Adjusting rear suspension

Hi guys, I'm on the scrounge for advice again!

Is there a trick to adjusting the rear suspension easily? I want to go from preload position 4 to 5 and I can't turn the C-spanner. I've got a standard length one that I can put an extension bar on but that won't turn far enough without hitting the rear footpeg hangers and I've got a shortened one that will fit one notch further around inside the frame ... but I'm not strong enough to rotate it (tendonitis due to excessive rock climbing, honestly!)

I upped the preload on the front forks by a half-turn and that helped with the pulsing suspension under braking (thanks to whoever gave me that idea - I can't find the post any more) but now the back feels too soft with a passenger on.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Have you got it on the centre stand or side stand,try it on both , they can be a bugger of a thing. When i had the original shock on, i used an extension. Or better yet,get rid of it, and get a better shock.

Yeah, I tried both stands, can't shift it a millimetre. A guy at Suzuki HK turned it up from 3 to 4 with a shortened C-spanner so I figure he just knew how to put the load on ... mind you, he was a big bloke!

I had mine adjusted as part of the pre delivery as I had heard they're a prick to do later.
If you hit the foot peg hangers they're easy to take off.

This is bad design, pure and simple. If the suspension needs to be adjusted for different loads, it's essential for the manufacturer to provide a method that can be used "in the field", i.e. without going back to the dealer or needing some kind of special tool that won't fit under the seat!

Theres no real trick but brute force. Like i said, i used an extension,i couldn`t do it with out it. Had to bugger around for a bit to get it in the right place with an extension though.

Remove left footpeg hanger . 3 bolts . Take note where the rubber washers go .1 at top front 2 at back from memory .Spray shock top with wd40- spanner needs extension .PUT ON LEATHER BIKE GLOVE Swear at it when it moves .

There an antiquated system,hence why i got rid of it. You really can`t set perfect preload on them. If you keep that shock on it,find you happy medium and leave it.

HKJohn wrote:This is bad design, pure and simple. If the suspension needs to be adjusted for different loads, it's essential for the manufacturer to provide a method that can be used "in the field", i.e. without going back to the dealer or needing some kind of special tool that won't fit under the seat!

You will have many more similar frustrations with this bike. They're built to a price and every shortcut was taken to get to that price.

I used t take the pillion peg hanger off and use a 3 foot long cheater bar.
Easy peasy.

Found the happy medium between me with nothing on and fully loaded with pillion on the back and left it at that, then just messed with the rebound adjuster when I felt the urge.

Now I just play with a knob if I need some more preload on the rear shock (wonder if a vee strom rear shock will fit a bandit for those on a budget)

I'm SO glad to know that it's not just me being puny! I agree with Dhula that LH hanger removal AND a cheat bar are necessary - INSANE! So I'm gonna get a piece of thick walled pipe and put a bend in it: if I point the bend towards the front of the bike, I should be able to get enough rotation to find the next notch before it hits the hanger.

Hang on, here's a new idea which I can't try right now because it's pitch black outside! You know how when you need extra torque to turn an Allen key, you put a ring spanner around it as an extender? I wonder if my huge rear axle nut ring spanner will do the same job around the C-spanner? I'll let you know ...

dhula wrote: (wonder if a vee strom rear shock will fit a bandit for those on a budget)

A GSXR1000 shock will fit, and cheaply. I bought an '08 shock, with postage from the US for AUS$88. It dropped the height of the bike by 25mm so I needed new dog bones to jack it up, $35 posted from the UK. I believe the mk2 & mk3 bandits share the same shock.

Mr Google has heaps of sites on what spring sag you should have with you on & off your bike & apart from the logistics of moving the adjustment it`s important to set it up correctly . As rudimentary as Mr Suzuki has been it is possible to obtain some similarity between the correct figures & the ones obtainable with your adjustments on your bike unless your suspension is totally shagged . I would only suggest you Google how to set spring sag on a motorcycle & have a read. Maybe a couple of extra wheetbix of a morning may help with the adjustment ( sorry couldn't help myself with that comment but you`ll get used to my warped sense of humor)

You can get enough leverage if you use the C spanner, extension and then the rear axle spanner.
You don't have to pull the pillion peg hanger but it makes it easier IMO.
Hold your tongue right and it'll all work out.

The vee strom shock idea was more for the remote preload adjuster than anything else.

If you're going to so much trouble to adjust the standard shock, why not take an extra hour or so and pull it out and throw it in the same corner of the shed as the airbox snorkel?

Seriously you don't need big dollars to get the bike handling perfectly and comfortable. I know that forum members have wildly differing degrees of mechnical know how, but this isn't fine engine surgery. I think the mob I bought mine off was sun coast cycles in Florida, but a quick look on evilbay shows dozens. 05-06 won't fit, so look for 07-08.

First page ebay search....

here is my 2c worth,
i used a long screwdriver to go up 2 notches
the cheap set you buy at bunnings
i did take the footpeg off though
1 slot at a time and that was it
was not worried if i broke the screwdriver,the whole set was about 12 bucks
did it on the centrestand

snug up the cspanner from the left side slightly in a downward angle wear some old cotton or leather gloves then head over to the right side of the bike and reach through the gap of the tyre and the swingarm and and grab the cspanner again pull it towards you that's how I did it !

Narcolepsy, you are a genius! Why couldn't I think of that, it's so beautifully simple? [Err ... perhaps I'm not a genius?] But I improved it a bit: getting the end in the hole is a lot easier if you've got a short tool:

https://picasaweb.google.com/118247452887312476157/Bandit1250CSpannerMod#

And everything still fits under the seat, no cheat bar needed! Fabulous.

Try now.

Ain't that the truth! Thanks again for the great idea.

Narcolepsy wrote:That looks different to mine. I used blutak, which didn't stick, then masking tape, which broke after a couple of uses. Now it's electrical tape, which is holding up a bit better. It's amazing how good the simple solutions can be

BRILLIANT & so simple !

it actually gets pretty easy after a bit of practice using the standard tools - c spanner then extender then the spanner thing for the rear in the other end to lengthen it. i always swing down the footpeg when increasing the load as it only takes a minute its much easier - u can leave it when going back. also i weigh about 80kg and according to the guy who set up my bike, the rear should be on position 2. With a pillion they said up one notch or two depending on weight. they also pulled the rear shock to bits and put different oil and a different valve in it as well.

I weigh about 80kg and according to the guy who set up my bike, the rear should be on position 2

When I got mine, it was on position 3 (standard) and I thought it felt terrible, wallowing all over the place. So I went to 4 and that was better but now I have it at 5 and it's so much tauter. I'm a 65 kg featherweight so I figure your bike must feel weird on position 2 with 80 kg on top.

I'd like to know what other people are using if they still have the standard shock.

HKJohn wrote:

I weigh about 80kg and according to the guy who set up my bike, the rear should be on position 2

When I got mine, it was on position 3 (standard) and I thought it felt terrible, wallowing all over the place. So I went to 4 and that was better but now I have it at 5 and it's so much tauter. I'm a 65 kg featherweight so I figure your bike must feel weird on position 2 with 80 kg on top.

I'd like to know what other people are using if they still have the standard shock.

Slot 5 on mine. Quite a bit more than 65kg though

HKJohn wrote:

I weigh about 80kg and according to the guy who set up my bike, the rear should be on position 2

When I got mine, it was on position 3 (standard) and I thought it felt terrible, wallowing all over the place. So I went to 4 and that was better but now I have it at 5 and it's so much tauter. I'm a 65 kg featherweight so I figure your bike must feel weird on position 2 with 80 kg on top.

I'd like to know what other people are using if they still have the standard shock.

mine is at 4 with just me on the bike 83 kg ( standard setting for 1250s is 4 / 3 for 1250 ) I`m wondering if yours was at 3 and if its a 1250s someone may have backed yours off & they may have also backed off your rebound which can also make a huge difference to handling . I wouldn't have thought 65 kg should have upset the suspension so maybe turn the rebound up a bit & try it .Also potatomashers suspension has been rebuilt so his settings will be different anyway .