AFR Gauge fitted

Fitted the Air Fuel Ratio Guage today and went for a run to see what's happening. I got onto the freeway and held the throttle steady at 110. The guage was reading Just off optimal on the rich side. I'm going to put in an adapter so that I can fit the wideband sensor before the muffler rather than after it and then give it another go.[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]

Interesting - is this with stock 1250 with only mod a slip on muffler and FI Tuner Pro fitted ?

Yep. And the map recommended by healtech, only I changed the values at tps40% rpm 3500-4500 down to 4 rather than 7 10 9 5 because at exactly 110kph the tuner is at 10 which is way too rich.

there's the stock o2 sensor in the link pipe I think. Why not put the wide band in that position? You shoudl already have an o2 eliminator if you are running an aftermarket fuel controllerso you can totally remove the stock sensor anyway

Just wondering if you did a run without the FI Tuner, or with stock map selected to see what the bike is doing stock. My bike is stock except for a slip on and no tuner and honestly I can't fault the way it runs.

Fossil wrote:Just wondering if you did a run without the FI Tuner, or with stock map selected to see what the bike is doing stock. My bike is stock except for a slip on and no tuner and honestly I can't fault the way it runs.

Exactly

That was the original plan, only the wide band sensor is bigger and has a bigger thread. I didn't do a run with the Tuner off the bike but I kno that it was running rich.

Kaupy1962 wrote:I didn't do a run with the Tuner off the bike but I kno that it was running rich.

Maybe I am misunderstanding but if you are saying that the bike ran rich before fitting the Fi tuner, might I suggest you get down to someone with a plug in tuning box such as a yoshie or similar and get the fueling set back to factory before you do any more messing with the Fi tuner

With the FI Tuner you can just select the zero (original) map when you turn on the ignition.No need to remove the FIT

I didn't think the ECU could be changed from factory? I thought the factory map was flashed to the ECU's eprom? If that's the case then all I have to do to clear any faults/errors is remove the battery, and then touch the two battery leads togehter with the ignition on. When I worked at IBM in the test lab all we had to do to reset a motherboard back to factory settings and remove any system faults or viruses, was to remove the battery and short the terminals on the board. This still works with any computer that has "chucked a spaz" .

A lot of suzuki ECU's can have subttle changes done to the fueling maps via a plug in module such as the yoshie box (there is instructions out on the web on how to make one for pretty cheep), bike tech Fi adjsuter (I have this one) and the Teka fuel adjuster.
Disconnecting the battery will not remove any changes made by one of these methods from the ECU. I can't comment on the connect battery cables together and turn on ign trick but IMO best way to be sure is have the ECU put back to zero or factory with one of these or similar tools.
Setting the FIT to work on zero map will not do this as what you are doing is telling the FIT to "play dead" and not implement any adjustments however what ever settings are on the ECU are still working.
This is where those that use PC3/5 and rely on commonly used (eg: freely available via download) maps have troubles sometimes.

Oh, and if you have the right software/hardware you can hack the ECU as well, but it is most probably not the case as it is not common at all with the bandit AFAIK.

Kaupy - in my opinion - your measurement is completely useless.. and do not suggest it at all.
at first, you should do such measurements befor catalyst.. that reduces carbon monoxide to dioxide, and generally it consumes oxygen on gus burning. oxygen, that you will not be able to catch after catalyst using your sensor.... and this way you get a rich mix.
and the next thing is a weak measurement of narrowband lambda. basically it only gives simple answer - "there is too rich"/"there is too lean" - and that;s all. none meaningful data on which you can based during adjustment.
finally, you must plugged PAIR wire. PAIR pushes oxygen into exhaust system, exygen wich was not involved in the combustion process but could cheat your sensor.

last time I'm very engaged in tune-up my FI Tuner pro. If you want you can see the results below:

I've bought measuring kit of Innovate Motorsports - LC-1 + SSI-4:





and installed it on my bike:







I had to mount bigger slot for lambda sensor (m12 -> m18):





plugged PAIR wire:





and my bike was ready for testing:





the first I did was to check whether FIT works at all.. I did it in the simplest way





looks like it works...

then went on the highway to catch a bit of data samples..

and I did this:





after then I've prepared AFR map in the same resolution you got in FIT pro..




we have here a simple recipe for adjusting a FIT map (and any other PC, pure-ecu too).

and as you guys probably know the maximum power is reached at AFRs about 12.5 to 13.3:1.. so there was nothing to change.. bike is very strong and "impulsive" I like it..

now I'm going to prepare the map for tourism usage - gentle power delivery, saving fuel and the map will close to 14:1 - 14,5:1 AFR.


Regards

Daniel

And the chain makes the wheel go round .That i understand . I'm glad you guys get all that stuff so i can bring my bike to you .

Yeah but my Lambda sensor is wideband. The stock sensor on the bike is narrow band. How much did you have to fork out for all that? Looking at the FI tuner screen, set at 30 if I set mine to that, I would be pouring straight fuel out the exhaust.

Pretty sure he set all to 30 or -20 to get a bench mark and adjust up and down from there but i could be wrong. probably am

costs about ~300 buks. (LC-1 + SSI-4)

set the extreme values in order to see how much impact it does on the fuel dose.

i was half correct

[quote="daniel.wro"]we have here a simple recipe for adjusting a FIT map (and any other PC, pure-ecu too).

and as you guys probably know the maximum power is reached at AFRs about 12.5 to 13.3:1.. so there was nothing to change.. bike is very strong and "impulsive" I like it..

now I'm going to prepare the map for tourism usage - gentle power delivery, saving fuel and the map will close to 14:1 - 14,5:1 AFR.


Regards

Daniel
[/quote]

Hi Daniel, do you share your MAPS for the B1250 for the Healtech FIT pro?
Cheers,
FT

Yeah Ditto. I would like to see your final map once you get finished to compare it with mine.

Hi guys!

... a lot of fuel, kilometers and time spent on preparing FIT maps.

here you've got the results of my work..





bike runs great. it is very strong and impulsive... even too much.. I use TRE with 5th gear fixed so starting is a little uncomfortable cause of jerks, but then a ride is very enjoyable - fast acceleration, none of lack, etc..

because of TRE there is also a little bit problem with low rpms AFR regulation - too small range and resolution of adjustment provided by FIT.. finally I think about giving up of using TRE.. or reprogrramming behavior to use 1st gear map when I'm on 1st, and use 5th gear map when I'm on the rest.


Regards

Daniel

Hi Daniel,
Thank you very much for sharing the fruits of your hard (and no doubt costly) work.
Have you thoughts on how you would reprogram the logic the X-TRE uses for gear map selection?

Sorry forgot to ask, what mods your 1250 had apart from the TRE and FI Tuner? Slip-on and air filter?

I do not use healtech A-TRE.. I've bought a cheaper solution "realizing TRE" which is based on one simple resistor. TRE
exactly in the same way as G-PACK works:







so I think there should not be a problem to expand it with "additional ability". of course not by me, only by some friend with electronics skills..


Regards

Daniel

Full Throttle wrote:Sorry forgot to ask, what mods your 1250 had apart from the TRE and FI Tuner? Slip-on and air filter?

* K&N




* LeoVince SBK




* big hole in airbox cover




* TRE




and going to remove secondary butterflies and catalyst

Nice bits of kit.