1250 maladies

First topic message reminder :

Thanks for all the help I got from just introducing myself on the "Newbie"  forum.

I just got this '07 1250S ("S", I think, because it came with the fairing ?)

The PO removed the PAIR with the TPO kit, but didn't install a resistor.
I still have to do that, where do you get the resistor ?

I had the bike 4 days and it wouldn't start, "No Spark". I bought it "NOT running". Since I don't play the lottery, this is my form of "Gambling"...

After I removed the PC3, the Fl light kept flashing. I jumped the wires and it said C-23 (Tip-Over sensor) so I finally found the TO Sensor, and the PO installed it upside down so I just set it upright on top of the battery and BAM, she fired-up !!

That was a relief to hear it run.

I have it running, although barely, the #1 and 2 cylinders are not firing.
I warmed it up a little to change the oil and filter and the two left pipes didn't get hot like the other 2 cylinders.
I will try new plugs first, it had the Iridium NGK's but I will replace them with a set CR7E
It won't run if you let go of the grip.
It will idle though down to 800 rpms, but when you let go of the grip it stalls.

The fuel pump is running even with the key OFF. I completely emptied the tank and added 2.2 US Gal. of fresh 93 octane fuel
Every time I shut the engine off I have to unplug the fuel pump.

So NEXT on the list:
Get cylinders 1 and 2 firing, and find out why the fuel pump keeps running.
Oh I need that resistor too.

Otherwise everything seems to be OK except the PO "Ratted-Out" the bike to make it look like it was in the movie "Mad Max"
He Hacked off the bottom of the Fairing (it looks like he us ed a hacksaw)and otherwise made it look like trash.
It does have almost NEW Bridgestone's on it.
I picked it up for less then $500, with a clear Florida title. I transferred the title today

I'm gonna resurrect it to it's former "Glory" !!
It only has 12k mi. on it too.

Thanks for your help SBA Forum !!

Ride Safe !!
captbruce

The op did a great job of ruining a perfectly good running motorcycle bar burning it. I agree with all the guys about those pod filters, put the stock airbox in and reconnect the o2 sensor from the exhaust. One it is back to true stock the first light will disappear and the idle should re learn properly.

Thanks, guys for all your input.
I hate the pods too.
The outside ones will get wet in a rain.
Maybe I can find an airbox on FeeBay.

I have never personally removed the airbox on any of my bikes.
I've cursed them when I had to removes the carbs and I have removed some snorkels and modded them somewhat
but I like the waterproof box with a big air filter.

I can believe the torque the motor has.
In Key West I never use 6th gear. I just shifted to it to make sure it was working.
Otherwise it seems like an Highway Overdrive gear.

I got to go fishing tomorrow.
I gotta clear my mind, and make some $$$$.
Farkles don't come cheap.
But the Airbox and O2 sensor is good advise.
(but the idea of taking a few minutes and hooking the PCIII up properly, has it's merits too)

It's like Jimmy Buffet says... "Gotta stop wish'in, got to go fish'in. I'm down to rock bottom again. Just a few friends..."
I'm sure we have some friends "Down Under" !!

Thanks, Mates...
captbruce

Did the op not keep the original air box?

No, all the stuff he removed was discarded.

I will look to eBay.
I have over 3000 successful eBay auctions.
So if I take my time I'll find one.

captbruce

This one is US$47-95 and it's already in the States, standard ground postage is free

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/07-Up-Suzuki-Bandit-GSF-1250-Airbox-Air-Box-Intake-/160936165737

...and another for US$49-00

http://www.suncoastcyclesports.com/servlet/the-272830/07-dsh-Up-Suzuki-Bandit-GSF/Detail

should be pretty easy to source over there


did it come with the rest of the fairing (sides between the main part and the tank)?

When your happy with it Capt, put the novelist on the back and ride out "Beyond Thunderdome" and leave him there to walk home and have a good hard think about what he's done. There may even be a good story in it for him.

I have been fishing the last few days.
It take away time to work on the bike, but at least it gives me $$$$ to throw at it.

I had some time yesterday to work on the bike.

I cleaned that ISC valve, (Idle speed Control), but it didn't help. It did have some carbon on it, but not much.
Still idles too low at 800. Clutch noise and everything runs smooth at 1200

 I'm waiting for an airbox, on eBay.
See it that might help the idle.
Do I still leave the big hose capped off and patch the hole in the airbox ?

I am going to solder the proper resistor in soon, and flash the ECU, and see if the
FI light will douse.

I still get a flashing FI on the odometer, every 2 seconds it flashes "FI", and goes back to the mileage. ??

Otherwise she's starting to look normal and runs real well.

Gotta go Fish'in !!
captbruce

Captain, why don't you put the ECU into dealer mode and find out why the FI light is flashing. Don't go modifying anything until the bike is back to stock. I'd be betting their is an air leak somewhere. Keep the pairs blocked off and block of the air box. 


If you are not sure about dealer mode check out dhulas post on throttle body synchronisation it's in the first part of the how to.

Just went and found the link bridge the connector and get the code then post it up and we will try and help you out
https://nswbandits.forumotion.net/t311-tb-balance-sync

+1.  It won't be an ECU issue, but an air leak or a sensor. The aim is to bring back to stock and reduce the variables or you will add layers of complexity and make troubleshooting really hard

Thanks guys,
And thanks Reddog, for the link.
My wife just arrived, with my vacuum manifold. I will do a TB sync soon.

I soldered a 10w 330ohm resistor and the FI light has extinguished !!
I now have a _C00 code so I need to adjust the TPS and TB sync.

I finally got some time and rode the bike around the island, and did some errands while I was at it.
It starts and run great. (except for the 800 rpm idle)
The new Bridgestone BattleAx tires (came with the bike) run smooooth !!
 
I took a picture, near the "Southernmost Point"



The bike looks a far sight better now with almost no sign of the artistic hi-jinks, of the PO.
When I arrived home the sprocket cover was in the mail and was installed.
It needs new mirrors, (I'm trying to find the proper ones, with turn signals, on eBay), but I have to live with the butchered fairing for now.

I also have an airbox coming.
I lowered the seat 1" for a better control when stopped.
I'm kinda "inseam challenged".

Thanks for all your help. EVERYONE !!
captbruce

Lookin' good mate.

You've done a hell of a job on it Capt, but is sure does look kinda "wounded" with just the front part of the "S" fairing.

Looks like some sort of alien praying mantis. cool!

I finally got the stock airbox, off ebay.
It's too big to slip into the frame.
Do I have to remove the TB's to get it in place ?
I hope not...
She's running great with the pods now. except for the low idle. (800 or so)
That looks like a lot of work, to disconnect the TB's.

Thanks,
captbruce

Yes the throttle bodies will need to come out. You don't need to remove the throttle cables, just pull them out the right side of the bike. Remove the secondaries whilst you are there

Thanks, Reddog.

I was afraid of that.
I can see where some one has removed the TB's before.
I don't think it was the PO. I think it was the owner before him.

Yesterday I finally found what was causing the low idle.
I just started pulling hoses off and replacing them and I finally got to the long bigger black hose that went to the right side of the air box,
and when I un-capped it the revs picked up to about 3000, and the FI light came on.
So I capped it again and checked the code but there was no code.

I started it back up and with it idling low I pinched the hose and un-capped it and slowly allowed air to enter and I got the revs to pick up to 1300
and the bike sounded great, but after 30 seconds or so the FI light came back on. So I capped it and shut it off and checked the codes again. NO CODES. just -C00

So I tried a third time pinching the hose after un-capping it, and only after about 1 minute the FI light came on again, so I left it totally un-capped and wide open and checked the codes again, and the were NO CODES.

So I started it up with the hose wide open and it idled like a champ (1300 or so) and the FI light never came on again.

It starts with the touch of the button and idles GREAT and runs smoother, shifts smoother too, than ever before,
although I've only had the bike a few weeks.

Now I have to contemplate taking it apart again, and re-installing the air box, and having to balance everything again.
I do hate the pods though. Water will surely enter the outside pods, as rain drips off the tank.
I will do the job, but I will enjoy the bike in the meantime.
I don't ride in the rain and I don't store the bike outside.

I am beginning to LOVE this bike. It's like a mistreated orphan, that you adopt and nurture, with TLC.

I might have to sell a bike to justify keeping it.  I'm only the Captain... I have an Admiral to answer too, and she thinks I'm some kind of hoarder !!
I try to explain those people on TV don't collect, Motorcycle... Tools... Vintage Martin and Gibson guitars... Fishing Tackle...
I'll tell her I'll sell the Sportster... They are a "dime a dozen" anyway.

I took the Bandit by my local M/C shop, not a dealer and he said he has "NEVER worked on a Bandit", there were at least 50 bikes there and most were R6 and R1's.
But I think he specializes in Yammy anyway.
I thought that was, pretty amazing he never worked on a Bandit !!
Dale Walker told me "if the oil is kept clean", he considered them "Bullet-Proof".
Pretty hefty testimonial, I'd say !! 

Anyway, I'll think toward the stock air box, and get my mind right for the job.
It should only take a few hours, so for me, If I get it done, by dinner time I'll be happy.

You say all the TB's come out the right side without removing the throttle cable ??

Thanks, again.
captbruce

Go to Dale's site www.holeshot.com and look for his Stage 2 installation instructions and there's pics on removing the TBs.  Well worth removing the secondaries while they are out.  The difference is amazing

Thanks, Kewwig.
I'm probably making it sound harder then it really is.
Remove the secondaries and I like the idea of cutting the lid and a K&N filter too.

The bike has a Yoshi pipe on it.



I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks, again.
captbruce

OK, it's Done !!
Stock Airbox installed and secondary Butterflies removed.
2 hours total !!



I had to drill out 3 screws on the outside BF's. (2 on the left and 1 on the right)
You could see someone tried to remove then and buggered up the Phillips heads.
I used a new Craftsman #1 Phillips and removed the other 5 "no problem"
I tried to heat the three with a solder gun but finally drilled them.



Now I'll cut open the lid and get the K&N filter.
Much quitter with the airbox too.

You guys "Down Under" ARE the Best !!
No kidding... I haven't heard from any of the other forums.
Thanks for being there.

captbruce

Its a common problem that people bugger up the screw heads.
Without knowing that the screws are actually JIS and not phillips and that they are held in with a thread locker. They are often butchered
As you found out it can be done with a good quality Phillips of the right size and some heat.

I used a Pencil blowtorch



You'll find it responds much better without those secondaries

Captain, be careful about cutting the airbox lid without adding a TFI or the PowerCommander.  The bandits are tuned to run quite lean stock, which is why many owners experience surging around the 2500 RPM mark.  This is so the bike complies with Euro 3 emissions standards.  Adding an end can is dealt with by the bike without too many issues, but opening the airbox, adding a K & N and removing the secondaries will flow a lot more air and you may run a risk of running too lean.  The bandits aren't stressed, but Dale himself warns about doing all the mods without adding fuel.  The  PowerCommander you have will sort that, although you will need time on a dyno to sort it properly. The Dobeck TFIs sold by Dale work similarly, but he provides the settings and they are literally plug and play as many of us have them fitted.  With the mods you have done so far, adding a PC3 or TFI will give you outstanding results.  You'll love it.

Well done so far captain. I am with Kewwig here I think it's time to install that power commander and download a map from here http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/MapLookUp/powercommander_map_lookup.aspx?mkid=21&mkname=Suzuki&mdlid=178&mdlname=Bandit%201250&yrid=2009

Let's hope the previous owner hasn't fried it.

Thanks again kewwig and reddog.
The bike came with a PCIII.
I originally took it off, but shortly after sorting out the issues the bike had, I re-installed it.
The TO sensor was mounted upside down and the 1 and 2 plug connections were crossed.

I do not know what map is in it.
I couldn't get it to connect to my laptop.
The USB would connect but I couldn't open the PCIII, with the PC software.
The PO gave me the CD-ROM and instructions, but he didn't have the USB-MiniB cable.
I used one from my Sony camera and maybe it's not compatible.

The bike is really running GOOD.
Maybe I'll pull the plugs and see if it's running lean.
I don't see how it could be.

Even with the PODS, it seem to be running rich at least at idle.
I'm just judging by my nose (smell).
I've pulled the plugs quite a few times and they always looked good.

Best to All !!
captbruce

Cold idle it will run rich but after that it will run lean at mid to wide open throttle, especially under load.  The ECU only compensates so far, but given you have a PC3 currently installed, that may be OK.  If it's running well, you'll know.

You have to have the bike ignition on and maybe the bike running to connect to the PC 3. I'd say judging by the previous owners bodgy jobs it still has a zero map. I'd recommend using the yoshi exhaust and air filter map.