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Time for a chain & sprocket change, Finally.

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potatomasher
talon440
jstava
2wheelsagain
truck
reddog
Chook
paul
Kaupy1962
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Post  Kaupy1962 Wed 25 Mar 2015, 11:03 pm

First topic message reminder :

Yep. finally changing the original chain and sprockets & 65,000ks. Going to a 42 on  the rear to bring the revs down below 4000
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Post  madmax Tue 17 Jan 2017, 5:05 pm

reddog wrote:Talon 440 is onto it. The scott oiler makes the chain require less adjustments. On top of that because of its constant oiling it means you don't have any stiff links either. 

Which reminds me I have to turn mine down as it's over oiling after my last ride on the weekend

So which Scott oiler do you recommend? Thinking of getting one before I head over to WA in December

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Post  reddog Wed 18 Jan 2017, 12:16 am

I just run the universal kit mate. But you can go all expensive and buy the electronic one if you like. Seriously a good investment, you may get some more kms out of the chain and sprockets. You just need to clean off a little fling on the rear rim occasionally once you have it dialled in.
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Post  madmax Wed 18 Jan 2017, 8:29 am

So is that the vacuum driven one?

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Post  reddog Wed 18 Jan 2017, 9:02 am

Yes. That's the one. V7 from memory. Mine came with the touring reservoir as well. I gave that to a friend that does big ks as you'll have a hard job hiding the bugger. Install took a few hours, but I reckon it's one of the best investments as you no longer need to carry chain lube.
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Post  madmax Wed 18 Jan 2017, 3:35 pm

reddog wrote:Yes. That's the one. V7 from memory. Mine came with the touring reservoir as well. I gave that to a friend that does big ks as you'll have a hard job hiding the bugger. Install took a few hours, but I reckon it's one of the best investments as you no longer need to carry chain lube.

how far would the normal reservoir last? would I need to carry a refill bottle?
Melbourne - Perth - Melbourne ~8000k

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Post  barry_mcki Wed 18 Jan 2017, 4:59 pm

I've got the Scottoiler eSystem version, and also bought the dual injector and touring Lube Tube.  I went with the electric version as I didn't like the idea of trying to find (or worse - tap into the inlet manifold) a vacuum source, especially with the FI of the 1250.  I wasn't sure if T-ing one of the existing vacuum ports would have a detrimental effect on the bikes tuning/performance.  The eSystem has a slightly larger capacity (60ml) as opposed to the 50ml of the vSystem.  The Lube Tube is an additional 200ml and attaches to the fill point of the main reservoir.

As far as how long a reservoir of oil lasts, that will depend on what you setup, you can adjust how much is dispensed depending on road conditions.  Make sure you mount the main reservoir in a place where you can easily refill it - not like what I did where I need to remove the fuel tank to get to it Embarassed  You'll need to run a couple of refills to see what is best for you.  The Scott web site states that depending on temp, oil viscosity, dispenser config, and speed, the vSystem should get 2,400km and the eSystem 2,880 km.  The Lube Tube is suppose to give an additional 9,600 km. Scottoiler Reservoir Capacities

Scott's oil is fairly expensive, there is suppose to be a cheaper alternative but I haven't bother to chase down what type it is, others on here might know if its simple engine oil.

BTW the dual injector got broken on one of side (it is suppose to mount so a tube is positioned on both sides of the back sprocket - I have reverted back to the original single sided tube and it works just as well.  

I also couldn't find a spot to mount the soft sided Lube Tube and still allow a gravity feed down to the main hard plastic clear tube reservoir - so it sits in it's box on the bench unused.

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Post  Cheazdad Sun 12 Feb 2017, 8:07 am

truck wrote:
paul wrote:
truck wrote:Hi Bandit Brothers and sisters, computer is broke so I'm using the phone Internet so i cant search the forum too well. I have just fitted 2 x Bridgestone Battlax tyres and split the chain ( don't ask) i ride an old 2002 . Is it simply a matter removing front sprocket cover and feeding chain through? Is there anything behind the cover i ned to be aware of besides the gear lever assy? Aargh!!

All good, found a thread on the internet that answered my question. Just remove the bolts and place the sprocket cover to the side without disconnecting anything other than the gear assy.

Take it easy.
You can also link the new chain to the old one with some wire  & pull it through .

Will definitely remember that little trick next time . . . hopefully


I thought the bandit chain came pre assembled, I know my handbook (GSX 1250 FA, 2012) defiantly states NOT to use a chain with a master link... or am i missing something ?

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Post  paul Sun 12 Feb 2017, 9:44 am

Replacement chains come with a rivet style joining link , the manual would be referring to the old style clip type joining link . If you fit a continuous preassembled chain , apart from the extra cost to order a factory one in  ( if that's possible, dealers don't stock them ) ...........you also have to pull your bike half apart  to fit it .

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Post  Cheazdad Sun 12 Feb 2017, 10:21 pm

paul wrote:Replacement chains come with a rivet style joining link , the manual would be referring to the old style clip type joining link . If you fit a continuous preassembled chain , apart from the extra cost to order a factory one in  ( if that's possible, dealers don't stock them ) ...........you also have to pull your bike half apart  to fit it .

thanks for that

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