Has anyone removed there secondarys

Has anyone removed there secondary throttle valves.
Is there a good power jump from the mod.
Is it still a nice bike to ride around town or a track bike only mod.
I like to do my own mods, but i'm no mechanic. so is it a big job?

Yes I have, it returns a large increase in throttle response, you get a topend; instead of it tapering off above 6500-7000 rpm, the bike now pulls through to the cutoff. First time you ride it the extra response is very noticable, after a couple of rides you have adapted, the extra 3000 rpm top end comes in handy around here; I had a very very slight surge at about 3500-4000 rpm which it removed; the surge was so slight I didnt realise it was there until I removed the secondaries and it left.
It is a bit of a tricky operation to perform as you have to remove the throttle bodies; you will want to remove and bench the bodies, the screws in the plates are tiny and loctited in, once you refit the throttle bodies be sure to balance them.

Dink

Dink.1170 wrote:Yes I have, it returns a large increase in throttle response, you get a topend; instead of it tapering off above 6500-7000 rpm, the bike now pulls through to the cutoff. First time you ride it the extra response is very noticable, after a couple of rides you have adapted, the extra 3000 rpm top end comes in handy around here; I had a very very slight surge at about 3500-4000 rpm which it removed; the surge was so slight I didnt realise it was there until I removed the secondaries and it left.
It is a bit of a tricky operation to perform as you have to remove the throttle bodies; you will want to remove and bench the bodies, the screws in the plates are tiny and loctited in, once you refit the throttle bodies be sure to balance them.

Dink

Thanks Dink, what do mean by balance them?

Removal of BF's You don't need to do the last step tho. Credit to Dale at Holeshot.

balance/sync of TB's I'm pretty sure the info is in there somewhere

It looks the same synchronising carbs, I used just a U shaped plastic tube, you don't need the fancy balancers to balance carbs all you need to do is get 1 and 2 the same then 3 and 4 and then either of the first pair to either of the second pair.If the adjusters work the same, it could work on the fuel injection. I'd be happy to explain in more detail if required. You definitely want fans running on the oil cooled ones, I found.
I don't know if its comparable but my brother had good success on his SV1000 by balancing the voltage on the airflow sensors. I don't know if the 1250's fuel injection system is the same. I would be happy to get the detail from my brother if anyone is interested, it may be posted on the SV forum.

dhula wrote:Removal of BF's You don't need to do the last step tho. Credit to Dale at Holeshot.

balance/sync of TB's I'm pretty sure the info is in there somewhere

SO IF THE BALANCE IS OK BEFORE I REMOVE THE BUTTERFLYS, WILL THE BALANCE BE OK AFTER I REMOVE THEM?

any change to the air flow will have an effect on the balance. how much - who really knows until it's checked, each engine will be different.

check it to be sure.

doesn't take long and is not hard to do.

Disclaimer:
Before I start I have to say that I have taken all care to create this how to but I will not take any responsibility if you decide to use this info to do it yourself and cock it up causing the bike to have to visit a shop for repairs.
If you are not confident - DON'T DO IT

I should add this is done on a GSX650F but it's the same for the bandit

1. Create a lot of slack in the throttle cable. Your user manual will show you how to do this adjustment
2. Remove the RH side cover and find the dealer plug.

3. Remove the protective cap form the dealer plug and put the bike into dealer mode. I use a split pin (you'll notice I have covered the end of it to reduce the chance of shorts) but you can buy a dealer switch from Suzuki at a price around $30 AUD. NOTE: If the pic below dos not make sence for the pin location please say so and I'll explain it better.

4. Remove the tank (you user manual should show you how). to expose the inner workings

5. Locate the IAP sensor

You need to unplug this and remove it with the hoses that are attached to it. This is what you are removing

You can just unplug the IAP sensor and disconnect all the hoses from the engine (those small barbs on the engine will become the test points for the balance tool) but I've said to remove it all so it is easier to see what you are doing, that's all
3. Hook up your balancing tool. I use a Morgan carbtune as I find it the easiest to use and there is no maintenance that goes with it. It is up to you what you use tho.
Locate the adjusting screws for each TB. Here is a pic of cylinder 2

and cylinder 3

Use a torch and take your time, you will find them.
6. Make some kind of thing up to hold your tank above the bike so you can access the adjusters while the bike is running. Here is what mine looks like all ready to go. Nothing pretty, but it works and is safe and secure.

7. Hook up the tank and start the bike. You will a code in the dash that is -C13. This is the code for the IAP you disconnected in step 2 and is perfectly normal. You now need to wait until the bike cooling fan kicks in. This ensures your bike is warmed up enough to do the adjustments. I also use a small fan to blow air onto the radiator and help move exhaust fumes out of my shed. I recommend you do this also as it will get quite hot in there.
This is what mine looked like at first start up

and after it was warm

So you can see I needed to do mine.
8. Adjust each adjusting screw (cylinder) to end up looking similar to this. (Mines not spot on as I still need to run the bike in and I'll be doing it again after the first service. It is better than before tho)

cheers

Yup that should pretty much explain it. Like WOW!! dhula well done

Dink

dhula wrote:any change to the air flow will have an effect on the balance. how much - who really knows until it's checked, each engine will be different.

check it to be sure.

doesn't take long and is not hard to do.

Disclaimer:
Before I start I have to say that I have taken all care to create this how to but I will not take any responsibility if you decide to use this info to do it yourself and cock it up causing the bike to have to visit a shop for repairs.
If you are not confident - DON'T DO IT

I should add this is done on a GSX650F but it's the same for the bandit

1. Create a lot of slack in the throttle cable. Your user manual will show you how to do this adjustment
2. Remove the RH side cover and find the dealer plug.

3. Remove the protective cap form the dealer plug and put the bike into dealer mode. I use a split pin (you'll notice I have covered the end of it to reduce the chance of shorts) but you can buy a dealer switch from Suzuki at a price around $30 AUD. NOTE: If the pic below dos not make sence for the pin location please say so and I'll explain it better.

4. Remove the tank (you user manual should show you how). to expose the inner workings

5. Locate the IAP sensor

You need to unplug this and remove it with the hoses that are attached to it. This is what you are removing

You can just unplug the IAP sensor and disconnect all the hoses from the engine (those small barbs on the engine will become the test points for the balance tool) but I've said to remove it all so it is easier to see what you are doing, that's all
3. Hook up your balancing tool. I use a Morgan carbtune as I find it the easiest to use and there is no maintenance that goes with it. It is up to you what you use tho.
Locate the adjusting screws for each TB. Here is a pic of cylinder 2

and cylinder 3

Use a torch and take your time, you will find them.
6. Make some kind of thing up to hold your tank above the bike so you can access the adjusters while the bike is running. Here is what mine looks like all ready to go. Nothing pretty, but it works and is safe and secure.

7. Hook up the tank and start the bike. You will a code in the dash that is -C13. This is the code for the IAP you disconnected in step 2 and is perfectly normal. You now need to wait until the bike cooling fan kicks in. This ensures your bike is warmed up enough to do the adjustments. I also use a small fan to blow air onto the radiator and help move exhaust fumes out of my shed. I recommend you do this also as it will get quite hot in there.
This is what mine looked like at first start up

and after it was warm

So you can see I needed to do mine.
8. Adjust each adjusting screw (cylinder) to end up looking similar to this. (Mines not spot on as I still need to run the bike in and I'll be doing it again after the first service. It is better than before tho)

cheers

Excellent

Where do i get a carbtune from? i don't think Broken Hill has a shop that sells that kind of thing.

I think i've learnt more from this forum then i have in the last 30years.

I like to do things my self, so thanks for the help. i don't blame other people 4 my stuff ups.
Its hard to stuff things up with such good advise.
THANK YOU

Morning, all

Last time I did my TB Balance, I used the Holeshot "suck on the IAP pipe and crimp it" method. Problems with that is uneven idle and stalling until you get the vacuum correct.
Even with all of those problems, I eventually got the balance to a much better level than what it was from the dealers. The dealer uses the SDS to balance. IMO, the Bandit needs a good mechanical balance before the electronic balance is truely effective.

Dhula, obviously no idle or stalling issues with removing the IAP altogether from what you are describing, so well done on a great How-To.

OZBANDIT1250 - carbtune available here I ordered mine on line and it got here in about a week from memory. I think the price in total was about $120 ish but that was when the exchange rate was really shit compared to now.

Dmaxhall - no probs with idle at all. I've tried the 'suck and pinch' way and think it is not the best way. If you remove the IAP sensor it forces a default value no matter the engine speed/load. Suck and pinch is very hit and miss IMO. Using a vac pump is potentially uncool due to the chance you could apply too much vacuum to the sensor and damage it. Just my opinion tho.
I also use this when balancing and messing with fuel loadings as I find it makes things a little more constant.

OZBANDIT1250 wrote:Excellent

Where do i get a carbtune from? i don't think Broken Hill has a shop that sells that kind of thing.

I think i've learnt more from this forum then i have in the last 30years.

I like to do things my self, so thanks for the help. i don't blame other people 4 my stuff ups.
Its hard to stuff things up with such good advise.
THANK YOU

http://www.carbtune.co.uk/
Direct from Morgan is the best way

Dink

Dmaxhall wrote:The dealer uses the SDS to balance. IMO, the Bandit needs a good mechanical balance before the electronic balance is truely effective.

They don't "use" SDS to balance the TB's, a balancing gauge of some description still needs to be used. most dealers I know will use an electronic gauge as it can give more accurate info than the mechanical type. In some cases you can get gear that can show lots of info to the trained eye like sticky valves and such.

Dealers use SDS to set the ISC to a set point so it does not try to adjust engine speed while they mess with things.
using the info i posted above the only difference between it and a dealer is they hook up SDS and set the ISC (called "active control" by some) but they don't set this until the engine coolant temp is up to spec (over 80 degrees C)

dhula wrote:OZBANDIT1250 - carbtune available here I ordered mine on line and it got here in about a week from memory. I think the price in total was about $120 ish but that was when the exchange rate was really shit compared to now.

Dmaxhall - no probs with idle at all. I've tried the 'suck and pinch' way and think it is not the best way. If you remove the IAP sensor it forces a default value no matter the engine speed/load. Suck and pinch is very hit and miss IMO. Using a vac pump is potentially uncool due to the chance you could apply too much vacuum to the sensor and damage it. Just my opinion tho.
I also use this when balancing and messing with fuel loadings as I find it makes things a little more constant.

Yup, the Morgan Carbtune is easy to use and the delivery from England is very fast.

Dhula, so, you did end up buying the BikeTech gear. I have seen a mob in OZ selling their stuff now. Have you used any of their other equipment?

I have

Fuel adjuster can only be used on post 2007 Suzuki tho. IMO slightly better than yoshie box but cannot "catch" settings already loaded to ECU so need to start from scratch. You can save your work tho to reproduce on any bike at any time. IMO Easier to use also
isc tool Great tool for home user IMO, but not really needed as you can get by without it.
OBD tool I'm using this instead of SDS as I couldn't get a copy of the software or the box. It can't do what SDS does by way of turning things on and off but from what I do know about SDS it can read some things SDS can't. I could be wrong tho as I've never personally used SDS. It being usefull for other brands of bike is handy also.

am considering

balance tool

but not sure yet as morgan carbtune is pretty good for what I do so far.