Engine covers

First topic message reminder :

Seeing how the small RH cover was scratched from a failed U-e i decided to sand scratches out and polish it .Unfortunately the alloy is very
porous as you can see and does NOT polish up well at all .(the brass "Welsh plug" was used to hide the scratches)I ended up having to respray it .




If i had a black bike with gold lettering this might have tempted me


The LHS alternator cover also had a scratch thanks to a 4wd tow ball .which reversed into it .1 week old That polished up ok but the motor
being silver was not worth the effort .That will be resprayed also.
This is in polished state .

So he can get to the timing cover. I had similar on a couple of my bikes. Can you guess what mine were made of.

Gee, i wonder Saikhan ,i wonder .

I had a bit of a 'down' with mine early this year... was parked in a shopping centre and decided it was too close to a vehicle behind. It was on it's side stand so I just rolled it forward about 12" and let it rest back on the stand. Unbeknown to me the stand had come back just a few inches as I rolled the bike forward, I was still standing beside it when in fell over and luckily toward me, I tried to hold it up but hadn't been ready for it and it went down - softly I guess. The long and short of it was that I scratched the left hand crank case cover, the side of the left hand mirror and the end of the clutch lever.

Went home and polished out the scratch on the clutch lever (good as new), used a bit of wet & dry paper to polish out the scratches on the back of the mirror, then used some black paint 'dabbed' on with a sponge to give it the slightly mottled look (no one would know) and then attacked the crank case cover with the same wet and dry. The sratches were down the bottom and into the metal; I sprayed it on the bike (carefully masking everything else) with an undercoat/filler and then with some 'Holts' touch up silver spray painted the cover. I had also bought some clear lacquer to go over the touch up paint but unfortunately didn't leave enough 'curing' time before I put the clear on as the silver paint bubbled underneath when the engine got hot. So I ended up having to take it all off and starting again.

I did this about 4 times leaving longer and longer between the colour and clear finish as it kept on bubbling when I rode it and the engine became hot. In the end I left it for about a month and took the bike out quite a few times. When after this I painted it with the clear it was fine - no bubbling and no one would know that it had been over.

The paint was a excellent colour match too - so if anyone is wanting to know the Holts colour code I'll get it for you... (all my stuff is away being stored at the moment as I'm having a new garage put up and the old one is about to come down)

I'd like to know the code .The tops of the cans lie .

I'd only have the code on the top of the can - but I think I used two cans in the end due to the bubbling issue... Give me a couple of days to find it in my girlfriends garage and I'll send it off to you...

gus wrote:I'd like to know the code .The tops of the cans lie .

Gus... the paint I used was the 150g 'Holts Dupli-Colour' - Silver Grey. The Code on the cap is "DSF47"...

As I said, I think this was the second can I had to buy to do the job because I went over it about a half dozen times when I didn't leave it to fully dry out before putting the 'clear' over the top and it bubbled.

So I had to do it again and again until I learned and left it for about 3 weeks riding the bike several times to get it hot and dry it out.

Since then I've not had a problem and the colour match is as close to perfect as it can be. I used 1200 wet/dry paper (wet) to rub off the line of the masking between the original and new paint (I painted the whole of the circular side of the crank cover and masked off where the radius edge is) The clear coat over the top brings it back to the 'original' clossy finish.

Thanks for that .I have noticed Silver is very thin and likes lots of fine coats instead of one heavy coat .
How about a anti toe chop bracket to hide the unused lift lug .Cosmetic only .Also some mesh in the c\guard .


And a little one the other side .

Hey Gus, have you though about getting some right angled valve stems? The stock stems don't do your rims justice.

I have lots of times .The when i get a new tyre i forget .

I have black Ariete 90 degree valve stems. They are very nice. cost about $30.

Motion pro do very similar items as well.

My finished repaint/repairs (should have taken a before and after photo but was so pissed off with myself wanted it fixed up and covered asap) - the lighting in the garage at the time didn't do it justice either but it's all I've got..

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10\10 nice job .Its not easy with a spray can because the paint is so thin so it will spray out of the can .

gus wrote:10\10 nice job .Its not easy with a spray can because the paint is so thin so it will spray out of the can .

Isn't that the point.

And good job.

In a spray gun we would use 40% paint 60% thinners to 50%-50%.Spray cans i reckon are about 80% thinners .

gus wrote:In a spray gun we would use 40% paint 60% thinners to 50%-50%.Spray cans i reckon are about 80% thinners .

I know Gus.

I know it's out of character for me , but I was just being a smartass. Reardo is a bad influence.