Fuel Pump Fix

First topic message reminder :

After 4 days trying to fix my ruining problems of no power, top speed of 10 kph OR 110 kph and no acceleration. I traced the fault to the fuel pump assembly. Sometimes it would work, other times it wouldn't. Pressure was either good or poor. It looked like a dodgy fuel pump which Suzuki want $700. If i had taken it to a dealer they would have replaced the assembly which would have fixed the problem but cost me $1000.

I'm unemployed at the moment so that was out of the question. I doubt VERY much I'm the only person to have this problem in the past
or future.

Photos and instructions following

What size drill bit would I need to put into the toolkit to punch a hole straight through in the event of a roadside fix?

Drill bit would not work , a bent cheap small screw driver would .Maybe the small allen key ,not sure how tough the screen is .Still think the
best idea is to clean it every 10,000 k's with the above wire toothbrush .

@ sb1250 If you carry a small 12v compressor, you can blow the crap out. The local bearing shop here sells them. They're roughly 160mmx160mmx80mm

When I lost power,eighty klm top speed, I was near a friend's place. We took the tank off and blew the, outer, filter out with a compressor. Although there was further crud in the small internal filter, that I didn't know about at the time, it got me home with normal power available until near home when it blocked the outer filter again. A lot of gunk in the tank at the time. I did clean the rest of the fuelpump, the small filter, and bought a new initial filter. I kept the old ,cleaned, filter and I keep this on the bike in a small plastic bag. If I notice a sudden loss of power while on a longer trip I'll upend the tank, no fuel runs out of the top filler fitting, and I'll simply replace the filter. This should get me home where I would do the rest of the cleaning. You're initial blockage will most likely be the outer filter as it is a fine mesh.

Now i know what you guys carry in side bags ,a compressor .

Maybe the fuel in your area is crap. I hopefully won't put the mocker on myself, but I've had 30000km tick over without a problem. I only normally use shell or caltex fuel, every 3rd tank or so it gets 95 or 98. Other than that she runs on 91.

If I kept having the problem you guys are seeing I'd be doing what the VStrom guys do for sure.

Ah the bandit / fa fuel pump. Had my scoot in at my dealer for the 24k service today, in amongst lots of other wrk, the fuel pump come out and got the "Gus" treatment, fair bit of sh1t come out, which apparently in part comes from the lining in the tank breaking away and mixing with the fuel, which may be in addition to average fuel, given near all fuel is imported. Anyway, if (im sure it will) it keeps going, I'll be up for a replacement pump, although some are looking at a U.S after market job at significant less cost than a suzuki oem unit...oh well, im happy as it feels like my dealer mech has loaded me up with another 20hp...roll on spring!

Hmm not sure my problem is related, but with over 30k on her, its worth doing anyway.
between 80-110km/h, under load accelerating onto a freeway, there is lack of power. Just a slight missfire. Ill give this a go and ill report back.

Finally gave it ago today. Test ride tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

Fixed thanks gus!
POWER!!

On my previous GSX1400 I had to replace the fuel pump at $1050 because the inside of the tank had surface rust through condensation which clogged the fuel pump, all attempts to clean the pump failed. After replacing the pump, I had to give the inside of the tank various treatments and then the final coat relined the tank.

Regards

Paul...Blueknight

I'm wondering if this is the cause to the problem I'm having also. I can't get my gsf1250s to accelerate beyond 3000rpm at the moment and will in fact feel like I'm losing power after 3000rpm.

Wonder no more , thats the problem .

Yup. That's the problem right there.

The problem I was having was the GSX1400 would go to between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm and then start to misfire etc under load. Up to those rpm it would run fine, the bike shop diagnosed it as a clogged fuel pump/filter, they cleaned out as much muck as possible and it went fine for a short time, then the same thing happened again. As I said previously, it was fine particles of rust that had clogged it. Apparently it was caused by the inside of the tank getting surface rust and the fuel then washed the rust off and it was settling in the lowest part of the tank, hence the fuel pump. When I took the tank off you could see that it had surface rust on the inside, the bike shop said it was probably caused by condensation, the possible reason for this was after being ridden and getting home with a half full tank, the heat from the motor caused the condensation in the tank. So from then on, I have a 20 litre plastic can of fuel at home and keep if full all of the time.
After getting the new fuel pump put in it went like the 1400 should. I tried to clean the old pump out to keep as a spare but it was clogged solid.
If you decide to give the inside of the tank the treatment and put the coating on the inside surface, you have to be extremely careful that every bit of the tank is coated otherwise the fuel can get between the coating and the tank and the coating can collapse like a deflated balloon and cover the fuel pump etc.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Paul

Thanks Gus,

I rode my new (to me) '08 1250SA from Adelaide home to Darwin. Picked up a not-so-good batch of fuel at Mataranka.

Pulled everything apart as per your instructions this arvo. Running a lot nicer now!

Little did i know this post would actually be helpfull . Makes days of pulling that fuel system apart worth it .

gus wrote:Little did i know this post would actually be helpfull . Makes days of pulling that fuel system apart worth it .

Cast thy bread upon the waters, someone said...
... you never know, some might come back as toast

gus wrote:Wonder no more , thats the problem .

Issue fixed! Thanks for the post... I can see it's a common problem.

Thats a really good fix from Gus.

Heres another I found on, dare I say it, a Kawa forum from the US. It is a replacement for the Mitsubishi uc-t35 pump that the Bandit is fitted with. I have the bits over from the US and will be trying to fit them this weekend. But first I will try Gus's trick.

My bike has been into Witchcycles Rockingham WA twice where they have re-lapped the pump rotor. Its better but not as it should be. It took them 2 goes to get it this far.

Paul

http://www.kawieriders.com/forum/kawasaki-brute-force-prairie-bayou/127909-replacement-pump-uc-t35-found.html





Replacement pump for uc-t35 found!!!!!

---

Ok everyone here it is. I have a 2008 Brute Force
750 fi. My pump recently failed and upon doing search after search my
last option was to bite the bullet and buy a new $500 pump. I seen a vid
on youtube about a guy modding a corvette fuel pump on to his brute
force and it worked downside is the factory regulator cuts the 90psi
corvette pump down to 43psi (needed for operation on brute) this causes
in my opinion a awefull whislte durring the entire time of operation of
the said brute. I work for a local Dodge dealership as a tech. I decided
i would start researching dodge efi fuel pumps to see what i could
find. After looking at thousands of pumps and thier specs i finally ran
across one. A 1988 Dodge Omni uses a efi fuel pump that specs out to a
maximum psi of 46psi. the brute only needs 43 thus the regulator
theoretically shouldnt wistle during operation and the pump wouldnt have
as much strain. I recently purchased the pump. ( you can get the pump
through your local Autozone for $60) I aslo had to purchase a fuel line
fitting and a new filter sock. i have $71 in this setup. It took me
about 15-20mins to install the pump to my factory pump housing. I
installed the new pump in my brute today and it fired right up ( with no
whistle) i drove it for about 3 hrs without any problems at all. I also
strapped the fuel bowl thats is intended to keep fuel to the pump when
going up steap hills. I went up several hills and had no problem. Here
are some pics that i took. And tomarrow i will post up a vid. Finally my
fellow Kawasaki friends a relief to the overpriced $500 factory pump.

ENJOY!

Pump and items that are included



Fuel fitting. This fitting will thread into the whole where your factory pump goes into the mid section of pump housing.



Here it is almost finished minus wirring that you will have to extend

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized %1%2.

the pump upon your decision will sit on the bottom of the tank either to
the right or left of the rear of the tank. will not enterfear with the
float.

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Finished product.




And Specs for pump.



Anyone has any questions or needs help feel free to ask.

I will get the part # for the filter sock i used but any airtex master
brand should work Autozone will let you go through their stock and find
one that will work.

Have faith ,it will work .(I hope)

Hey Gus that is a top fix worked for me. Even after Witchcycles had two goes at re-lapping the pump impeller they were barking up the wrong tree.

That filter screen I found was unseeable. I did as you said with the electrical wire and some carbie cleaner blown out with comp air and brown liquid came out on the clean rag. I left it to soak for a while with the carbie cleaner and blew it out backwards twice.

Went out for a spin this arvo and yep reving freely, idling better and up to 180kph no probs.

I would say that unleaded gum deposits are building up on that final 30 micon screen.

Will be using premium unleaded from here on in. Great post Gus.

Paul

This is a great thread.

Overengineering of key parts, which eventually become obsolescent is a great stopper to people owning bikes for a very long time. If the Airtex E7000 fuel pump modification works, it may be the single thing which will keep todays Bandits on the road in 20 (or more) years time, well after such time as Suzuki engineers have moved on.

This simple, generic pump could well be the single most significant modification to Bandits that one could make. I'm not promoting the mod. for the sake of it, but it looks like a simple and effective solution to a problem many might have.

Anyone who fits an aftermarket fuel pump and has no trouble at all please take the trouble to let us all know. We all seem to know of problems, but often overlook the significance of reporting successes we've had with things that work well.

Thanks Gus for the initial report and for others who've contributed. It's great to see what could affect us before it does.

I'm still running the original tea bag strainer at 50,000 kls .Ive cleaned the mesh twice . It seems clean it one ,and all is good .

I did the good ol' fuel pump fix on mashers bike on saturday. Unfortunately didnt fix the problem. After it fixed mine i was sure thats what the problem was....Until i heard it ride down the street. Something else going on there.