Chain and sprocket recommendations

In need of a new chain and sprocket set, wondering what you are all using/recommend? Found this on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/310799113466?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 anyone heard of these brands?? Tsubake (chain) BMA (sprockets)

I had one of those chains but I can not remember if it was the good one or the one I should have used to tie the dog up with .
Personally i'm an rk or DID man.

That's what I was thinking too, what specs do I look at? I know its a 530-120 link but what else??

Beats me ,one that is designed to suit up to 1300 cc  I guess ..
I think the last chain I brought was an EK through Link Int . It has been fine ..
I your  cashed up www.chaingang.com.au is the place to go as there gear lasts 3 times longer than anything I have brought before .
It makes economical sense to buy  their stuff but hard to fork out the $500
Ive had one of there rear sprockets on for about 60.000 kls and see no wear at all . The chain and front sprocket (not theirs ) lasted about 25,000.

Yeah, My old girl is due for a set too.

Have a look here mate. http://www.chaingangchainsandsprockets.com.au/suzuki-specs/up-to-1400cc.html

Ok, bullet bitten. New set of sprockets and DID chain ordered from chain gang chains and sprockets. Easy way to spend $500 bucks while sitting on your wallet! Great timing too with the old man in the red suit on his way soon. The misus is not pleased, have not told her about the tyres that I am about to order....Shhhhh!!!!!!!!   I am going to be shot......

Cal you wont find a better chain and sprocket set, if you fit a scott oiler you wont have to replace the chain and sprockets again so they are worth the money

I wish I had the funds for the oiler, bad time of year though. Will look into it later on next year if I can get the funds for it. Right now its about keeping the bike going so I can get to work and back.

talon440 wrote:Cal you wont find a better chain and sprocket set, if you fit a scott oiler you wont have to replace the chain and sprockets again so they are worth the money

An oiler in theory gives no better service life than a properly maintained chain. Im certain half the prem wear with Bandit chains is from running them too tight. In my opinion the specs in the book are tight by 10mm.

2wheelsagain wrote:

An oiler in theory gives no better service life than a properly maintained chain. Im certain half the prem wear with Bandit chains is from running them too tight. In my opinion the specs in the book are tight by 10mm.

+1, totally agree, you notice if you overtigten it the chain will quickly stretch back to the correct tension; however, the damage is already done.

Oh, and don't forget that if you have jacked up the rear at all, you will need to have even more slack!

I have noticed that the Bandits seem to be too tight with the specified tension on the chain (side stand down and 25mm) I have always allowed about 35mm. The chain and sprockets have done 38,000km's so i figure that it is about right for the original set. I had over 50,000 on the original set on my RF900 and hardly ever adjusted it right up until it hit the 4x4! I think the cheapening of the Bandit has impacted on the life expectancy. It has degraded quickly over the last 3,000kms. I always lube the chain more than required too.

New chain and sprockets arrived, got the old ones off and the new set is in place. Only issue is that I can't get the rivets to spread on the chain. Tried with a trick the bike shop uses.... hold the joining link on with vice grips and punch the pin. Didn't work, pin just started to be pushed out the other side. Need to find the right tool on the weekend, have to ride to work on Monday! Knew that it was a long shot, has me stuffed how a bike shop relies on that method with big bikes and chains???

Gday Cal, DID make a good chain breaker but your probably stuck for choice by the sound of it. Its a bit hard to explain, but you use it one way to break it then reverse it to joint the chain. My local bike bloke uses this method. 
My method used to involve 2 hammers a block of wood a pair of multi grips and a whole new take on the English language, so I gave up and let him do it.  

Put a nut over one pin (loose fit ) clamp in place with G-clamp Not too tight .Get another person to hold a hammer against the back of the clear pin (or close to it ) Punch  pin ,it doesn't need to flair much .Reverse .

I must have gone to the Gus school of chain fiddling. Don't forget to swear Cal.  

Or buy a tool for the job .(cheap)

Ok, got it to stay in place. Last time I did a chain I had the use of a DID chain puller/riveter, was easy. Will have to invest in one before this one is due for replacement. Gone to about 30mm slack as I have the rear spring a little softer than some would. Did the oil & filter change while I was at it. Wish I had more time to get the bike cleaner (Busy time of the year). Tyres should turn up Monday or Tuesday, timing is a bit out as it would have been easier to get the front fitted while the rear wheel was out. Oh well. Have to continue working on the cubby for my daughter, been a slow project starting from scratch. I hope I can get it finished for Xmas  

I do exactly the way gus said, will save you a bit a money, unless of coarse the tree is fruitful, then by all means, splurge.

just make sure you measure the squash, so you don`t stress the the o-rings

Could not get it to squash as much as the other links, so all good there. (it is not going to come off)

I have just ordered from these guys through Ebay. I have Upgraded however to an RK- GWX chain with a 17t front sprocket. $390 USD including heavy duty chain tool and shipping.

Ebay Chain and Sprocket