Help - Bandit idling at 3000-6000 rpm tried everything to fix

Hi all,

I am new to forum and have a 2008 GSF1250 Bandit, love the bike but recently went on a trip and after filling up bike on idle slowed and died.

Took to a dealer who cleaned out everything but was still idling rough at 900rpm not 1100 as normal.

Since then have checked everything now it only idles at 3000-6000 way too fast and is unrideable.

I put it into dealer mode and there are no detected problems -c000 code and all looks fine.

However if I disconnect the IAP sensor in dealer mode it runs as about expected at 1100rpm, connect the IAP sensor and back to way high revs.

Have wd40ed the connectors, compressed air the inlet on the IAP, checked all the vacuum hose for leaks, checked all the throttle bodies outlets and all clean.

Does anyone have any suggestions of what I might try??????

Any help appreciated, spent $600 at the dealer and didn't even help so do not want to spend any more on a dealer.

With kind regards,

Scott

Sounds like you might have caught the fuel pump lurgy, check this thread.

barry_mcki wrote:Sounds like you might have caught the fuel pump lurgy, check this thread.

Gday, thanks, had a look at it but cannot reason why the pump would be problem as after disconnecting the IAP and leaving in dealer mode it does run at the usual 1100 and also was running normal under a twisted throttle it only happens at idle and straight away jumps to 3000-6000, have not changed anything?

Take it back to the dealer. They have not fixed the problem. The SDS software should be able to reset the idle.

reddog wrote:Take it back to the dealer. They have not fixed the problem. The SDS software should be able to reset the idle.

Yeh was a suzuki dealer and they returned it to me at 900rpm bloody hopeless and charged $600, Problem is I was on holidays and dealer is in another state.

Does anyone know if the healtech OBD device will allow an idle reset? Can buy three of them for the price of one botched service, so hesitant to even go to dealers with all my bikes because they are monkeys that charge for doing bugger all.

I still reckon its the IAP sensor and may try to get a secondhand one.

THe fuel pump fix will not cost you anything and you can bet the dealer didn't do it . I'd do that first . Also flush out tank
and take notice what comes out .Mine would ride fine ,bad ,ok ,slow ,fast all in 5 kls . The crud blocks ,then moves ,then half blocks .Suzuki electrics seem good so I'm going the above .
The workshop could probably find a electrical fault so its something they are not used to , or isn't in the manual .
3 normal things that make a bike go to check , Spark ,it has that . Air it has that , Fuel ????

gus wrote:THe fuel pump fix will not cost you anything and you can bet the dealer didn't do it . I'd do that first . Also flush out tank
and take notice what comes out .Mine would ride fine ,bad ,ok ,slow ,fast all in 5 kls . The crud blocks ,then moves ,then half blocks .Suzuki electrics seem good so I'm going the above .
The workshop could probably find a electrical fault so its something they are not used to , or isn't in the manual .
3 normal things that make a bike go to check , Spark ,it has that . Air it has that , Fuel ????

Ok many thanks, I'm going to order a 2nd unit for the IAP and have a look at the fuel. Is it reasonably easy to disassemble the pump and anything to look out for?

Have you checked the throttle bodies are balanced too? Follow Dhulas post on here as it is monkey see monkey do stuff.

Easy ,but remember its petrol .

I came across this ( read the last line )  assuming a sync was done maybe by the dealer ? 

http://www.banditforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=71242.0

TWT site also shows some similar problems caused by this .   
  
http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85823


I also think a fuel pump clean sounds in order as has already been stated .

ScottG wrote:

reddog wrote:Take it back to the dealer. They have not fixed the problem. The SDS software should be able to reset the idle.

Does anyone know if the healtech OBD device will allow an idle reset? Can buy three of them for the price of one botched service, so hesitant to even go to dealers with all my bikes because they are monkeys that charge for doing bugger all.

The Healtech will allow you to shut down the ISC for throttle body balancing and you can change idle setting but only while you are connected.
On disconnection the ISC will return to it's default setting of 1200rpm.
I'd first pull out the ISC and check its not jamming.


But I'd still backup reddog - back to the dealer.

Thanks very much everyone for the above suggestions I am going to try them in order one by one and find out what the problem is - I'll post the fix if successful in case anyone else suffers same problem because it's a baffling pain in the arse.

Mine would occasuinally develop an 1800rpm idle especially right after a hard ride.
I figured it was some sort of lean issue playing funny buggers with the O2 sensor.
Turning the bike off for 5 mins always fixed it.
Out of interest do you wait for the system to settle before starting or do you turn the key and hit the button?
Errors often give a hint during the system check.

Well I am stuffed if know what is going on - I adjusted the throttle body vacuum screws slowly until they were all the way down and it did bring the idle down to 2000rpm and still too high and when I blip the throttle it doesn't rev up and down smoothly but revs up and then "sticks" at about 3500rpm and slowly falls back down instead of an instant response. It is all just out of whack.

Is there a resource with instructions on how to dismantle the ISC valve for cleaning as the workshop manual doesn't show it?

In response to above post yes I always wait after turning on ignition, let it do its thing and then start it.

Just a stab in the dark....... But it sounds like the throttle cables. There might be some grit/dirt etc, or even a burred cable?!???

The ISC is the valve body under the throats of the throttle bodies on the right hand side. It's what controls your idle speed. You need a torx driver for it. Unscrew it, disconnect the two hoses running away from it, and run some carb/injector cleaner through the bore and let it dry.

" I adjusted the throttle body vacuum screws slowly until they were all the way down "
Could you give us some more info about what you did there?



Edit, don't worry about the ISC yet, we just need to know what you did with the adjuster screws.

The ISCV has a "learned" position. Electrical spikes at the wrong time can upset this learning.
The valve will need to be reset if this has happened. I'll check the manual for that procedure but googling might be quicker.

The ISC learned value will reset itself, Chris.

The SDS and OBD can manually trigger a reset, but if left alone the ECU will do it.

The only trouble they have apart from sudden electronic death is gumming up of the solenoid.


But if I read right on what Scott has done with the throttle screws this is all a moot argument.

#Tag wrote:


Edit, don't worry about the ISC yet, we just need to know what you did with the adjuster screws.

Probably this..................read the last post on this page....................

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85823

Bottoming the screws without a proper gauge isn't good. Can someone please lend him a manometer or a Morgan carbtune. The throttle bodies all have to be synchronized properly before dicking around with anything else. Changing different things just adds to more problems. One thing at a time and record everything like how many turns until the screws bottom. 

Read Dhulas post thoroughly on how to sync the tbs before changing anything else.

Chris,   good pick up - from the manual -under certain rare circumstances, when removing the ISC it can write a bad position to the ECU which will require a manual reset via SDS/OBD. I have done it when my idle started dropping to 900 and a clean up fixed it without need for a reset.

Paul, them there Texans are good 'ol boys, I've spent a lot of time scrolling through the Megathread (why don't we have a thumbs up emoticon?)

 You'll notice in the thread there are several possibilities for idle irregularity and each of them need to be worked through.

But it's still all moot - if Scott has grounded his air screws his throttle balance is completely gone and will have to be set up from scratch (and I've got no idea on how to do it - I better start googling too)

Edit
Hey reddog, you're quick - I've been typing slowly away with two fingers and my tongue poking out the side of my mouth - hit the submit button and see you're greased lightning (where's that goddam thumbs up, emoticon Chris???????)

Whew, I'm computerising around like a blue arsed fly, here.

Paul, yes, the very last post gives Scott some hope, but the manual says this is not the way to go about it, nor have I seen anyone doing it that way, but he's got nothing to lose.

Right! Backed off the vacuum screws a tad equally then took out the ISC valve and solenoid and clean it and it had carbon on it and also heaps of sh%t in the air passage. As a preliminary check after re-assembly the bike is smooth as and no longer has the sticky revs like before, it has also dropped to 1500rpm, higher than normal but rideable, I reckon now if I completely clean out the air chamber of crap and then tune the throttle bodies - I borrowed a morgan carb tune - then I will go near to being back to normal.

Any suggestions on what to use to clean that wont damage the engine alloy?

Thank you so much everyone for suggestions and advice it is so very much appreciated, nothing as frustrating as not being able to ride and not knowing what is wrong.

My best guess is that the plastic solenoid that covers and exposes the four airholes normally only at idle when stuck would still be letting air through under throttle causing the sticky revs and rough idling, even small amounts would mess with it because it is beautiful and smooth now just a tad high.

Anyway Ill let you know how it goes and follow the advice on tuning in dealer mode. Hopefully it will help someone else in the future that may encounter same frustrations.

Great news and we got there without me having to build a thumbs up icon

Good news Scott looks like we're on the right track now.............Hmmmm a thumbs up icon would be handy though