Oil temperature gauge for b1200

I thought that seeing i'm using my salvage B1200 as a track bike and spending most of its ride time in the higher rev ranges this may be exceeding the cooling capabilities of the standard oil cooler and the heatsink specifications of the barrels. I don't know. I may not be.
I have only been using an infra red temp gun to test various parts of the bike for temperatures and making mental notes. I can only do this once i've returned to the pits so its not real time. So I've decided to fit an oil temperature gauge. I looked at digital ones and couldn't find one I liked for one reason or another. I like a full sweep gauge myself. Looked at alot of those too. Could spend big $ but its a bike that cost me $1500 or so and my wallet is a bit slim. Found the SAAS gauge. Has a good temperature range and looks ok. I asked the tech guys at Penrite for a recommendation for oil temperatures. Basically don't exceed 130 deg C. Any length of time up there and the oil degrades rapidly.
OK so where to put it. It's a track bike only so water resistance isn't a concern to me. Ill wrap it in plastic if I need to whilst on the trailer if it rains but I'm not about to do track days in the wet. That's just a prospect i'm not willing to explore. I'm mounting it to the screen. Screens can be easily replaced more so than drilling into other plastics or making brackets and such as I don't have many metal working tools nor a proper bench to make life fabricating easier. Anyways it's not finished. I thought some pictures will help noting the gauge is just sitting there but you get the idea. Ill update as I go along.
Cheers everyone!

To be honest, you probably don`t need it. I`ve got an oil filler cap style one, which I put on, to monitor my 1216cc, because the over sized bore, which now results in a thinner wall, so now puts the bike outside the intended engineering limits of the stock mill. It does get hotter than my stock Bandit.

If I get caught in Brisbane city traffic in summer, where I`m going no where, and absolutely dying on the bike from heat exhaustion, and feel like necking myself, for putting myself in that situation in the first place, the 1216 gets to 130* in no time at all, and stays on that, until I can get the hell out of there, and still takes along time cool down, even when I`m out of that environment.
Put the gauge on my stock 1157, same situation, and it climbs to 120*, and cools down a bit quicker.
I think this would be the most extreme, you could ever put the bike in. Zero wind flow, with maximum damage. I`d hate to think what the head temperature is when it`s like that.

If your smashing away on a summer day, for a 20min round at a circuit, you might creep to 115*, I can`t see you getting too much more than that.

I looked at one of those oil filler cap ones mtbeerwah but to my way of thinking the temperature probe should be immersed in the oil or coolant or whatever you are measuring the temperature of. The oil filler ones with the short little "bee dick" is measuring splashed oil and hot air temp.
Your thoughts?

Essentially they are. The oil is getting splashed around constantly in that position, and is getting crank oil readings, but it`s the head that worries me more, as I want good oil flow, and cooling to the cams, and I`m thinking of a secondary smaller cooler, to feed the head, but only for the 1216, not the stock, as I don`t think it needs it, in any situation.

I wonder if a temp sensor will fit in one of the cooling oil ports which I think there are 5 of on the head / valve cover?
I did take the temp of the barrel and head. What it was exactly I don't remember but it made me research the melting point of aluminium and it certainly made me mutter something. Highest temp was in the vicinity of the head gasket.

Another thing I am looking into is mounting a radiator fan from something related like the B1250 in behind the oil cooler. I just need to get a hold of one and test fit. If it fits, I could wire it up off a relay direct from the battery and use a handlebar mounted switch. Flick it on in stop start while keeping an eye on the temps. Got to help I would think.

I think the more important device to fit, is a Wideband A/F Gauge.

I bought one at Christmas, and haven`t had the time to fit it. If your going to ring the neck out of it, it`s more important to make sure your not too lean, and these things are awesome at sensing this.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/digital-wideband-uego-afr-gauge

This is what I bought.
Too lean, and the mill will run hot as well.

How much?

mmmm....not cheap!!!!

Can`t remember the exact amount, but I think it was around the high $300 something.

The positive..you can almost perfectly tune your engine, as you have real time A/F values, and if your a stickler, as I am, come winter, or any time of the year, the values will change, due to denser, or less dense air, so you can jet/tweek, accordingly.

There are dozens of digital temperature controllers some using either thermistors or thermocouples as sensors. Some, the thermocouples have an upper limit of 1600C, the thermistor units tend to have lower temperature limits.

The majority I have seen (and used) have digital displays but most also have switch contacts to operate an external light, buzzer or horn etc. so no need to look at a gauge.

Check out www.banggood.com and search for temperature controllers/switches. There is quite a range.

A lot of the units specify 240VAC but internally are 12VDC and easily modified. Drilling a hole in a head bolt or a cooling fin and gluing the sensor in place would be my suggestion.

The units begin at $5.00 and the dearest one I saw was <$30.

The one I used most recently was a Banggood 933303 (~$5.00) but has an upper temperature limit of 110C. I used it to replace the thermostat in a Waeco fridge. Maybe it could be used on an outer surface of a cooling fin.