts are pretty expensive. Well  they are over here in Oz. I did my '06 GSF1200 which is identical body wise.  Will be very satisfying when you have it all sorted and can cruise down to the beaches and think about what you have done.  Nice work.

Agree with Gus on the pod thing,  BUT,  a PC should be mapped properly to take into account the increase in air intake and so forth. Only a shop with a dyno and the right gear is going to be able to get it running sweet.