Clutch Cover Site Glass

Can't find a seperate number for the seal, but it might come as part of the sight glass which is Part# 11971-33210 (Desc LENS,OIL LEVEL -SU).  Alpha is charging US$17.76 (plus 2 arms and half a leg for postage).

barry_mcki wrote:Can't find a seperate number for the seal, but it might come as part of the sight glass which is Part# 11971-33210 (Desc LENS,OIL LEVEL -SU).  Alpha is charging US$17.76 (plus 2 arms and half a leg for postage).

Thanks Barry.
I'll have to check that site out. Bolts are 5 X 30 too by the looks of it

2wheelsagain wrote: Bolts are 5 X 30 too by the looks of it

The picture is a bit fuzzy, they're actually 6x30 according to the parts list.

Why not try your local dealership, before ordering overseas. surely a seal is quite cheap. It sounds like a manufacturing defect 2wheels as mine has never leaked


If you manage to find a cheap place for a ss bolt kit let us know

reddog wrote:Why not try your local dealership, before ordering overseas. surely a seal is quite cheap. It sounds like a manufacturing defect 2wheels as mine has never leaked


If you manage to find a cheap place for a ss bolt kit let us know

Yes I'll be calling locally although $29 shipping isnt too bad from the US.
I was mainly wanting to see what was involved in replacing the seal. Still dont really know. Must be held in by a clip or similar but its not shown on the drawings....
I ordered the bolt kit from the Uk last night. Was $20 odd inc shipping I think. I'll post a pic when they arrive.

Barry the bolt size must have been a typo as even my eye sight isnt that bad yet  

Ive bought parts from that eBay seller. It's a pity the fill kit isn't a touch cheaper. I need a new set of chain adjuster bolts as they are made of cheese

When you pull the cover you will have to lean the bike against a wall the opposite direction than the side stand . The angle needs to be slightly more than the side stand angle .Bike in gear ,handlebar against a wall works well. This will stop the oil pouring out ,unless of cause you want to do an oil change at the same time .

Would sikaflex work ?

Thanks Gus. Not sure what that is Paul. RD just go Stainless. Mine are still originals and doing ok.

2wheelsagain wrote:Thanks Gus. Not sure what that is Paul. RD just go Stainless. Mine are still originals and doing ok.

It's a polyurethane sealant ( for your sight glass )...extremely strong & comes in different types for different applications .................used in the automotive industry as well as  other trades

Ok thanks Paul. I'll investigate.

Id rather it on the outside than in .

Maybe a thin rubber O-ring.

So how'd you go @2Wheels?

reddog wrote:So how'd you go @2Wheels?

Haven't got around to it yet. Got new hex bolts delivered this week so I better pull finger out.
Been having VTR issues that have kept me busy (and poor)   

I'll need details (vrf) 

Nothing too major,  we hope.

Leaking petcock filled sump with 10lt of BP98!
Couldn't work out why it wouldn't start. Got it cranking then pissed fuel externally through breathers etc. Then it ran for 30 seconds and stalled. Hope the stall wasn't a seizure!! Filled garage with smoke. Realised site glass was over full and wondered by how much. Flipped the full tank to turn tap off and of the 15lt that was there when parked only had about 5 left

I have a Dynojet kit to go in and Fireblade brakes with braided lines. I hope its not a lost cause but will find out next week when a mate gets into it.

Here's a 13lt oil drain pan.
Here is a sample of what it ran in: https://youtu.be/oHhbrxTUcmY
Here is the rate of external leak: https://youtu.be/iQntW0o9xbw

Fingers crossed for you mate. If it was not revving to hard when the hydraulic lock happened hopefully it did not bend anything.

+1 to that.  The petcock rubber diaphragms were one of the first things I replaced on the XS850 overhaul.

Even if your petcock leaks fuel from the tank it should still stop at the carbys.
The fuel has made its way past float/needle/seat. I would pull the carbs and check the situation. Unsure if that's what your Dynojet kit is about.
Fuel dribling into the sump would have pooled ontop of the oil, being lighter and no agitation to mix it. Oil pick up should have sucked up good oil for the 30 seconds it ran, hopefully no bearing damage.
Fingers crossed for you mate.

Ewok1958 wrote:+1 to that.  The petcock rubber diaphragms were one of the first things I replaced on the XS850 overhaul.

I tested it early on and it held vacumm and because its under the tank and not quickly accessable (undo two bolts to access) its usually a set and forget thing unless the tank is coming off.
So until it shits itself you dont really know.    (nice one Honda)
I hope this is the end of the drama with this bike because although I love it when its going it has never been going "right" and it owes me about $6,500 now which is fine if thats where it stops. I'm getting pressured to sell it and buy new which is attractive but I'd like to see it through now.

Bosco: Dynojet kit was for jetting mains but its the full kit minus floats themselves so we'll be doing a full rebuild on the carbs. Yes the needles should have stopped the leak and it could explain the low throttle surge and uneven idle I've been having. Which could have been a rich condition all along and not lean as everyone has been thinking.

Hope it all goes well mate

Hope your VTR is ok, 2WA. 
Here's a shot I took of the inside of the oil sight glass on my SV whilst I had the cover off. Looks like the glass has a rubber o-ring on the case side and polimer sealant on the oil side.