Delkevic Headers

Thought I'd get with the beat - ordered a set today.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271840098737?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

sweet

Why did you have post that?
Just fitted new chain, sprockets and handle bars, now I want this!!
Finding my self control is wavering terribly.

I had them on my 1250 Dave. Have you done the air box mod ? They are an easy install. Just fit everything very loosely to begin with. You will need the O2 sensor eliminator as well.

would be a bit lost hidden behind the fairing on my FA but they look the cats pajamas!

Nice Dave. Should help the understeer as well.

2wheelsagain wrote:Nice Dave. Should help the understeer as well.

What ???  

Hammy wrote:

2wheelsagain wrote:Nice Dave. Should help the understeer as well.

What ???  

The running wide/push effect the B1250 is known for

The collector on the Delkevic headers also interferes with Ohlin's rear shocks. The only aftermarket shock compatible with the Delkevics are Wilbers.

Now by an incredible stroke of coincidence my bike has a Wilbers, so if you just wheel yours into my shed I have a solution to your problem

#Tag wrote:The collector on the Delkevic headers also interferes with Ohlin's rear shocks. The only aftermarket shock compatible with the Delkevics are Wilbers.

Now by an incredible stroke of coincidence my bike has a Wilbers, so if you just wheel yours into my shed I have a solution to your problem

Wouldn't matter #tag - I tightened the top and bottom bolts with my 6m spanner extension. They can't be undone on anything less than a tennis court.

Well, the dry run went fine. Oh, not completely dry, I drank a cider!  Hoping for installation Friday or Sunday.

They go together pretty well, Dave.
Just don't loose the little number stickers until you're done. 
Keep everything loose until they're lined up correctly.  
Then unleash the beast. 

Are they staying on the couch ?

The last pipe is the trickiest to get in.



ps Dave.  If you have the time. Could you weigh them both for a comparo.  Cheers.

Never thought to weigj them. Will do.

Hammy wrote:Are they staying on the couch ?

The last pipe is the trickiest to get in.



ps Dave.  If you have the time. Could you weigh them both for a comparo.  Cheers.

 OEM go about 15kg

Pissed own rain here this arvo, so fitted the headers (they weigh 3.7kg). Yep, they are a bit tricky to fit but it is best to follow the instructions supplied (I tried a slightly different approach but then had to back track and do it per the sheet). The instructions say:

(1) Fit #1 and #4 headers finger tight to the manifold.
(2) Install the collector to these.
(3) Loosely fit the lower mounting bolt.
(4) Install #2 and #3 headers. (#2 was the hardest, probably because it had the firmest fit to the collector).  A bit of mucking about to engage the collector and the manifold but it can certainly be done.
(5) Fit the springs.
(5) Tighten everything up.
(6) Reinstall the sensor (unless you are also blocking off the PAIRS).  This barely reached as there is virtually no slack in the wiring loom.

The radiator had to come off so there was more mucking about to refill it, which means lifting the fuel tank to get to the radiator cap.

I'll probably dremel the belly-pan to better match the profile of the new headers (but it is not actually in contact with any of them).

And I need to go for a ride to see how she runs. But the rain has turned the dirt access road to pigswill so that might be happening on Sunday.

But you can certainly hear a deeper growl at idle.

That's quite a weight saving 

Good work. Weight wise they are about the same as the arrow headers. Will be interesting to hear your report of first ride

Holy crap, that's a massive weight saving. I was talking to someone yesterday about these and he strongly advised against them, due to the extra wear on the engine. Anyone care to chime in on that opinion? I'd really like to get some but he was saying that with the Bandit engine already wound fairly tight, it would be a waste of money, given the increased wear rate vs any gain from the headers. I just want to see if he was talking out his arse.

Headers do not cause any wear, who ever said that is talking porky pies. A lean fuel map will though. If you are to go this route and you've opened the air box as well I'd recommend a fuel controller and dyno tune to be safe.

I've had my arrows on for 20000kms so far. It seems to help the front end head skyward much easier

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"but he was saying that with the Bandit engine already wound fairly tight, it would be a waste of money, given the increased wear rate vs any gain from the headers. I just want to see if he was talking out his arse"

"Wound fairly tight" - you can't find a more bullet proof, understressed motor than these things. And it's a great example of how some bikes can achieve considerable hp/tourque gains easily and cheaply.  Granted there are plenty of bikes/motors where you can't get easy/worthwhile improvement, but the Bandit is not one of them

Managed to get a spin in this morning, only about 50kms. But the change is definitely noticeable. Any loss of performance I had in running up 75,000kms has been restored, and so has the throttle response. I'll have to watch the throttle when cruising as any small change makes for instant acceleration/deceleration.  Losing 11kg probably does help. Whilst I'm running a K&N air filter I haven't modified the airbox and I haven't blocked off the PAIRS. I'm impressed!

Gisaride 

I once read a good description of how engines work. 
Basically an internal combustion engine is an air pump. And the more air you can get it pumping,  the more power it will produce. 
We all know that a 5 litre V8 produces more power than a 2 litre 4 cyl. That's because it pumps more air because of it's volumetric advantage.  
To get more power from a particular motor,  all you have to do is make it pump more air. 
The standard headers on the Suzuki are fairly restrictive. Swapping for more free flowing headers allows more air to flow through the motor and results in more power.  
This is a very basic description, but it holds true. 
Other methods such as pushing more air through,  with a turbo or supercharger, produce the same result.  
Fuel air mixtures need to be addressed whenever you change the flow too much, or damage will result.

nice work,I didn't remove the radiator to fit mine but wish I did it made tightening no's 2&3 a real mission
get the tune sorted, its well worth it