Adjusting rear suspension

First topic message reminder :

Hi guys, I'm on the scrounge for advice again!

Is there a trick to adjusting the rear suspension easily? I want to go from preload position 4 to 5 and I can't turn the C-spanner. I've got a standard length one that I can put an extension bar on but that won't turn far enough without hitting the rear footpeg hangers and I've got a shortened one that will fit one notch further around inside the frame ... but I'm not strong enough to rotate it (tendonitis due to excessive rock climbing, honestly!)

I upped the preload on the front forks by a half-turn and that helped with the pulsing suspension under braking (thanks to whoever gave me that idea - I can't find the post any more) but now the back feels too soft with a passenger on.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I've got to admit I'm pretty ignorant about setting up suspension because most of the bikes I've ever owned had non-adjustable fronts and preload-only rears. This 1250 understeers a lot in slow corners - anybody got a quick fix?

HKJohn wrote:I've got to admit I'm pretty ignorant about setting up suspension because most of the bikes I've ever owned had non-adjustable fronts and preload-only rears. This 1250 understeers a lot in slow corners - anybody got a quick fix?

Wash the speed off before the apex and wind it on for exit. A trailing throttle makes these things handle like a pig. Same for most bik bikes actually

http://www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm

also as long as your tires & pressures are ok have a read at the above link which may help and as 2wa has just said sometimes technique can make a difference . its a fairly new bike so I doubt there would be anything wrong in that department .

ps the above link settings are a bit sport orientated so you could probably back the measurements off a bit if its a bit too harsh .

Make sure to do your ' shock sag measurements ' first, before making any adjustments to your shock.

I'm taking about REALLY slow corners, like turning right from traffic lights: it's hard work to drag it into the turn. I guess it's probably just because it's such a heavy bike.

Check your tyre pressures and profile shape.
Check your wheel alignment
Check wheel bearings for smoothness and not tightening up
Check the brakes are not dragging
Check headstem bearing for tightness or way too loose
Learn to position your body better/correctly for the intersection/slow turn

Other more dramatic things you can do to improve the suspension for what it is.
Take apart the rear end and give it a good grease in all the linkage points (check the bearings etc while you are there)

HKJohn wrote:I'm taking about REALLY slow corners, like turning right from traffic lights: it's hard work to drag it into the turn. I guess it's probably just because it's such a heavy bike.

If you are talking slow turns just drag a bit of rear brake and it turns in piece of piss. I'm with Dhula here, make sure front tyre pressure is 36psi when cold and your tyre is in good nick. If not it'll feel like a barge

Wheel alignment is the next check. My experience with the 600 Bandit taught me never to trust those marks on the chain adjuster blocks. I stuck a 2 metre straightedge against the rear tyre and measured into the front tyre with a ruler on both sides to do the job properly: the marks at the back were nowhere near symmetrical but the bike handled properly for the first time straight away. The 1250's blocks look better made ... but why trust looks?

I just brought one of these http://mototechdiagnostics.com.au/lasercat.php

Haven;t used it yet though.

BTW.. with the GSXR 1000 shock how far centre to centre are the dog bones to get the right seat height? I have a set of dog bones that are supposed to jack up the Bandit 35mm, but the dog bones when sized up with the originals I removed were only about 5mm shorter.

That is right 5mm will give you a lot more or less at the rear end .Think of to parallel straight lines and then one .5 of a mm higher 25 mm from the
start . As you travel along the line the further the distance is .

Gus, I understand it'll give more or less. I just thought it'd be a little bit more of a difference is all. I'll measure seat height when I get it all back together. I regreased the shock linkage, it was a little brown on the lowest lot of needle bearings. Why these don't have grease nipples like my dirt bike has me totally buggered.

It doesnt seem enough does it . If the height isnt exactly what you want the cheap way to do it is weld up one hole and then re-drill it where you
want .(on both sides )Cost $0 if you have a welder .

I do have a welder, but if it's not right I'll go and get some 5 mm plate and make up some of my own. They are not hard especially if you have a drill press

I have the perfect tool for adjusting the rear shock without any problems at all and getting one is generally a sh*tload of fun, it is called a son.

It works perfectly every time and yes his knuckles are healing up well thank you.

reddog wrote:BTW.. with the GSXR 1000 shock how far centre to centre are the dog bones to get the right seat height? I have a set of dog bones that are supposed to jack up the Bandit 35mm, but the dog bones when sized up with the originals I removed were only about 5mm shorter.

1mm on the shock or dog bones = 5mm ride hight. The GSXR shock dropped my bike by 25mm, so I put in dog bones to raise it 35mm, giving 10mm higher than standard ride hight. Handles perfectly, even at silly speeds.

I’m generally pretty happy with mine the way I asked for it to be set up in the pre delivery but I hit a bump on the ride to the island yesterday that knocked the wind out of me and banged my teeth together. (I can usually avoid them) The high speed dampening wasn’t up to it but I followed a ZZR1100 and a late Soft Tail from Morwell and the arse of the softie was bouncing up and down the whole time apparently without any sort of control. I’d prefer mine over that sea sickness inducing ride.

2wheelsagain wrote:I’m generally pretty happy with mine the way I asked for it to be set up in the pre delivery but I hit a bump on the ride to the island yesterday that knocked the wind out of me and banged my teeth together. (I can usually avoid them) The high speed dampening wasn’t up to it but I followed a ZZR1100 and a late Soft Tail from Morwell and the arse of the softie was bouncing up and down the whole time apparently without any sort of control. I’d prefer mine over that sea sickness inducing ride.

Easy fix -Ohlins or the like on the rear / race tech springs - revalve the front!

jaba01 wrote:

2wheelsagain wrote:I’m generally pretty happy with mine the way I asked for it to be set up in the pre delivery but I hit a bump on the ride to the island yesterday that knocked the wind out of me and banged my teeth together. (I can usually avoid them) The high speed dampening wasn’t up to it but I followed a ZZR1100 and a late Soft Tail from Morwell and the arse of the softie was bouncing up and down the whole time apparently without any sort of control. I’d prefer mine over that sea sickness inducing ride.

Easy fix -Ohlins or the like on the rear / race tech springs - revalve the front!

Comprehension isn’t a strong point

lliquidlen wrote:I have the perfect tool for adjusting the rear shock without any problems at all and getting one is generally a sh*tload of fun, it is called a son.

It works perfectly every time and yes his knuckles are healing up well thank you.

Not suggesting your son`s a tool are you ?