Healtech Fi tuner
3 posters
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Healtech Fi tuner
Hey guys, Anyone got a map I can try? I've put the tuner back on because for some reason somethings gone to the dogs and I'm now using 10L/100k and that's even after putting a K&N filter in. I'm guessing that one of the sensors Iap or Iat have shit themselves, Co2 sensor is bypassed. will check all connectors to see if there's proper connection. Not riding it any more because the old landcruiser uses less fuel.
Kaupy1962- Posts : 1051
Join date : 2011-06-22
Age : 62
Healtech Fi tuner
you could send dhula a PM
paul- Posts : 7740
Join date : 2011-08-19
Age : 72
Location : Morphett Vale Sth. Aust.
Re: Healtech Fi tuner
Here is some of my thoughts. A few of em you don't even have to get your hands dirty
*Are you doing the calculations correctly. Not saying you arn't but doesn't hurt to check. For L/100kms, the sum should be --> (L used/km travelled)*100
*Have you got a different tyre on the back. A different profile or different width will have a minor bearing on the end result. eg, if you put a 190/55/17 on the back you will have to change the sums to be (L/(km*1.02))*100 as the overall difference from stock is 2%. Like I said not much but might need to be taken into account
*Are you using a speedo healer and is it set correctly for the gearing change (if you have one). If you have a SH but no gearing change put into ghost mode and recheck you economy. The odo on the bandit is pretty accurate while the speedo is fast. If you have a gearing change use the SH online calc but be sure to uncheck the "allow for speedo error" box and retry you readings.
*Are you sure the odo is working correctly and is reading the right number of kms travelled. Ride a set route over a distance you know (eg, 200kms door to door) and then check you odo. I find that google maps is pretty good for working out distance (not too far off anyways) or perhaps your navigator.
*Why have you got the o2 sensor bypassed and how did you do it. There can be differences in how the bike does stuff depending on how you did it. If you had it bypassed but no add on box fitted the try a ride with the o2 sensor working as it should and see how it goes before putting on a add on box to improve economy
*Have you got a wombat hiding in the airbox, perhaps it snuck in there while you were fitting the K and N filter
*Have you pulled the plugs to see if it is running rich (10l/100kms during normal use is about fouble what it should be)
*Do you have access to OBD tool or SDS to gather DTC's to check for Fi things not working as they should. As you don't say if a Fi light came on I can only presume one didn't so don't think there is anything working outside of it's parameters (doesn't mean they aren't stuffed tho)
Hopefully that enough to get you started. Let us know how you go and we can help out some more from there.
*Are you doing the calculations correctly. Not saying you arn't but doesn't hurt to check. For L/100kms, the sum should be --> (L used/km travelled)*100
*Have you got a different tyre on the back. A different profile or different width will have a minor bearing on the end result. eg, if you put a 190/55/17 on the back you will have to change the sums to be (L/(km*1.02))*100 as the overall difference from stock is 2%. Like I said not much but might need to be taken into account
*Are you using a speedo healer and is it set correctly for the gearing change (if you have one). If you have a SH but no gearing change put into ghost mode and recheck you economy. The odo on the bandit is pretty accurate while the speedo is fast. If you have a gearing change use the SH online calc but be sure to uncheck the "allow for speedo error" box and retry you readings.
*Are you sure the odo is working correctly and is reading the right number of kms travelled. Ride a set route over a distance you know (eg, 200kms door to door) and then check you odo. I find that google maps is pretty good for working out distance (not too far off anyways) or perhaps your navigator.
*Why have you got the o2 sensor bypassed and how did you do it. There can be differences in how the bike does stuff depending on how you did it. If you had it bypassed but no add on box fitted the try a ride with the o2 sensor working as it should and see how it goes before putting on a add on box to improve economy
*Have you got a wombat hiding in the airbox, perhaps it snuck in there while you were fitting the K and N filter
*Have you pulled the plugs to see if it is running rich (10l/100kms during normal use is about fouble what it should be)
*Do you have access to OBD tool or SDS to gather DTC's to check for Fi things not working as they should. As you don't say if a Fi light came on I can only presume one didn't so don't think there is anything working outside of it's parameters (doesn't mean they aren't stuffed tho)
Hopefully that enough to get you started. Let us know how you go and we can help out some more from there.
dhula- Posts : 1156
Join date : 2009-09-03
Location : Warnbro
Re: Healtech Fi tuner
Odo is reading same as Gps. It was running perfectly @ 5.1L/100k. Everything apart from the muffler was standard o2 sensor connected and clean. Plugs burning slightly grey.(Tank filled to the top on the centre stand. The first block went off the guage @ 90k) Then progressively started to get worse after a couple of weeks, dropping to 74k first block, then 70k, 68k,64,60k,50k. No check light on the speedo coming on.
I've since put the Healtech tuner back on. o2 sensor bypassed with the proper acquired bypass plug and altered the map @ the 4000 - 4500rpm line up to 40%throttle, down to -6 and getting better results.
Still running the same Michelin PR2 at almost 16,000k
I've checked all connectors in case water had got in. (we've had a LOT of rain)
Birthday is coming up in June and hoping the kids will buy me the OBD tool.
I could post a copy of the map I'm running if I knew how to get it from the program to the forum.
I'm still in the process of making a Yoshi Box. Having trouble getting switches that will solder directly onto the PCB
I've since put the Healtech tuner back on. o2 sensor bypassed with the proper acquired bypass plug and altered the map @ the 4000 - 4500rpm line up to 40%throttle, down to -6 and getting better results.
Still running the same Michelin PR2 at almost 16,000k
I've checked all connectors in case water had got in. (we've had a LOT of rain)
Birthday is coming up in June and hoping the kids will buy me the OBD tool.
I could post a copy of the map I'm running if I knew how to get it from the program to the forum.
I'm still in the process of making a Yoshi Box. Having trouble getting switches that will solder directly onto the PCB
Last edited by Kaupy1962 on Sun 18 Mar 2012, 12:09 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Adding)
Kaupy1962- Posts : 1051
Join date : 2011-06-22
Age : 62
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