Removal of the secondary butterflies

what are the pros and cons to removing the secondary butterflies

Anyone done this and what were the results overall

stan2nz wrote:what are the pros and cons to removing the secondary butterflies

Anyone done this and what were the results overall

Search Results Plenty of info on the link.

Pros - Throttle response, computer can't tell you what to do. Wheelies

Cons - Bit tricky to do. Less engine brake

Easy peezy. Follow the guides. You will need to remap or fit a fuel controller. 

Much more power up top, as in 20hp.

This gives the outline of how to do it. http://www.holeshot.com/suzuki/bandit/650-1250/products/efi-supertune-pro

I have a Supertune for sale.

tell me more and how much

stan2nz wrote:tell me more and how much

Its the same one I linked to above. Had it in for 6 months but looking at headwork and cams so going down the flash path. 

For a kiwi I will sell it for $280 and help with fitting and setting if you are in Auckland. 

I have the stage 2 and stage 2 full system settings so you will need to remove the secondry butterflys, O2 sensor, fit a K&N filter and cut the back off the airbox lid.

NZspokes wrote:You will need to remap or fit a fuel controller. 

Yeah - Nah!
Haven't had secondaries in for 3 years now, no issues at all

madmax wrote:

NZspokes wrote:You will need to remap or fit a fuel controller. 

Yeah - Nah!
Haven't had secondaries in for 3 years now, no issues at all

Ive just taken my fuel controller out and its on the stock computer until the dyno tomorrow. The bike has lost significant power. Top end is dead. 

NZspokes wrote:

madmax wrote:

NZspokes wrote:You will need to remap or fit a fuel controller. 

Yeah - Nah!
Haven't had secondaries in for 3 years now, no issues at all

Ive just taken my fuel controller out and its on the stock computer until the dyno tomorrow. The bike has lost significant power. Top end is dead. 

probably because your used to the performance you had with the fuel controller. Removing the butterflies alone is not enough to need a fuel controller, certainly not in my experience anyway.

This is the difference between just pulling them out and leaving it and getting it tuned. Fuel curve was backwards for it. Fuel added up top and removed down low. 

https://www.facebook.com/brmmotorcycles/posts/699015690260526

I can only speak for my own experience and that of several others who have removed the secondaries and not need to add aftermarket ECUs unless doing additional modifications.

Another alternative...pin them open using the ECU, https://www.woolichracing.com/products/suzuki/gsf-1250-bandit/2008/2008-suzuki-gsf-1250-bandit-ecu-flashing.aspx#productTable , seeing as how you need a fueling solution anyway

Bike is going in for 24000k service tomorrow, thinking of getting the guys to remove the secondary butterflies while they're in there. 

I'm assuming that the TB needs to be removed to do the shims? Also, once the TB is out is it possible to remove the airbox?

rodent4 wrote:Bike is going in for 24000k service tomorrow, thinking of getting the guys to remove the secondary butterflies while they're in there. 

I'm assuming that the TB needs to be removed to do the shims? Also, once the TB is out is it possible to remove the airbox?

I'm 99.99% certain you won't need to do the shims, but that's up to you

madmax wrote:

rodent4 wrote:Bike is going in for 24000k service tomorrow, thinking of getting the guys to remove the secondary butterflies while they're in there. 

I'm assuming that the TB needs to be removed to do the shims? Also, once the TB is out is it possible to remove the airbox?

I'm 99.99% certain you won't need to do the shims, but that's up to you

I'm 100% sure that you are 99.99% correct 

I had cams installed at 12000k's so they should be ok, but do they still have to remove the tappet cover to check anyway?

And does the TB come out when they check?

No it doesn't.

Unless you hit the limit a lot no need for valve clearances. Just doing my 42k service now on my 10 year old 1250. No problems thus far

rodent4 wrote:Bike is going in for 24000k service tomorrow, thinking of getting the guys to remove the secondary butterflies while they're in there. 

I'm assuming that the TB needs to be removed to do the shims? Also, once the TB is out is it possible to remove the airbox?

You should remove the butterfleis, especially if you have camshafts installed (yoshimura? ) .They are holding you at least 7hp on top.
Removing or not the throttle bodies depends. The throttle cables are the problem. You can avoid removing it. And for last question yes.

Bandakias wrote:

rodent4 wrote:Bike is going in for 24000k service tomorrow, thinking of getting the guys to remove the secondary butterflies while they're in there. 

I'm assuming that the TB needs to be removed to do the shims? Also, once the TB is out is it possible to remove the airbox?

You should remove the butterfleis, especially if you have camshafts installed (yoshimura? ) .They are holding you at least 7hp on top.
Removing or not the throttle bodies depends. The throttle cables are the problem. You can avoid removing it. And for last question yes.

Thanks for chiming in bro, just this arvo I was read a thread of yours over on UKBandit   

Yes, Yoshimura cams, Arrow headers and Akra can.

For the record, have you take it for dyno? I presume stock compression.

Dyno last year, made 118 hp@9200 at the wheel and 113 Max torque@6300.

rodent4 wrote:Dyno last year, made 118 hp@9200 at the wheel and 113 Max torque@6300.

 Not much, i was expecting more. I believe without butterflies and open airbox you should be around 130. Your dyno chart must have a big hole at 7000 to 9000 rpm.

Bandakias wrote:

rodent4 wrote:Dyno last year, made 118 hp@9200 at the wheel and 113 Max torque@6300.

 Not much, i was expecting more. I believe without butterflies and open airbox you should be around 130. Your dyno chart must have a big hole at 7000 to 9000 rpm.

You're right on the money    So you think Butterflies and airbox work will straighten out the line a bit?

Yes, imagine you should have peak power about 8000 to 8500 so in that area your dyno will be more than the 9000 spot. I believe you have adjust the fuel.
You will feel a big difference after 6500 rpm

Picked the bike up this morning. Didn't really get a chance to get much of a ride in but it is pulling substantially harder   

They cut the top out of the air box lid while it was there, not sure yet whether I like the roar or not    If not I have a spare I can fit.