Delkevic Headers

First topic message reminder :

Thought I'd get with the beat - ordered a set today.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271840098737?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Just interested in how much air it takes to get popping to occur on decal. A 4.8mm hole is as good as a full blockage by today's test runs.  I'm now wondering if it's all or nothing with the popping, ie you get none until you have full flow.  So I'm just messing about out of curiosity. There might be a point where some popping occurs but not as much as fully opened.

Another (simpler) way to proceed is to just get a silicon sealant application tube (the ones they give you when you buy the sealant) and just keep cutting it shorter, thereby opening the orifice with every cut. There's plent of room in the pipe from the airbox for this to be inserted. Can't see it melting (maybe). As I have about 40 spare ones in the shed, this will be easy!

Good to see you taking a scientific approach to the age old question that has puzzled man since the invention of emissions standards. 
How much air does it take to make it go "Pop"?

Bosco15 wrote:Good to see you taking a scientific approach to the age old question that has puzzled man since the invention of emissions standards. 
How much air does it take to make it go "Pop"?

That's it mate, one can of baked beans or two?

Right, so I've now removed the O2 sensor and put in a plug-with-resistor. As I understand things, it won't matter now if the air pipe is fully blocked or fully opened if my understanding of how this air injection works is correct. Unless the solenoid position is normally open and the sensor causes it to close (but I'm assuming it is normally shut and the sensor opens it on demand).

I just did my first oil & filter change since installing the Delkevic headers. A nice surprise - it is really easy to replace the filter without getting any oil on the header pipes or the collector, thus begging the question, why didn't Suzuki use this same profile for theirs?