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17 Tooth Counter Shaft Sprocket, anybody tried it?

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17 Tooth Counter Shaft Sprocket, anybody tried it? - Page 2 Empty 17 Tooth Counter Shaft Sprocket, anybody tried it?

Post  johnpom Sat 07 Aug 2010, 2:13 pm

First topic message reminder :

I'm glad I found this forum as its full of helpful stuff.
I'm considering reducing my engine sprocket to 17 tooth as I hear it improves speed but reduces top speed which I rearly use. Has any one tried this? Rolling Eyes


Last edited by johnpom on Sat 07 Aug 2010, 2:15 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : spelling mistake)
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Post  Ewok1958 Sat 02 Jun 2012, 7:32 pm

I have a Healtech speedo healer fitted. It simply plugs into an existing socket so fitment is simple. It puts a small box into the circuit (with a lead) which can be put under the seat or somewhere else (it's only about the size of a matchbox). There are a couple of buttons on the box which either add or subtract (take your pick) a percentage of the signal being sent to the speedo - it is easy to program via the buttons.

Use can use a GPS set or anything else that you wish to determine how far out your speedo is. Mine was reado 6.5kms high at 100kmph. I set the speedo healer to -4.5% to keep a couple of k's up my sleeve. But you can set it to take out the full 6.5% error if you want. You can change it at any time, it's only a matter of pressing a few buttons. With a 4.5% correction I've never had any problems with speed cameras, radar guns, etc.

But, the standard Bandit odo is pretty correct as it is as standard (despite the speedo error) and the healer affects the odo reading as well as the speedo. Just keep that in mind when doing oil changes and planning distances. It's no big deal but if you're quoting fuel economy just be aware of it.
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Post  NZspokes Sat 02 Jun 2012, 7:42 pm

Ewok1958 wrote:I have a Healtech speedo healer fitted. It simply plugs into an existing socket so fitment is simple. It puts a small box into the circuit (with a lead) which can be put under the seat or somewhere else (it's only about the size of a matchbox). There are a couple of buttons on the box which either add or subtract (take your pick) a percentage of the signal being sent to the speedo - it is easy to program via the buttons.

Use can use a GPS set or anything else that you wish to determine how far out your speedo is. Mine was reado 6.5kms high at 100kmph. I set the speedo healer to -4.5% to keep a couple of k's up my sleeve. But you can set it to take out the full 6.5% error if you want. You can change it at any time, it's only a matter of pressing a few buttons. With a 4.5% correction I've never had any problems with speed cameras, radar guns, etc.

But, the standard Bandit odo is pretty correct as it is as standard (despite the speedo error) and the healer affects the odo reading as well as the speedo. Just keep that in mind when doing oil changes and planning distances. It's no big deal but if you're quoting fuel economy just be aware of it.

Cheers. I see now. I have a bicycle speedo set off the front wheel and ive measured wheel size to set it. Yet to ride with it on this bike yet. Will see how far out it is.

Another question then, can you buy speedo faces in km? Mines MPH with ks on the inside and hard to read.
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Post  car_ham Sat 10 Nov 2012, 10:11 pm

While an old post, I thought I'd add my 20 cents worth. I previously dropped one on the front of my non LAMS GSX650 and preferred it hands down. After riding my first half long ride on the GSX1250 (200km each way) I decided I'd do the same. Went to a 17 front today, and was impressed straight up. Around town at 60km I used to stay in 3rd, by dropping one I found town riding in 4th ideal, overall slight drop in RPM. Went for a short 100km/h run and again liked the feel, not really much of a difference in revs, however took the bike out of the engine vibration felt at 100km/h. Only problem is the chain really needs a link removed, as rear is nearly at it's limit of adjustment. Will do this next weekend.

Speedo Healer sorted out the speedo error.
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Post  gus Sun 11 Nov 2012, 9:02 am

I did both ,the 17 sprocket and the link removal .I loved it , but .

If your doing day trips its a winner .However if your doing 900kls a day for 3 days in a row (as i did ) its a bit revy . I used a 18 front and one

larger on the back for the trip and was glad i did .I was going to change back on return but i'm happy with it .I wanted 2 more teeth at the back but couldnt get it on short notice .Glad i went with 1 .

A smaller front will wear the chain out quicker so play with the back

Or

Short trips GOOD long trips not so good .
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Post  Kiwisteve Sun 11 Nov 2012, 9:13 am

car_ham wrote: Only problem is the chain really needs a link removed, as rear is nearly at it's limit of adjustment. Will do this next weekend.

.

Just reading this, I think you should replace the rear sprocket & chain too. Going by what Gus has said, the 17t sprocket only makes 1 mark difference on the chain adjuster guide. Sounds like your chain is near stuffed.
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Post  car_ham Sun 11 Nov 2012, 10:26 pm

Kiwisteve wrote:
car_ham wrote: Only problem is the chain really needs a link removed, as rear is nearly at it's limit of adjustment. Will do this next weekend.

.

Just reading this, I think you should replace the rear sprocket & chain too. Going by what Gus has said, the 17t sprocket only makes 1 mark difference on the chain adjuster guide. Sounds like your chain is near stuffed.


The bike is brand new, only just ticked over 1000km, it was already just past the half way mark on adjustment when new. Nearly as if the chain was too long in the first place.
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Post  gus Sun 11 Nov 2012, 10:59 pm

Fitting a 17 front and removing a link pulls the axil a lot foward .(good ) Its more like 3 links .Be careful its more than you think .

You carnt take one link out and replace it .Well you can ,but it ends up the same length .
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Post  Kiwisteve Mon 12 Nov 2012, 6:44 am

car_ham wrote:
Kiwisteve wrote:
car_ham wrote: Only problem is the chain really needs a link removed, as rear is nearly at it's limit of adjustment. Will do this next weekend.

.

Just reading this, I think you should replace the rear sprocket & chain too. Going by what Gus has said, the 17t sprocket only makes 1 mark difference on the chain adjuster guide. Sounds like your chain is near stuffed.


The bike is brand new, only just ticked over 1000km, it was already just past the half way mark on adjustment when new. Nearly as if the chain was too long in the first place.

Oh, yep, it does sound like it was a little long from new!
Carry on then Smile
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Post  2wheelsagain Mon 12 Nov 2012, 11:46 am

Kiwisteve wrote:
car_ham wrote:
Kiwisteve wrote:
car_ham wrote: Only problem is the chain really needs a link removed, as rear is nearly at it's limit of adjustment. Will do this next weekend.

.

Just reading this, I think you should replace the rear sprocket & chain too. Going by what Gus has said, the 17t sprocket only makes 1 mark difference on the chain adjuster guide. Sounds like your chain is near stuffed.


The bike is brand new, only just ticked over 1000km, it was already just past the half way mark on adjustment when new. Nearly as if the chain was too long in the first place.

Oh, yep, it does sound like it was a little long from new!
Carry on then Smile


I'm at 30,000km and not at the half way mark yet.

I do believe the specs for chain adjustment are too tight though. Not that mine is slack I just didnt like how tight the chain was when adjusted "properly" with weight on the bike.
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Post  Ewok1958 Mon 12 Nov 2012, 12:13 pm

My chain was also at or just past the halfway mark when the bike was brand new (2010 1250s). It (and the original sprockets) are now at 38,000kms and I haven't run out of adjustment, so they wear pretty slowly. I expect I'll replace them at the 42,000kms service.
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