How often do I need to change the timing chain - tensioner - front fork oil - air cleaner - etc

I know this has probably been asked before but for some reason my search function is not working.
My bike will have 70 000 klm on it in about 2 weeks and I was wondering if any one knew when I need to change the items above and other critical items. I do the engine oil every 10 000 and chain and tyres when they are worn but the others I have no idea at what intervals are recommended, please someone . . .

The air cleaner recommended changes are 18,000 km ( or earlier if dirty ) / the fork oil has no recommended interval , but probably by 50,000 km would be ok / the cam chain etc will depend on how you ride , but would expect it to get a bit noisy if on the way out . If it were me . & it still sounded ok I would still think about changing it around the 70,000 km to 80,000 km mark. Probably a good idea to re-grease & tension steering head bearings every 20,000 - 25,000km as well & swing-arm bearings about 25,000 km .You can usually check out your wheel bearings when you change your tires to see how they're going.
They recommend brake & clutch fluid every 2 years as well , but probably by 25,000 km would be good if you clock up a lot of miles .
Probably best to balance your carbies every 12,000 km & change your plugs at the same time & I usually change my oil filter when I do my oil ( every 6,000 km ).
Hope this helps .

Grease the suspension linkages ,they will be dry and the gear change pivot .That comes dry .Fork oil i'd do every 20,ooo kls just because its easy .

Is changing a timing chain a big job? Was thinking about doing mine as it rattles a bit on start up. Or is that a tensioner issue?

NZspokes wrote:Is changing a timing chain a big job? Was thinking about doing mine as it rattles a bit on start up. Or is that a tensioner issue?

I'd change the tensioner first and see if that fixes it. The chain is a much bigger job

Hmm think I am up for some big coin at my next service.
I can do engine oils and air cleaners but I'll need to get the Suzuki mechanic to do the head sets and suspension.

I dont know how many of you blokes have bandits with 70 000 klm on them but in my opinion, mine has gotten better with age and the last 5000 klm seem to have given the old Bandit extra legs.

I think you'll find that Suzuki say to change the brake LINES every 2 years!

I’m doing all fluids next service. Depending how I am for coin I might have the steering and linkages done then too.
I’ll be going for heavier fork oil and that will be 30,000km and almost 5 years. The original air filter will be replaced too.

Hi truck,

I`ve got 148000km on mine now,you don`t have to do this ,but I change my oil every 3000km,and that has been from new.My way of thinking.."clean blood,clean heart"
If I were you,i`d do it at least every 6000km,thats per specs

Cam chain,i`ve done mine every 50000km,BUT...this is a contentious issue!! Why?... Because of factors.

First being how the bike has been treated,and stretch related!

Second being the spring in your tensioner!

to give you an idea how the cam chain is,you have to pull out the tensioner to see how it is. The cam tensioner works on a spring loaded ratchet system,and if the ratchet is at the end of its stroke,this is a clear indication that it needs to be replaced.

Sometimes you can get chain slap due to the spring loosing its tension a bit,and it takes a while to go to the next click in the ratchet. You can actually push it to the next click if necessary.

If you get a manual tensioner, made APE,you can get alot of km`s out of the chain. I`ve got a lad lined up to build another engine for me,and he changed his every 90000-100000 with a manual tensioner,as they`ve got more stroke, and if you`ve seen one of the chains,their a strong bulky thing! this will be going into the new engine once built.

All bearings should be greesed at their intervals,but depending on wet weather,dusty conditions,etc

Changing the cam chain is not a huge job but you need good nerves and DONT drop anything .

Re-Cycled wrote:I think you'll find that Suzuki say to change the brake LINES every 2 years!

My oem service manual says fluid @ 2 years & lines @ 4 years for the 1200gsf 2001 onward
This may help with service intervals

madmax wrote:

NZspokes wrote:Is changing a timing chain a big job? Was thinking about doing mine as it rattles a bit on start up. Or is that a tensioner issue?

I'd change the tensioner first and see if that fixes it. The chain is a much bigger job

Motor can stay in for a chain change? rocker cover and sump off?

But was thinking of getting an APE tensioner.

The rattle is just for a bit when she starts so not to worried but will look into it soon.

Narcolepsy wrote:I have to disagree with doing the brake and clutch fluid based on kilometres. That hydraulic fluid goes bad over time, and using it doesn't change that much. Every 2 years is fine as long as you look in the window every servicing and makes sure it still looks clear (or close to). If it starts to look dirty in any way, change it early because water has found its way in somehow.

I got a dud bit of hose to go from the reservoir to the master cylinder on my RGV. It let water in through tiny pores and the fluid went brown in 3 months. Not happy.

I think you misread what I said / the service manual says 2 years , but I suggested more frequently if he was clocking up a lot of mileage, but yes , it's a good idea to keep an eye on it as well .

gus wrote:Changing the cam chain is not a huge job but you need good nerves and DONT drop anything .

As in dont drop anything into the motor? Or small bits of the motor?

NZspokes wrote:

gus wrote:Changing the cam chain is not a huge job but you need good nerves and DONT drop anything .

As in dont drop anything into the motor? Or small bits of the motor?

I would say into the motor would be the bigger problem

Been lookin for the ape manual tensioner but no 1 seems to sell them, any 1 got a link to anyone that imports them
any info would B good.

gazzar wrote:Been lookin for the ape manual tensioner but no 1 seems to sell them, any 1 got a link to anyone that imports them
any info would B good.

Evilbay. Choose worldwide in the search option.

I have read that the manual tensioner needs constant attention, not something you can leave for the next 10k/20k service. Certainly not difficult to back off a lock nut and nit up the tensioner bolt - but - you will have to be disciplined about checking it regularly.

rolls wrote:

gazzar wrote:Been lookin for the ape manual tensioner but no 1 seems to sell them, any 1 got a link to anyone that imports them
any info would B good.

Evilbay. Choose worldwide in the search option.

I have read that the manual tensioner needs constant attention, not something you can leave for the next 10k/20k service. Certainly not difficult to back off a lock nut and nit up the tensioner bolt - but - you will have to be disciplined about checking it regularly.

buy direct from APE, go to their site..,

www.aperaceparts.com

Send them an email like i`ve done in the past,and they`ll sort you out.

they have to be checked like a service item,because as the name surgests..manual..very easy to adjust.

I just looked up one of my emails,and they are $51.65,and $3 for a gasket plus post,now my post was going to cost $60 US cause i was also buying new rocker arms and adjustable cam sprockets,so it will be cheaper I would assume for the tensioner alone.

By the way,this is for oil cooled, and when you look up engine parts,most of the listings are under 1986-1990 GSXR1100,as they are basically the same engine

Thanks guys 4 the feedback much appreciated.