Anyone using FI tuner pro?

First topic message reminder :

At this stage my Bandit's mod is only a Yoshi 77 slip on.
With 18K service, will be installing K&N air filter.

I am reading that that above combo could result in a lean fuel mix.

So.... options are... leave it as it is, or install FI tuner pro or similar.

FI tuner pro is the cheapest option. Anyone has used / installed this?
Can't find any reviews online.

Cheers
Andy

Fair enough - I know that feeling.

Drop Dale Walker @ Holeshot a line.

He's really helpful & with his setup, it's install & forget.

http://www.holeshot.com/

There are quite a few of us on here who have used the TFI with Dales settings.................. it's really brings the Bandit to life.

I was running with a April RSV4 yesterday...............& it didn't walk awayfrom me on any of the long pulls!

Hi Everyone,
I have a FI Tuner Pro fitted to my F. Installation was dead easy. I solder and heatshrink all my connections and retape it all up so it maintains that factory look. The Tuner won't give you a massive tyre smoking / chain snapping power boost. What it did give me was a solution to the surging the bike had at very light throttle / suburban street speeds. It now rides super smooth with no abrupt on/off throttle jerkyness the stock system had. I have yet to run it down the quarter to see the difference there. I'm using the maps Norbert sent me. It actually is alot smoother at part throttle than my stock FA. I like it and one will be finding its way to the FA soon.

I clipped the wire as stated in the installation instructions to disable the O2 sensor. Everything was postitive by all accounts. The bike is quite smooth and runs great!

I'm bone stock with K&N and Delkevic slip on. ATRE set @ 6th gear.

All in all- I'm very happy. This is a super simple install and like holeshot, you get great support from HealTech. Norbert is a great guy and will help you in every way he can!

Cheers!
Peter

Just curious- I am planning on removing my secondary butterflies and drilling the hole in my airbox as recomended. Has anybody done this with the Fi Tuner Pro yet? Did you find any need to make changes if so?

I've just received an email from Norbert from Healtech about the secondary butterflies.
I asked if there was a software mod avail to electronically hold the valves open rather than take to them with heat and a screwdriver.
His reply was that it was not recommended (to remove these items) and that if you are running an X-TRE, this alters the rate of which the butterflies behave anyways.
I'm leaving mine in but am looking at the airbox lid mod thing and opening up the original port only to take up the whole edge. Well that's the plan at this stage. I feel that the 650 won't see much benefit from a larger airbox intake but the 1250 does.
Also for those running the 650, the standard fuel map is pretty good but needs a tweak here and there. Norbert said peak HP won't change that much but the improvement is in the low to mid range - which is where I spend most of my time anyway and where I have noticed a large improvement to rideability and smoothness - particularly at sustained low speed like 40-50-60km/h.
The proof will be when its all dyno tuned hopefully if the money gods smile at me will be before the end of this month. I will post up once done.

I've heard the same from Norbert- he is a great guy and very patient. He did tell me though that the reason for his advice is that this is the only tested configuration they support- so they have not created a map for a bike without butterflies installed.

Just curious - but what ATRE setting are you using? I started out with the unit set @ 6, but have been advised on maxsuzuki that 4 is the best setting. Mabye its mind trickery, but I set it to 4 this morning and was able to power wheelie much easier.

Any thoughts or dyno work out there?

Hi guys..

I'm trying to install Healtech FIT-Pro, and I'm in trouble.. Manual says that I should fully cut-off wire on pin #23 (supposedly HO2Sensor).. I've checked FI System Wiring Diagram and there is that pin #23 is for Gear Position... but HO2S works on pin #12. What's gooing on? Healtech is trying to cheat me, or manual is wrong?

Regards

Daniel

daniel.wro wrote:Hi guys..

I'm trying to install Healtech FIT-Pro, and I'm in trouble.. Manual says that I should fully cut-off wire on pin #23 (supposedly HO2Sensor).. I've checked FI System Wiring Diagram and there is that pin #23 is for Gear Position... but HO2S works on pin #12. What's gooing on? Healtech is trying to cheat me, or manual is wrong?

Regards

Daniel

Hi Daniel,
I don't think that Healtech is trying to cheat you. It is more likely that wiring could be different on your bike v manual, which I believe is just a generic one.
Email them with your concerns and from my experience, you should have an answer in a day or two.

Cheers

I agree with StepAndy. I actually sent in a picture of the wiring diagram and the pin that I thought I should cut. I attached a photo of the confirmed pin by Healtech.

I've had this wire cut for 3 months now without any issue.

I also bought healtech's OBD system. Although I have not re-attached this wire to see what happens, my O2 signal is steady @ a constant voltage, tricking the computer to think that the ratio is 14.7:1 This way the computer does not try to lean out the additional fueling.

that's very strange for me.. I'll show you something:





and this wiring diagram is identical with that on my bike.

pin #23 is responsible for GP signal...

Ahh I think I found your issue!

In Healtech's instructions, for the bandit, they list "Lambda Control Wire" as "Small Connector Pin#23, Black/White"

In the service manual, as you have pointed out, the numbering beings on the large connector. I also pointed this out to Healtech.

Disconnect the battery, Remove the small connector. ON THE FACE OF THE CONNECTOR, you will see numbers- this is the number they are referring to. The photo I posted earlier today shows this. I also sent in a picture of my connector and Norbert confirms that this is the correct wire to cut.

I also TRIED to remove the connector from the assembly.... Just cut the wire far enough back where you could repair if desired.

Again- no regrets here in the US with this wire cut. Pro'lly have 1000mi on this set-up.

08k8 wrote:Ahh I think I found your issue!

In Healtech's instructions, for the bandit, they list "Lambda Control Wire" as "Small Connector Pin#23, Black/White"

In the service manual, as you have pointed out, the numbering beings on the large connector. I also pointed this out to Healtech.

Disconnect the battery, Remove the small connector. ON THE FACE OF THE CONNECTOR, you will see numbers- this is the number they are referring to. The photo I posted earlier today shows this. I also sent in a picture of my connector and Norbert confirms that this is the correct wire to cut.

I also TRIED to remove the connector from the assembly.... Just cut the wire far enough back where you could repair if desired.

Again- no regrets here in the US with this wire cut. Pro'lly have 1000mi on this set-up.

Well said 08k8. I also haven't disconnected O2 sensor for exactly same reason, confusion of the pin numbering. I was looking at the big connector and couldn't see the required wire.
It all makes sense now.
However, why is the battery disconnection required?
Cheers

I did not disconnect the battery when removing the connectors. I had no problems.

I was reading the service manual and noticed that it recommends disconnecting the battery before removing the connectors from the ECU. Just a precaution I suppose.

Currently using it but still mucking about with the maps. I've found so far that the zero map is about the best. Would've liked to known about the Dobeck system thought first.

Hang on. Your telling me that I have cut the wrong wire. I've cut the black/white wire small connector pin23. So which one is it?

you have cut the correct wire.

Small connector. Looking at the end that plugs into the ECU marked #23. It is a black wire with white stripe.

Thanks for that. I started to panic there for a minute.

Ok. Lets start from the beginning. Backfiring on the downshift under load is caused by a too RICH mixture. Unburnt fuel explodes in the headers as the exhaust valve opens. When you throw on a slip-on muffler, The ecu throws in more fuel because the o2 sensor senses a lean mix due to the amount of flow through. (from intake to muffler outlet) So it signals the ecu to add more fuel. When you install the FI Tuner and add the right map, you have control over what the mixture is.
I did a 245k run today and the first block on the fuel guage went at 84ks second went at 143, third went at 200ks. I got home at 245ks with two blocks left when the last one flashes, I know I have 50ks left. And, No, it's not running too lean. I have no backfiring, just pure grunt. But it will gulp down the fuel if I'm savage on the throttle.

Kaupy have you blocked the pair system to stop backfireing ?

No Gus. I haven't had to. Since I've install the tuner there is no backfiring.

Backfiring on downshift under load ??

Yes. It was. But not now. My honda 900 did it as well straight after I put a Transac 4into1 exhaust on it. Although, the 900 had shutoff diaphragms in the carbies to shut off all fuel supply on the downshift. Mine were stuffed though. After a long discussion with Dynojet, they explained why I was getting the backfire, or popping in the exhaust whenever I downshifted. After throwing the muffler away as suggested,(because the outlet hole was 5/8"( i built my own) ), installing much bigger jets, tearing out the original airbox and fitting air pods, I got much more power and much better fuel economy without the backfiring.

I'd still be blocking the pair system seeing as its so easy and no cost .

Yeah , I probably will end up doing that. There's actually a kit you can buy for about $80 that blocks it of and it still looks original.