Anyone using FI tuner pro?

At this stage my Bandit's mod is only a Yoshi 77 slip on.
With 18K service, will be installing K&N air filter.

I am reading that that above combo could result in a lean fuel mix.

So.... options are... leave it as it is, or install FI tuner pro or similar.

FI tuner pro is the cheapest option. Anyone has used / installed this?
Can't find any reviews online.

Cheers
Andy

Would need to let other members comment on Healtech F1 pro unit as I have not come across it.

Did see unit on Solomotoparts for $229.99 with free del.
http://www.solomotoparts.com/product.php?productid=38677 $229 free shipping

Lot of information at Dale's holeshot performance site which uses Dobeck tfi unit. (graphs, dyno results, etc..)
http://www.holeshot.com/

You can also have the AF mix adjusted by up to 10% either way if you can find someone who has a Yoshi box and a dyno. A suzuki dealer near BNE will do it for $99. I'm planning on having it done in the coming weeks.

Mars wrote:

Did see unit on Solomotoparts for $229.99 with free del.
http://www.solomotoparts.com/product.php?productid=38677 $229 free shipping

Offer does not apply to orders outside of the Continental 48 United States or APO/FPO address.

However... free shipping from an Australian re seller (link below if interested)

$245

About to place an order ...

Well, item arrived within 24 hrs.
Attached instructions in my opinion were a bit slim on detail, especially for someone who never poked around electricals. I e-mailed healtech and they response was fantastic.
The e-mailed me photos on how to install the device (specifically how to use the cable clip ons) and a custom map for my bike's configuration.
Just fantastic service.

Recommended.

So how's it different from PC3 & PC5?

A quick review of the installation procedure (this is my first ever "how to")

First, in order to complete the project in addition to the FI Tuner Pro (and the bits and pieces that came with it) you will need a pair of pliers, a notebook computer (with Windows) and an internet connection.

To start with, I visited Healtech website and downloaded an application that is required to interface with a FI Tuner Pro. The application is Windows based, so if you have a Mac, you will need VMware or similar to run it under Windows. There is also several maps that can be loaded on to the FI tuner via the application. If you can't find a map for your bike, feel free to email Healtech support.
I downloaded the application and a map for GSF1250 Bandit K7-K8 with an after market exhaust and standard/after market air filter. So, armed with all software, I was ready to install FI Pro.

Turn the ignition to OFF, remove the seat and locate the ECM. It is the big box strapped to the bike with a rubber o ring and with two connectors going into it..
Next the the ECM, there is an expansion port which is covered with a protective plastic cover. Remove the cover and plug in a main cable of the FI tuner.

Untitled by step_andy, on Flickr

Now the tricky part, tapping into the wiring with supplied red wire connectors.
I found that removing the large connector from the ECM gives a lot more room to work with. So, disconnect the large connector. Locate the wires that are to be tapped into. Supplied instructions will outline specific wires depending on the model of the bike.
Once you have located the wire, place it into the red connector (as a pass through), close the side of the connector, insert the piggy back wire in the connector, insert the metal U into the connector and press it down with your fingers. To fully secure the connection, you will need to use pliers to fully press the U bracket into the connector.

03[2] by step_andy, on Flickr

Repeat the procedure for the second wire.

Once you have connected both wires, re connect the large connector to the ECM

Untitled by step_andy, on Flickr

Now you are ready to test the connections as per supplied instructions. Turn the ignition to ON (but don't start the bike), the light on the FI should flicker green. Open the throttle all the way and the light will go static (green). If it doesn't, you have messed up with connections.

Feel free to start the bike to see if all is good.

Now, turn the ignition OFF. For the final step you will need your laptop. Plug provided USB cable into the FI turner and the other end into the PC. Fire up the Healtech application, load the map that you downloaded earlier.
Turn the ignition to ON. PC will detect the FI tuner and will calibrate (follow the prompts).
After the calibration, load the map (hit the SEND button). Map will upload within 1 sec. Whilst PC is connected, you can start the bike. You will see "live" which settings are used at different RPMs.
Once you have enjoyed the "live" view, turn off the bike, disconnect the PC, clean up the wiring and secure the FI Pro unit to the bike with the provided velcro.

Untitled by step_andy, on Flickr

As a final step, don't forget to put one of the supplied stickers


Untitled by step_andy, on Flickr

Reardo wrote:So how's it different from PC3 & PC5?

I have no idea what is PC3 or PC5

This is a cut and paste from FI Tuner FAQ

The FI Tuner Pro from HealTech Electronics Ltd. is a unique product with some exciting features not found in competing fuel injection tuning modules.
Other FI modules connect AFTER the ECM (bike computer) hence they override the ECM and control the injectors. Installation takes considerable time, even with the plug-in versions.
The FI Tuner Pro (FIT module) connects to the ECM expansion port, and the ECM adjusts the fueling based on the fuel table stored in the FIT. This means that all 8 injectors remain under control of the ECM in the best possible way - taking in account the engine load conditions and all sensor readings.
The fuel tables (MAPs) stored in the FIT module can be edited by a computer connected via a USB cable. The software runs on any version of Windows and is extremely easy to use. The software and hardware is very responsive, the user never has to wait for an operation to complete. Automatic, fail-safe firmware and software updating is another unique feature not found in competing products.

If that your first ever how to ,take a bow .

Big question is, any difference ?

Excellent "how to" - thanks for posting.
As Gus said, what difference does it make to the bike - are there any downsides.
I was thinking of a Staintune and the FI Tuner later on - not sure if I want to fiddle with anything too much while under warranty. I imagine anything like this would void the warranty.

I imagine anything like this would void the warranty.

If what ever it is you did to the bike is proven to be the cause of the failure then in most cases it will void the warranty. If it has nothing to do with the failure then it shouldn't matter. For example if you put a muffler on and sometime down the track a piston melted due to running extremely lean, if it could be proven that the muffler was the cause of the melted piston, then you'd have no claim to warranty.



The Fi tuner appears to be using the inbuilt ability of the Suzuki ECU to make the changes to the fuel maps similar to the way the yoshie box, TEKA or biketech fuel adjusters do what they do.
Difference from what I can tell is that it is way more precise than the other methods mentioned above (more adjustment points), can't be removed from the bike and does what it does on the fly.

gus wrote:If that your first ever how to ,take a bow .

Big question is, any difference ?

Thank you...

Well, my first impression is .... yes, it does make difference.
Could be a halo effect, but...

I believe that it has reduced back fire by about 50% and I haven't had occasional surging at low RPMs that I had before.
Also, Bandit accelerates much better. I had a "flat" spot at 3500-4000 RPMs. Now it just pulls.

Overall, I think it was a worth while mod.

Will be interesting to see fuel consumption.

good post and exellent "how-to".

Well, I have done one tank worth of riding and I am happy to report that the fuel economy has improved with FI tuner installed.

I usually use regular ULP (91) and I do mixed riding in my daily travel, 50/50 split between highway (80-110 km/h) and stop go traffic.
Pre FI, I would do about 6.5L per 100.
With FI installed, Bandit did below 5.5 and on this tank I didn't skimp on RPMs. The last bar started to flash on about 200 km on the clock.

I will report back after couple more tanks.

Happy to report that all is still good.
On 2nd tank, I did most of my riding in CBD with stop, stop, go - plus a fair bit of two up. This time round I managed about 6.2L per 100 km.
On 3rd, I was back to regular 50/50 street highway combo and this time it was 5.4L per 100 (last bar started to flash at 215)

Overall, I am very happy with FI tuner. Performance is up and fuel consumption is down.
Win win to me.

step_andy wrote:Happy to report that all is still good.
On 2nd tank, I did most of my riding in CBD with stop, stop, go - plus a fair bit of two up. This time round I managed about 6.2L per 100 km.
On 3rd, I was back to regular 50/50 street highway combo and this time it was 5.4L per 100 (last bar started to flash at 215)

Overall, I am very happy with FI tuner. Performance is up and fuel consumption is down.
Win win to me.

Cheers from America!

After reading your thread and how-to, I decided to follow your lead and buy the fi-tuner pro. Just recieved and planning to install AFTER my dealer installes the regulator next week. I have not found many people running this on a 1250 yet, and the "pureists" tent to gravitate to Dale and nothing other.

Just wanted to say- thanks for your hard work and sharing

08k8

Hope you are still happy with the FI Tuner Pro - just a quick question - did you have to disable / bypass the oxygen sensor and if so how is that done ?

Yes- this is done by disconnecting a wire from the main ECU. Pin #23 on the small connector..

I have not yet installed my tuner yet, but it is in queue

Thanks - sounds like you would get a FI light by removing a wire from the ECU but I guess the FI Tuner Pro avoids that somehow.

Nothing is ever simple.
I was under impression that my Bandit was O2 sensor free, but it isn't the case.
Thanks to 08k8 who pointed out where to look and Bingo! There it was!

Back to mods... will have to disconnect the pin

No you don't need to disable the O2 sensor from what I know.

Not to say you can't install a O2 bypass/eliminator tho. There are a few out there and most work pretty well but I have read that some of the units while cause a Fi light and DTC when sitting on steady RPMS after a while.

It Fi tuner works with the ECU to adjust fuel loading across the range and is not a "add on" box like PC and TFI where you need to disable the O2 sensor or the ECU will try to bring back the fuel to satisfy the maps in the ECU

Pulling wire #23 from the ECU will be like disconnecting the O2 sensor at the little plug under the left hand side cover (easier to disconnect the plug IMO) and will throw a Fi light and store a DTC.

I emailed Healtech to ask about the O2 sensor and if it has to be disabled and got this reply;

"That is right, the O2 sensor must be disabled.

This procedure is very simple, it is described in the FIT install guide.

Kind Regards,
/Norbert
healtech-electronics.com"

Looks like if you don't disable the O2 sensor it will feed back the changed A/F ratio and the ECU will then adjust back to factory settings. I'm guessing that because the FI Tuner plugs into the ECU it somehow tells the ECU not to give a fault light and throw an error code.

Kind of makes me wonder why there is an O2 sensor in the first place if you can disable it without seemingly any effect.

I'm doing a bit more research into this as I'm trying to understand how the Fi tuner works and what it does.
The disabling of the O2 sensor has me a bit baffled but if Healtech say it needs to be done then perhaps my initial understanding of how it works is way off. No biggy I'll just need to do a bit more looking into it so I can understand what it does.

The pin 23 on the small connector has me thrown a bit.
Smoozuki number the ECU pins 1 - 60 and don't differentiate between the small and large connector in the service manual.
08K8 can you give a bit more info as to which pin they are talking about along the lines of "on the small connector it is the # pin from the right/left on the top/bottom row and the colour of the wire is ________"

I'd be interested to find out a bit more too.

Like you dhula I was under the impression that the O2 sensor stayed connected basically because the FI Tuner plugs into the ECU it was virtually like reflashing the ECU with the new fuel values.

If the O2 sensor stayed connected I looked at that as a big plus since the tune would stay spot on regardless of altitude, temperature etc. With the 02 sensor disconnected I feel it's virtually just a fancy, expensive, complicated carburettor since the mixture will not respond to changing conditions like going from sea level to mountain tops.

Admittedly the EFI will still respond to cold/hot starts etc without the O2 sensor so to that extent it's better than carbs.

My question:
Will cutting this wire (to bypass the O2) cause the FI warning light to turn on? This matters because of how the government in my state checks for inspection.

Also- by not allowing the ECU to see the O2 sensor, it will only run at the map in the FITuner, without subtle changes to maintain 14.7:1 correct? This is why I will have more power, but maybe a little more pollution correct? If I'm wrong, can you explain?

The response:
The FI light will not turn on.
Basically, the purpose of this wire is to disable the O2 sensor, but this is
an undocumented feature.

That's correct, you gain more power, response and drivability as the AFR
won't be leaned out.

*** I asked just a moment ago about the bike not having good driveability at sea level vs mountain tops. As soon as I have a reply I will post it.***