Anyone using FI tuner pro?

First topic message reminder :

At this stage my Bandit's mod is only a Yoshi 77 slip on.
With 18K service, will be installing K&N air filter.

I am reading that that above combo could result in a lean fuel mix.

So.... options are... leave it as it is, or install FI tuner pro or similar.

FI tuner pro is the cheapest option. Anyone has used / installed this?
Can't find any reviews online.

Cheers
Andy

The wire and its jacket look different than the rest- the jacket has a high temp coating to it. I just pulled mine. Had to loosen the voltage regulator (3 mounting bolts) and fish the wire out. It takes a 17mm wrench to pull the O2 sensor. Use the box end of the wrench. Slip th wire through the box end of the wrench and take her out.

You might want to get a 12mm plug to fill the hole. Ask a mufler shop.

You don't have to snip the wire to the sensor.You do have to snip the wire to the ECU pin #23 - this is the input that disables the O2 sensor function in the ECU.
It's in the FIT instructions.


N.B. there is potential to get confused about pin numbers.
It is pin #23 on the small ECU connector. - the connectors have numbers molded into the face the wires enter the connector.
In the Suzuki service manual wiring schematic for the 1250,the numbers are sequential across both the big ECU connector and the small ECU connector,starting on one connector and continuing on the next connector,not starting from 1 on each connector.
In the wiring schematic pin #23 on the small connector is labeled #57 and has no description,just marked with a - .
The wire on #23 (#57) is a black/white wire indicating it is a ground.Pin #23(#57) is an switch input to the ECU to disable the O2 sensor for Suzuki's/Mitsubishi's own purposes. Probably for use when developing ECU software.That is why it's function is not labeled in the diagram.


I hope that clarifies things.There seemed to be a lot of confusion early in this thread about pin numbers and whether error messages would appear if the wire was cut.

The o2 sensor bypass does the same thing without snipping any wires.

I recently bought a 2010 GSX1250Fa and after reading the Holeshot Performance article, cut open what appears to be a restrictive air cleaner box and fitted a sports pipe. Not entirely sure, but it seemed from this point on the engine "popped" on lean cruise, I have seen other people reporting this, the engine kind of surged and bucked at steady low engine speed, it was very annoying, I kept wanting to accelerate to get through it. I recently installed the FI tuner, was very easy, the hardest part was getting the map install past Norton Anti Virus. I downloaded the "sports pipe" version of the map from Healtechs website, I later noticed they have added 8 units to the injection map at those low engine speeds, this suggests this is a common fault.

So after fitting the unit the engine is a lot smoother at low engine speeds, no more surging and popping, so far I am very happy.

Before fitting the FI tuner, I balanced the throttle bodies twice, checked for vacuum leaks, it had made no difference to the popping.

Yesterday I removed my secondary throttles, pretty easy operation, but I dunno how anybody managed to unscrew those screws, mine were glued for good, I tried solder irons everything, the plastic handle from the new screw driver twisted off its shaft and still those suckers wouldn't budge. Eventually I removed the injectors, and drilled the screws out, hell I aint putting those restrictors back in. After start up I balanced the throttle bodies again, still haven't ridden it yet, the rain outside is horrendous, not a good time to fang around.

I will get it dyno tuned at some point, but at least I know its no longer running too lean.

The next issue to sort out is a very annoying buzz the instrument cluster makes at 3000RPM, anyone come across this?

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Thank you...

Well, my first impression is .... yes, it does make difference.
Could be a halo effect, but...

I believe that it has reduced back fire by about 50% and I haven't had occasional surging at low RPMs that I had before.
Also, Bandit accelerates much better. I had a "flat" spot at 3500-4000 RPMs. Now it just pulls.

Overall, I think it was a worth while mod.

Will be interesting to see fuel consumption.
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Back fire is fixed by plugging the PAIR line. Have you done this easy mod?

I just bought and installed the f1 pro tuner on my 2011 gsx 1250fa, Im running a KNM intake filter and yoshimura slip on.  I also have had the unsteady low rpm motor shakes, but I have noticed a diffenent differance, more excelleration and smoother throttle runs. I have played with the program alittle, but have been unable to find any detailed info on the programming, Plan on taking it to a dyno soon to just double check,  But over all I am very pleased with the performance improvements. its even smoothed out the idleing.   And yes I get the instrument vibration between 3000-4500 rpm and it is a bit annoying, Dont know how to fix it except putting a matchbook in one of the cracks around it.  lol
   I snipped the wire as per the installation instructions, as long as you leave enough wire, its an easy fix   I think its a safer than disconnecting and tucking the wire end in some crevice.  I kinda like the back firing when I dexcellerate, makes me think Im on a track with complete strait pipes, I often ask my buddies if they happen to see flames coming out the end.         steve   

I am just installing the FI Pro and the instuction say to disconnect the exhaust valve cable.
Is this what Suzuki call the PAIR Control solenoid valve??? 

spanna wrote:I am just installing the FI Pro and the instuction say to disconnect the exhaust valve cable.
Is this what Suzuki call the PAIR Control solenoid valve??? 

Those aren't 1250 Bandit instructions.  There is no exhaust valve cable on a Bandit.  This will be an exhaust valve like on the CBR1000RR or ZX10. Nothing to do with the PAIR.  You either have the wrong kit or wrong instructions (or both)

Thanks

I bought a GSX1250FA with a healtech fi pro installed, but the previous owner neglected to cut the wire from pin 23, causing the ECU to continue to use the O2 sensor for map trims.

As far as I know, the only mod on the bike is a Yoshi slipon (not sure if aftermarket air-filter installed) and after cutting wire, there is no longer popping on the overrun at slight throttle openings.

Rob