Woolich Racing Tuned Software

After alot of research I decided to go with Woolich Racing for tuning the Bandit, so much more adjustability than the piggy back systems (Dynojet PCV and Holeshot), iap and TPS fuel maps, ignition maps, Secondary throttle position and Auto tune.
https://www.woolichracing.com.au/default.aspx

Nice, are you planning anything else in terms of exhaust and airbox?
I've got a Rapidbike Evo (good power, not particularly impressed by throttle feel) on one of my bikes and I've had a bike with a PCV (impressed all round), but the best feel in terms of response is the Woolich flash on my 1250. I got it set up on a dyno by PTR rather than buying the Woolich kit

Had already fitted Black Widow headers with Yoshimura R77 muffler and PAIR valve delete with block off plates, have only modded the air box since I bought the kit.
Removed the Secondary throttle plates before I found out that you can adjust them through the software, no way I'm putting those things back in just so I can adjust them. lol
Now I'm just using the Auto tune to set my target AFR's, have had a look at the ignition tables and you can definitely see where Suzuki have restricted the maps ( love the 3D function) and made a few adjustments.
So far running much smoother with a more precise and snappier throttle, trailing and on/off throttle control, especially during change of direction and double apex's is considerably improved. Being able to turn off the fuel injection shutoff makes a difference.


Fitted with anti cat scratcher on the seat.

We have almost identical set-ups, except I cheaped-out with a Black Widow muffler. It's a shame I can't just share the map I have with you so you can use it as a base. I really appreciate the lack of snatchy throttle too

I like your seat cover, is it Sheridan?

No not a Sheridan lol, have to keep the cat's off somehow.  Thanks for the offer of sharing your map, once I'm happy with the map that I am compiling I will be putting it up on Mapshare on Woolich so other people can compare and use it.

Well, it's easy to offer something when I can't actually deliver on the offer!

This is what PTR got with my setup. Secondaries gone, airbox opened up and a K&N, PAIR removed, full Black Widow system. The red line is with the exhaust and secondaries removed. Blue is with the tune and airbox mod

Very nice, good gains in the bottom end, would be good to see the other half of the dyno sheet

Bill & Ted wrote:Very nice, good gains in the bottom end, would be good to see the other half of the dyno sheet

The details with my name and address?  


Seriously though, what do you mean? That's all she revs

Or do you mean a stock curve?

Sorry didn't mean any offence, was just interested in the curve above 6,000 rpm as the graph only shows to 3k rpm. agree don't show your details.
Looks like they filled the hole in the ignition timing. here's the stock file for gears 4,5,6

And before you ask, here are gears 1,2,3

Ahhh, sorry - it looks fine on my phone, I haven't logged in on a browser for a while. Is this any better?

If it still doesn't fit in the page, then right click on it and open it in a new tab, it should resize itself appropriately.

Bill & Ted wrote:Sorry didn't mean any offence, was just interested in the curve above 6,000 rpm as the graph only shows to 3k rpm. agree don't show your details.
Looks like they filled the hole in the ignition timing. here's the stock file for gears 4,5,6

So between 9k - redline at 40-60 % throttle the timing is advanced something like 36 degrees? 
Is timing measured in degrees in this case?
Am I reading that right?

Thankyou, the graph came up perfectly and yes all measurements are in degrees of advance and above 6,000rpm at 40 to 60% throttle the timing is from 31 to 35 degrees.  The graph doesn't show it but when you close the throttle on deceleration above around 4k rpm the timing goes to 48 degrees advanced for emissions

Keep in mind the best solution for the secondary throttle blades is just to remove them. Leaving them in and adjusting the setting corrects them closing early but you are left with a slow servo motor that dulls the throttle response. Much smoother throttle response that is more predictable with them removed. Also the you can easily eliminate the timing retard in the first 4 gears with a TRE seen below. Easy 5 minute install that plugs into the gear position plug. Keep in mind a piggyback fuel controller such as Holeshot’s SuperTuner aka Dobeck EJK is easily adjustable even on the fly just by pushing buttons. Also Dale has lots of experience as he is known as the Bandit Guru with over 223 dyno runs on his 1250 perfecting the settings of adding/subtracting fuel, different load crossover points, different intake lid mods, exhaust headers and muffler (size and louver design) combinations. For a quick and easy solution to the restrictions of the secondary throttle blades, timing retard in lower gears, restrictive exhaust and intake - Dale’s advice and items are ideal. Remember, the tune is only as good as the programmer. Experience is key. 

https://smartmoto-electronics.com/smart-tre-timing-retard-eliminator-str-001?moto_brand_id=1&moto_model_id=130

https://holeshot.com/suzuki/bandit/650-1250/products/efi-supertune-pro/dynocharts

I'm pretty certain that disabling the secondaries as mentioned by Bill & Ted means that the butterflies are left permanently open. There's no need to rely on the servo that actuates them as they no longer move.

SRAD_Pitt wrote:I'm pretty certain that disabling the secondaries as mentioned by Bill & Ted means that the butterflies are left permanently open. There's no need to rely on the servo that actuates them as they no longer move.

It is by far best to take them out. Leaving the in disrupts the incoming air from the primary throttle blades. Plus the STVA is known for problems due to vibration and heat breaking the soldier connection on the board. The secondary throttle blades are only there for emission purposes. I even took out the secondary throttle blade rod to eliminate any air disruption/ turbulence due to the slots and screw holes in the rod. I noticed a more predictable and more smooth throttle control with faster reaction that is more direct from my wrist opening the primary throttle blades. Healtech makes a STVA eliminator if you take the rod out.

Joflewbyu2 wrote:

SRAD_Pitt wrote:I'm pretty certain that disabling the secondaries as mentioned by Bill & Ted means that the butterflies are left permanently open. There's no need to rely on the servo that actuates them as they no longer move.

 I even took out the secondary throttle blade rod to eliminate any air disruption/ turbulence due to the slots and screw holes in the rod. 

OK, nice. How did you plug up the holes left in the throttle bodies after you removed that rod?

SRAD_Pitt wrote:

Joflewbyu2 wrote:

SRAD_Pitt wrote:I'm pretty certain that disabling the secondaries as mentioned by Bill & Ted means that the butterflies are left permanently open. There's no need to rely on the servo that actuates them as they no longer move.

 I even took out the secondary throttle blade rod to eliminate any air disruption/ turbulence due to the slots and screw holes in the rod. 

OK, nice. How did you plug up the holes left in the throttle bodies after you removed that rod?

First, you remove the secondary blade sensor on left of throttle body with 2 hex security screws. When you split the throttle body apart - left and right side, you remove the STVA and you will see a small pin in the rod that must be removed to allow the rod to be removed from between the left and right bodies. I used a small rubber plug on left side where sensor was. The far right keeps the factory brass plug. I used a reinforced silicone hose cut perfectly to ~ 1” length to seal the left and right bodies together. I left the rod holes between the bores 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 open to help balance idle and with the left and right body joined with hose bores 2 & 3 are joined so all the bores are connected where the rod was. 

So now no more rod disrupting the incoming air flow, no more moving parts (slow servo motor operating the rod which controlled the secondary throttle blades) and smooth idle due to balance among the bores 1, 2, 3, & 4 since they are connected via air holes where rod was. 

I would have never kept the bike stock with the secondary throttle blades in which killed the upper power and dulled the throttle response. On a scale 1-10, the bike stock ran like a 4 with okay midrange. Low rpms had a lean surge and power stopped at ~ 6,800 rpms. No sense in revving higher as power was restricted and was slow to rev. 

Now with air box lid modified to totally open, fueler (Holeshot SuperTuner aka Dobeck EJK) added, full exhaust which gets rid of cat and restrictive header and muffler, TRE (timing reduction eliminator) in gears 1-4, PAIR removed and no O2 (Lambda sensor) - the bike runs its’ @ss off. Pulls cleanly from idle to redline quickly without any hiccups. Night and day difference. Never skips a beat. Totally happy now.

Joflewbyu2 wrote:

SRAD_Pitt wrote:

Joflewbyu2 wrote:

SRAD_Pitt wrote:I'm pretty certain that disabling the secondaries as mentioned by Bill & Ted means that the butterflies are left permanently open. There's no need to rely on the servo that actuates them as they no longer move.

 I even took out the secondary throttle blade rod to eliminate any air disruption/ turbulence due to the slots and screw holes in the rod. 

OK, nice. How did you plug up the holes left in the throttle bodies after you removed that rod?

I left the rod holes between the bores 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 open to help balance idle and with the left and right body joined with hose bores 2 & 3 are joined so all the bores are connected where the rod was. 

So now no more rod disrupting the incoming air flow, no more moving parts (slow servo motor operating the rod which controlled the secondary throttle blades) and smooth idle due to balance among the bores 1, 2, 3, & 4 since they are connected via air holes where rod was. 

I'm not convinced that connecting each throttle bore is a great idea. I understand that the connection is on the airbox side of the throttle butterflies, so the effect shouldn't be too bad, but that's no way to 'balance' a set of throttles

Jof, it would have been interesting to have had a before and after comparison of all the work you've done with only the butterfly's out, then with everything removed.

My setup (with a PC5) is essentially the same as yours but with only the butterfly's removed. I'm pulling 125.6hp on the dyno, I notice no lags, dips, or loss of power and a flat 13.0 AFR over the full rev range.

I'm wondering that by removing the rod altogether (I tried to calculate the degree of restriction it caused once but gave up as it hurt my brain), if it causes some form of detrimental air flow down at the valves.  I would have thought that when Suzuki designed this motor they did all sorts of flow testing to get optimum flow into the head.  Could removing the "restriction of the bar" cause some form of negative airflow eddie ?  Could it be better to leave it in and only pull the four butterfly's ?

On the other hand, is the restriction of the bar so minuscule that it makes no difference at all ?  If that is the case, is pulling the throttle-bodies apart this much by amateur mechanics tempting fate, with little or no return at the rear wheel.  I remember the first time I removed the throttle-bodies as a full assembly from my motor the thought of "what F are you doing" crossed my mind more than once.  Slapping on headers or cutting off the airbox lid requires very little skill, but pulling apart a matched set of throttle-bodies is a whole different story.

As I said at the beginning, I wonder how much it actually helped.

barry_mcki wrote:Jof, it would have been interesting to have had a before and after comparison of all the work you've done with only the butterfly's out, then with everything removed.

My setup (with a PC5) is essentially the same as yours but with only the butterfly's removed. I'm pulling 125.6hp on the dyno, I notice no lags, dips, or loss of power and a flat 13.0 AFR over the full rev range.

I'm wondering that by removing the rod altogether (I tried to calculate the degree of restriction it caused once but gave up as it hurt my brain), if it causes some form of detrimental air flow down at the valves.  I would have thought that when Suzuki designed this motor they did all sorts of flow testing to get optimum flow into the head.  Could removing the "restriction of the bar" cause some form of negative airflow eddie ?  Could it be better to leave it in and only pull the four butterfly's ?

On the other hand, is the restriction of the bar so minuscule that it makes no difference at all ?  If that is the case, is pulling the throttle-bodies apart this much by amateur mechanics tempting fate, with little or no return at the rear wheel.  I remember the first time I removed the throttle-bodies as a full assembly from my motor the thought of "what F are you doing" crossed my mind more than once.  Slapping on headers or cutting off the airbox lid requires very little skill, but pulling apart a matched set of throttle-bodies is a whole different story.

As I said at the beginning, I wonder how much it actually helped.

There probably isn’t any hp advantage but my seat of the pants experience is smoother and more predictable throttle control without the rod disrupting airflow. Plus no more worries about the problematic STVA.

SRAD_Pitt wrote:

Joflewbyu2 wrote:

SRAD_Pitt wrote:

Joflewbyu2 wrote:

SRAD_Pitt wrote:I'm pretty certain that disabling the secondaries as mentioned by Bill & Ted means that the butterflies are left permanently open. There's no need to rely on the servo that actuates them as they no longer move.

 I even took out the secondary throttle blade rod to eliminate any air disruption/ turbulence due to the slots and screw holes in the rod. 

OK, nice. How did you plug up the holes left in the throttle bodies after you removed that rod?

I left the rod holes between the bores 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 open to help balance idle and with the left and right body joined with hose bores 2 & 3 are joined so all the bores are connected where the rod was. 

So now no more rod disrupting the incoming air flow, no more moving parts (slow servo motor operating the rod which controlled the secondary throttle blades) and smooth idle due to balance among the bores 1, 2, 3, & 4 since they are connected via air holes where rod was. 

I'm not convinced that connecting each throttle bore is a great idea. I understand that the connection is on the airbox side of the throttle butterflies, so the effect shouldn't be too bad, but that's no way to 'balance' a set of throttles

The proper way to balance the 4 bores is to clean the brass idle screws and turn each one out exactly the same amount. If I remember correctly, I did each one 1 1/2 turns out from bottoming out closed. This leaves the screw head slots same position for bores 1&3 and perpendicular angle of screw heads on bores 2&4. Keep in mind bore 1 has the airflow sensor so that bore reading is ever a slight tad different if using a flow meter. Also the secondary rod is behind the primary throttle blades and the primary throttle blades are after the idle screws.  Having the bores connected by the holes where the secondary throttle blade rod was helps correct any differences caused by throttle blade wear. I now have no issues with idle on my bike and no hiccups nor stutters which I had when stock.

Go to Dale Walkers Youtube channel, he's now using Chris Moore at Moore Mafia to flash his ECU's using Woolich Racing software.
Kind of funny when he is a tuner with his own dyno, think he struggles a bit with the new fangled way of flashing an ECU.

Bill & Ted wrote:Go to Dale Walkers Youtube channel, he's now using Chris Moore at Moore Mafia to flash his ECU's using Woolich Racing software.
Kind of funny when he is a tuner with his own dyno, think he struggles a bit with the new fangled way of flashing an ECU.

Not struggling at all with tuning. Just doesn’t want to get into trouble with the government as they have cracked down hard on companies selling items that affect emissions in the U.S. Huge fines and “for off road use only” doesn’t circumvent the EPA as they will need to comply. He currently won’t even sell any performance item that affects the epa. The EPA just hit the diesel programmers hard hard as well as the performance exhaust companies in the U.S. He is currently working with Chris giving him info after Chris programs the ECU. A longer process as it will take ~ 3 up and backs sending the ECU to dial the info correctly. You will be able to purchase the program from Chris that is dialed to Dale’s specs using information to modify your airbox along with a specific full exhaust setup that user would need to purchase elsewhere than Dale. I believe he is using and has it setup with BlackWidow. I have a BlackWidow full exhaust on my Bandit and am extremely pleased.