How much to have my suspension tuned?

Just looking into a few quotes to have the springs and valving replaced in the forks, and replacement shock for the rear. I've been quoted from $600 to $1000 to have the forks done. That is just Wilburs springs, race tech rebound/compression valving, and oil. If I wanted the seals and bushes done it would be extra. And $760 ish for a new Wilburs rear shock. Looking to get the work done somewhere close to Brisbane I'd reckon. These prices pretty well normal for that sort of work to be set up for me?

Mitch.

The rear shock sounds about right give or take for one fitted and a bit of time setting it up for your weight and stuff.

$1000 for front springs, valves and oil sounds like a bit rich to me but that will depend on labor prices and the kind of service you get from the dudes (or chicks) setting up your bike. A top person doing a top job is worth the money IMHO

For the front (keep in mind these are as brought prices not trade)
Oil will go for about $30 for a litre depending on what brand you get - priced at my local bike shop
Springs will go ~$150 for the set depending on which brand you get and weather they are linear or progressive (my suggestion is to get linear). - US prices so add postage
Valves will go for ~$2-300 depending on what you get - US prices so add postage

Cheers for that. I know a couple other lads who have had their bikes done at a place in Slacks Creek, Brisbane. I reckon it might be the way to go. Not to be a smart arse, but what makes you say linear springs? I would've thought progressive for general road work eh?

Mitch

Suspension specialists that know their stuff will always recommend linear springs.
They are easier to adjust damping for and progressive springs really don't achieve anything.
If you need progression it can be tuned by altering the air space in the forks via oil level.

You already have progressive springs and you know how well they work! BTW you don't need new valves, the stockers can be re-shimmed to suit and you will save $$$, what I would suggest is:

1. Springs, if < 80 Kg then 1.0 kg/mm or if you are > 80 kg then 1.1 kg/mm, also use 1.1's if you are of a sporting bent or do trackwork,
2. Damping modified to suit,
3 Holeshot forkbrace, on some bikes fork braces make stuff all difference, but the B1250 is not one of those bikes.

You should be up for about $500 if you buy your own bits and take in your fork legs, i.e. do your own dis-assembly/assembly.

PaulG wrote:Suspension specialists that know their stuff will always recommend linear springs.
They are easier to adjust damping for and progressive springs really don't achieve anything.
If you need progression it can be tuned by altering the air space in the forks via oil level.

Can't wait to hear your theory on this

PaulG is correct. The fork acts like a pump. It has a volume of in-compressible fluid (oil) topped by a compressible one (air) and is a sealed unit. As the fork is compressed then the air volume is reduced as so, as Mr Boyle would have it (Boyle's law that is), the pressure of the air increases. By increasing or decreasing the oil level, you change the air pressure. Be careful though, this is a fine tuning procedure, too much oil and you will blow your fork seals.

For comparison, I paid Suspension Smith in Fyshwick (Canberra) $400 to replace the front springs, valves and oil. The owner (Laurie) is a top bloke. He did check the seals but they were OK. It makes your quote seem a bit top heavy.