1250 bandit chain chewing rear sprocket

Hi all. Not really specific to the bandit but hoping theres maybe some quirk with the bandit in unaware of. Inside of rear sprocket is wearing heavily from side plate of chain. Its making a racket of a noise too. Put new chain and sprockets but no change.
Ive confirmed wheel is running true by...
String lining to front wheel...perfect.
Set up long ally rods from pivot axle to rear axle....perfect.
Shot a laser down the sprockets with chain off....perfect.
And these happen to coincide perfectly with the factory adjuster marks in swing arm.
Im stumped. There is no play or run out on rear carrier and bearings feel fine. 2008 model with only 19000km. Bought from dealer at 9000km and ive now had enough of chasing my tail on this issue. Chain pulls to left in both sprockets. Only thing ive yet to tinker with is engine mounts. It came with crash bars fitted and in thinking maybe, and its a long shot, that the engine got tweaked slightly when they undone the engine mounts. Viable? The solid mounts engine to frame look like the motor cant shift position but im all out of ideas. Used to love this bike but my affections are dwindling. Anyone had similar?

NO ,but check all spacers are correct ,. Including the spacer in the sprocket carrier , the one that falls out when you remove the carrier .

Hi Gus. Yep all spacers are correct. Cush is a nice snug fit when i push the carrier on. So odd that the chain pulls left on both sprockets. I assume if sprockets were misaligned it would run left on one and right on the other?

Just to clarify,  I did read your script,  you did replace your front sprocket  ? 

The only thing that can cause what your saying is misalignment, or something is lose.
If all things are true and mating,  then it has to be correct.

On my Gen2 , the rear marks don't correlate to a true straight chain, and I have to use a straight edge or lazor.
Yes,  I did read you said that you've checked that. 

If the front sprocket is lose, even a little,  or can cause what your saying. When under load, it will twist and cause misalignment .

Their is an internal spacer that sits between the two bearings that might have been left out at one stage if the wheel bearings were ever changed, or if the tyres were replaced the apprentice can get overzealous with the rattle gun tightening the wheel, closing up the clearance between the spacer and the bearing.
Page 2D-14 in the service manual.

Yeah changed both sprockets and chain. Torqued to factory spec. Carrier bearing spacer is there. All seems good except chain running to left on both sprockets. At this stage in hoping the new rubber dampened sprockets ive ordered may help centre the chain by running on the rubbers. Its very odd. Ive noticed many people align rear wheel via centering the chain regardless of actual wheel alignment. All measuring and lasering shows wheels are parallel to pivot axle and front wheel. Every 1mm misalignment of rear wheel to pivot misaligns to front wheel by 5mm. Fairly confident all is aligned. Lining sprockets with laser is tricky because of swing arm and chain guard in line of sight but shooting it along top of sprocket teeth shows up on centre if teeth on both front and rear sprockets. Can a chain naturally throw outwards from the drive side due to some mystical spinning force? Never had this on any other bike. I read a blog from a fella who machined spacers to get everything within a decimal of mm and his still ran to the left. All my faith is in the arrival of the new dampened ones due for delivery next week. Suzuki have no oem sprockets in australia. Sigh....

Oh Yeah wheel bearing spacer def there too. Normally the oem sprocket has writing facing outwards. Mine was not i suspect dealer flipped it over to quieten it down.

Beats the hell or of me !!!

Chain isn't too tight is it ???
If they're too tight, they can make nasty noises !!
 Grinding noises.

If you spin the rear wheel, does the rear sprocket wobble or spin true ??

Spins true. Even using the laser no run out to speak of.
Chain slack has always been at 30mm on paddick stand / side stand. Tried slightly looser and tighter but no change. Im guessing even tho its runs left on frint sprocket aswell the rubber damper stopped it aggressively rubbing where as rear is scrubbing out side of sprocket. The after market front with no dampener is way noisy. Just doesnt make any sense. Hours n hours fiddling and measuring and spinning wheel. Push the chain to right slightly and it goes quiet.

I came across this looking for an answer .

https://www.cycleworld.com/motorcycle-chain-and-front-rear-sprocket-alignment-issues-ask-kevin-cameron

Have you had the bike from new , or could something been knocked out of wack before you got it ?

I haven't used a cush drive front sprocket in years...well over 10.
So if it's out like you're saying , there should be evidence of metal dust around the front and rear sprockets. Is this the case ??  This is a sure sign it's gouging the crap out of your sprockets.
A long shot, the output shaft bearing isn't stuffed ??

Thats the same blog i read ive kinda got to the same point where vertically parallel is too difficult to measure but seems plausible as everything is ok. Sounds like he gave up coz fhere waa no real explanation why. Bike had 9000km when i got it so could have been knocked. I had fears of output shaft and its difficult to diagnose turning by hand but it has zero play axially or radially and seal is good. Turns smooth but i can hear the bearings and gears as i turn it.i assumed that would be normal? I hope it is.
Cracking tension off the engine mount bolts was next on my list to see if the position of the engine changes the vertical parallelism. They may have left the motor jacked up when they fitted the crash bars and tightened it all up rather than let the motor sit under its own weight, or vice versa. But looking at the way the mounts bolt up it looks like there would be room to move at all. Pretty solidly/rigidly mounted.

No metallic dust. Front hasnt scrubbed out coz of the damper. Rear must just fling it off as im riding. On the rear , the chamfer on the left of the teeth look new. The chamfer in the right is basically the entire height of the tooth plus a bit of the sprocket even below that. Its taking alot meat off thats for sure. Tried posting pics but it didnt work. Not sure how ya do that. From the measurements and string lining and lasering , any misalignment must be so small it should be negligible. Id swear this is all more in alignment than the average bike that is just lined up by swing arm marks or just using a chain alignment tool. For those of you that align your chains and call it a day, do you or have you ever confirmed that the wheel alignment is still correct? Do i just misalign my wheel and try and get the chain running centred?

The drive line has to be true. Don't ever offset your wheel to fix this mystical problem. That will affect the geometry of the bike. It won't corner or handle properly, and will soon stuff your tyres.

If the sprockets are in line front to back...there's nothing lose and everything is mating....I can only think the chain and sprockets are miss matching, not an alignment thing.

Yeah i agree. Ive left it set up with everything supposedly aligned. The article about torque pulling everything left could be applicable and does make some sense. Not sure about mismatched. Same issue was with the original chain and sprockets. This all came about when i gave ny chain a thorough cleaning. Took it for a spin ti dry and warm up chain without my usual earplugs. Dunno how long its been doing it but i fgured 11 years in an o ring chain is pushing it so replaced the lot. Apart from the side wear at rear, chain and sprockets seemed to be only 50% worn. Waa not expecting the same noise with the new set. Funny thing if im coasting its quiet and in decel its quiet. The slightest but if throttle brings on the noise. Seems like the teeth meshing is only being disrorted or whatever under any anount of load. Cant replicate it on the stand. Kinda whizzing sound. Even tho it feels fine, im tempted to change out the carrier bearing for the sake of diligence but i doubt thats the cause. It spins smooth and also has zero play.

I do experience a bit of what you talk of,  and that is slight polishing of one side of the rear sprocket, but I don't worry about it. There will be a certain amount of torque tolerance in the mix.
You maybe worrying over nothing. If you ride with ear plugs, as I always do,  then go anywhere without them, it is a whole lot more mechanical in the audio department that's for sure.

Yeah i am sometimes too picky but got a nate to ride it and could hear it as he rode off. Not good.

Praying its not gearbox....

Sprockets and chain are the right size ? .Not much difference between 525 and 530 .Will not be gearbox.  Try fitting axil from other side .

DID chain is def 530. Sprockets dont say but neasure same thickness aa original at around 8.74mm. Sorry for typos cannot type on phone lol

Yeah tried swapping axle. Can new chains whizz yntil they wear in? The old one may have whizzed from wear. Cleaning the gunk out could amplify it.

If its the nature of the beast and the natural bias of chain on this bike then in still hoping the dampened sprockets will do the trick. When i tried flipping the oem sprocket over it was quieter but the worn groove then pushed the chain to the right lol. Rear still ran to the left. I think the dampeners do helo alot with absorbing roller contact and minimizing side wear. Interesting ti try the rear with a dampener too.

Howdy Batfink,
I have been following this discussion and it seems to me that you have done pretty much all.
One thing I found on the DID website was the dimensions, particularly the pitch of a number of chain sizes.
Most are 15.88mm but their are exceptions.
Just a wild idea.
What's the chances of a part number error giving you an incorrect pitched chain?

Hi Dave the Bandit. Interesting. Ill check it and measure tonight. Are you saying there have been instances where chains stamped 530 have a different pitch? I read online (such a reliable source lol) that did chains can be a bit noisier? Surely the millions of chains off their production line would all be correct with tolerances of course. Hmmm

What I am saying is that you seem to have done all things and still have an issue.

My suggestion now is could an incorrect chain found its way into a correctly labelled box?

It's a long shot but you seem to have covered every other possibility.

Have you considered better earplugs?