secondary butterflies removed

So, the weekend has come and gone, and I have spend another day cleaning, and admiring the brilliance of this bike.

Started with installing an immobiliser system (stop the kiddie theives and joy riders), and then oil, oil filter and air filter change, and it got me thinking long and hard about a dead-spot in the bike between 3,000rpm and 4,000rpm, usually felt when buttering in the traffic, and usually as I am trying to apply a little bit of power to move in and out of cars.

I did some reading up, and many people have sworn by removing the secondary butterfly system on these bikes, usually installing an intercept loom that opens them right up, holds them open and fools the ECU into thinking it's controlling them as normal.

I figured "what's the difference between a $50 "trick" loom and just unscrewing the butterflies and leaving the servo to think it's controlling them?

Well Ladies and Gentle fellows, the difference is about 2 hours of work, $50, and either pulling stuff apart, or not.

Ie, if you want to do some extra work, it's not hard to get in and do it.

Before going into the details, I will tell you the results...

With secondaries fitted, I had a dull spot in the rev range between 3,000 rpm to 4,000rpm
AFTER removing the flaps from the betteryfly controll arm on all 4 throttle inputs, the bike feels like it has more torque low-down, smooth power delivery from 1500rpm right up to 12,000rpm (havent had a lot of space or legal road to greatly test this out, but testing is still ongoing). And there is no more dull/flat spot in the RPM climb, so I can low-change and not risk the stutter or hesitation from the bike when I need to use the throttle.


So, proceedure:

This was painful to say the least (sorry no photos, I forgot to remove my phone while taking a hot-tub dip, so byebye phone, dont believe samsung when they say the S5 is "water proof", it's friggin not!!).

Anyway, firstly remove the fuel tank, and both side fairings (easy part), then remove the air filter cover, and undo the air filter box from the throttle body unit, then undo the throttle body unit from the engine.

At this point, either mask up, or rage-plug the intake openings on the engine, you dont want to get unfiltered nasty shit in the engine here)

Next, undo the looms and fuel injector plugs (needed for clearance to come out).

For me, I didnt go as far as the throttle cable, looked like a pain in the ass job, so I just went lazy, but if you remove the throttle cable, you could remove the entire throttle body unit from here and play with it on a bench.

So, I slide the throttle body unit to the right as far as it could go, watching for it snagging on cables, plugs, injectors, etc and was able to gain clear access to the 3rd and 4th cylinder thottles, here I opened my normal throttle 100% and used a throttle lock (vista throttle lock cruise control) to hold the throttle open. I used a weak ass screwdriver at first, which the tip snapped clean off, so magnet to remove the tip from the screw, then found a decent quality driver, and removed the 2 screws holding the butterfly flap on cylinder 3 in, then repeated again for cylinder 4.

Using compressed air, I blew 3 and 4 clean of any particles, and taped both over to stop crud getting in.

Slid the throttle body all the way left, and repeated the process for cylinder 1 and 2.

When done, re-fitted everything in the reverse of undoing it all, double checking cables, plugs, fuel injectors, fuel plugs, hoses, etc to make sure everything was plugged back in.

Once done, turned the ignition on, all lights came on as per normal, no FI light, no other warning lights.

started the bike up and let it run a bit to warm up, gave it a could of light revs, no problems, no noises, no error lights, etc.

Turned it off, placed it in dealer mode, ran a check for any logged errors, and -C00, all clear and everything reading correct.

As mentioned above, after a test ride, the response was amazing, felt so much smoother, no more psycho switch from single throttles to twin throttles, it's a clean smooth power delivery from start to redline, happy riding!!!

Now you just have to fit a hi flow air filter. Cut the entire top out of you air box lid. ( I'm assuming you do not have that canon of a muffler anymore ) Fit a set of aftermarket headers. ( the oems are duel walled. What a joke. And that cat weighs a ton . )  Fit an O2 eliminator sensor. Get a PCIII or V ,  depending on you riding needs.  Did I mention getting rid of all the anti pollution crap ? Pairs system removal .There is a kit online that does that job nicely. Then after you have recovered from all that.  upgrade the brakes and suspension to cope with the extra HP that you have untapped. 

The top of the airbox may have fallen apart as I placed it on my workbench next to the angle grinder (hmmm, that induction noise is awesome).

I am interested in most of your other list

And yes, the stock cannon was removed before I got the bike, but headers do sound like a worthy upgrade

I did all that I mentioned to my Bandit.  Delkevic do the headers and I must say that they do a bloody good job. Given that they are probably made in China the workmanship was tops. The whole idea is to let the engine breathe. More air coming in and going out. I did have the lean factor to deal with then, hence I got a PCIII.  Best of luck with it. The Bandits are a great bike to potter with.

Once you have undone all the pipes and connectors (less the throttle cables) with a little jiggling and the appropriate swear words you can get the compete throttle body assemble out on the right side, just hold back the air box assembly with occy straps or the like.  This way you have much easier access to the butterflys on all four bodies.  PS put a rag behind the throttle bodies to stop them scratching the motor:



BTW, welcome to the Bandit Grinners Club

turbo_brian wrote:
This was painful to say the least (sorry no photos, I forgot to remove my phone while taking a hot-tub dip, so byebye phone, dont believe samsung when they say the S5 is "water proof", it's friggin not!!).

In relation to your phone,  assuming you haven't tried this already.

Firstly take the back cover off and let everything dry in the sun.  Then get a large jar and fill it with rice,  place the phone in the middle of the rice,  put the lid back on and let it sit for a few days. 

The rice draws out the moisture. 

If you're lucky,  the phone might come good.

With the phone, it lost all power, screen, response initially. I immediately placed it in a bag with rice covering it, this drew a heap of moisture out, it powers on now, charges the battery, but reboots every 60 - 90 seconds, I left it on for a little bit, to warm the battery, then unplugged everything and placed it back in the bag of rice (now warm, hopefully it will cause the remaining moisture to evaporate a bit, and the rice will draw it away.

will leave the phone in the bag for another day, then re-test

I would think that putting it in a hottub with the jets going would exceed the IP67 rating.

Even so I'm not testing my S5

If you leave it in the rice long enough a little asian man will come along and fix it for you

Quick dry solution (overnight) If you know a science teacher, or are pretty handy. 

Drying under vacuum (science equipment solution) - put the phone/watch (or whatever) in a bell jar (minus battery you would have taken this out straightaway) - attach vacuum pump. evacuate all air - the water will boil off.  leave a couple of hours. let the air back in, pump the pressure back down.  Leave for another few hours.  Reduce the vacuum.  Other people would do this once,  and just leave it overnight.  I usually would just set this up in the morning and do it twice during the day, send them home happy.    

I'd do this a couple of times of year for people I knew when I was in the game - it was usually watches, fogged on the inside after immersion.   

You might be able to achieve the same result with one of those little hand vacuum pumps, but I had a bell jar and a motorised one at work.  The problem at home would be finding a suitable chamber.  I'd be comfortable with a short length of 4 inch pipe with a couple of threaded end caps and a fitting on one end, Teflon tape to seal. Watch the gauge on the hand pump.  If it falls, you have not got a perfect seal.  You might be able to get the same result using a compressor intake as a vacuum source. 

It's a fiddle to cobble up a solution.  Weigh against the potential cost of a new phone.  Worth a try.  

I've not done this with batteries - there may be a potential for them to "blow up" under large vacuum.

Another way - similar in principle to the rice method, but more effective - Silica gel - This stuff that comes in little bags with electronic gear, or in pills. These can be reused if dried first.  Dry in a warm oven. place in a a closed container with the item to be dried.  It can be bought from chemical supply houses - looks like beads.  Changes colour when dehydrated/rehydrated