not happy with forks

I posted a while ago about the way the front of the bike felt while cornering and got some really good tips on setting sag ect.
I have done that and while it is better I'm still not totally satisfied with the handling especially while cornering on bumpy roads.
Even though the front feels fairly soft, bumps and potholes knock the bike around quite a lot, more than I'm comfortable with.
I will do the fork springs and re valve and thought about Holeshots springs but read here that the 1.1 springs are too harsh on our rough roads
Where I live nearly my rides end up on rough roads, are there any good brands for me to buy locally or do you go through ebay or similar

Can you describe whats going on? What you expect etc?
You're wrestling a big front heavy bike that prefers slower entry for a faster exit.
A revalve will stop/help the forks hydraulic locking if over worked. That action has nothing to do with prelod.
The best suspension I've ever had was a Ohlins suspended FZ1 and it felt "plush" but rode beautifully.

its the skittish,nervous feeling when you are cornering on a uneven surface
and the bike seems to hit bumps hard even with soft suspension
feels like you could lose the front end fairly easily
got to admit I like the FZ1's how was the torque compared to the Suzuki

V17R wrote:its the skittish,nervous feeling when you are cornering on a uneven surface
and the bike seems to hit bumps hard even with soft suspension
feels like you could lose the front end fairly easily
got to admit I like the FZ1's how was the torque compared to the Suzuki

Mine was the gen 1 with more of the carb'ed R1 engine than current FZ1 so torque wasn't bad but fark hang on when you hit 9k! No i4 of normal proportions will match the Bandit for torque. I sold the FZ1 and kept the Bandit so there's the overall answer

they sound alright but the torque is what I like on these
so what do ya reckon about the forks, I nearly dropped it yesterday on a shitty road

The front end on mine feels harsh (it has Racetech springs and gold valves) but certainly not unsafe or skitterish.  On heavily patched up roads it gives a jarring ride.  I might even have it softened up with some further front end work (first thing I need to do is to change the old fluid - I may even put something as light as 5.5 weight in).  You might have mentioned in your other post what sort of tyres you're running but I don't remember.  I have full confidence in the PR3s (at 36psi) to hang on despite the tendency for the front end to be bumped off line mid corner if the surface is really crap.

I have PR2's what spring rate do you have

I don't actually know I'm sorry.  But it's harsh!

dont really want a super harsh ride

Time to take it to an expert I'd say.
I don't know what your past bikes have been or what you're expecting of the big lump. Mine is stock aside from extra preload front and rear. It handles far better than anything from the 80s and a lot from the 90s comparing stock with stock. It can be improved no doubt. Don't forget front issues can be caused by a fault at the rear.

It's impossible to diagnose without seeing or riding it.
Have the forks been dropped through the Triple clamps for example?  Are the swingarm bushes in good shape? Headstem bearings? Wheel bearings? Throw in technique and the list is endless. 

If it's knocking your confidence get it seen to is my advice.

as has been said, it needs to be revalved and resprung.

in standard form, its hard to pollish a turd, so don`t get to disheartened, if you can`t find the right tune as is.

it needs to be rebuilt, to suit your needs if your going to play, rather than tour.

All the stuff I posted up earlier was to try to make sure your standard setup was working as well as it could.

It sounds like you would like to improve things further and I'd recommend going to a suspension tech. They charge nothing for advice and I've never personally met a rider who left a suspension tech disappointed.

Their depth of knowledge and experience will shit on anything we can give you.

I've only used Terry Hay's Shock Treatment in Sydney and highly recommend him. This is his site : http://www.shocktreatment.com.au/
Other Sydney members can probably give you other options.

You'll pay not much more than doing it yourself and your guaranteed it will be right.

I bought my 1250 fa and learnt that it was previously owned by Baz. Forum member.  
It's suspension was sorted by Baz with a trip to Shock treatment.  Flash stickers to prove it. 
The setup is outstanding. I haven't had a moment where I have had a concern about handling.  
I highly recommend a visit to them.

Ill take the advise and contact them Monday, pity they are so far from me (Central Coast)

Another option is http://www.trooperlu.com.au/page/Suspension

I've never been there but hear good things.

These guys get good wraps too and are a bit closer to you

http://www.teknikmotorsport.com.au/Motorcycle-Workshop-Penrith-Motocross-Road-Adventure-Enduro-Engines-Suspension/

Note this part:
Service Policy's-

Money Back valving guarantee. When you have your suspension revalved with us we give you 90 days from time of invoice to test the settings and have them readjusted to your liking at NO CHARGE. If we can't find a setting you like we will return your suspension to the stock settings and give you a refund for the work.
The FINE PRINT. Excluding consumable parts like seals and bushes and any parts you elect to keep such as springs. That's it!

Most techs will do this as part of the service
 

(Hey, who changed my font when I wasn't looking?)

thanks, I will make some calls

I think the tyre pressure plays a big part. I've never thought the suspension was exceptionally bad unless pushing hard through a bumpy turn. Once the front is unloaded it can get into a little tank slap, just keep on the gas ive got racetech kit sitting in a box, have to take a day of work soon and book it in with someone as the gold valve settings have me stuffed. 

FYI I'm 85kg plus gear and rock bridge stone 023s at stock 36 41 and had it on the track without any problems. Ride it like a heavy dirt bike with your body over the front and it's all good

I had the same skiddish feel around the twisties and heaps of dive under braking.
1st changed to 1.0kg non-progressive springs as I weight 100kg and often have 70kg pillion
Still was not that good so I took it to a suspension mob called ProMechA in mulgrave, this guy really knows his stuff and was recommended by a lot of old boys that have been riding for years.
He said the bandits have cheap suspension and designed for 85kg riders.
He modified the dampening installing one of his kits which included anti dive circuit, replaced original fluid with 5wt to match his design.
Amazing difference, soft ride but when you pull up hard the nose only dips, feels a lot better in the corners too.
I bought the springs from sonic in the USA but dismantling & damper mods only cost me $365.
A lot of people remove their forks & ship to him to modify, cheaper again.

Forgot to mention I was running RoadPilot3's all round

I have racetech in mine and it's great.  and tyre pressure [36/42] is very important - 2 pounds down and it's simply awful

took it to a bike workshop and ended up with racetech springs .95 and oil change
has made it smoother even though the springs are stiffer
a lot less dive under brakes also.
So far all good, see how it goes when I get on some familiar (rough) roads

V17R wrote:took it to a bike workshop and ended up with racetech springs .95 and oil change
has made it smoother even though the springs are stiffer
a lot less dive under brakes also.
So far all good, see how it goes when I get on some familiar (rough) roads

That suggests the old set up was hydraulic locking.
Sounds like a good result for you. What was the approximate cost of the exercise?

whats that, bottoming out?
$380

V17R wrote:whats that, bottoming out?
$380

No mate. The valving can't keep up with whats required. Cant flow enough oil so they at some point become solid because you can't compress a liquid.

got it!

Good result  (why isn't there a thumbs up emoticon?)