pair vavle and o2 sensor eliminator

Ok guys so i decided im gonna do the works to my bike its already got a slip on yoshi. Gonna remove secondaries block off pair valve add pc5 K&n air filter and air box mod..

My 2 questions are
can someone supply me a link for a pair valve elimimation kit for a 2010 gsx1250fa i cant seem to find one 

And a link to an o2 sensor eliminator.

Thanks guys

Type in pair or pairs into the search box on the home page , & that may help 

Thanks paul. Pair valve elimination set ordered from metric metal..now just need to find a suitable o2 sensor eliminator to work with the pc5

mstrrab1992 wrote:...now just need to find a suitable o2 sensor eliminator to work with the pc5

The Dynojet PC-V comes with an O² eliminator:



If you want to spend a little more you can also get their Autotune AT-200 kit that plugs into the PC-V and comes with a wide-band O² sensor so the bike can tune itself (or so says Dynojet).

Well that made me look like a fool hahaha. Thanks barry. might get the pc5 and get the auto tune later on

You were asking in the previous post how these controllers are tuned -

If you install a controller you can download a map from the manufacturer that most closely matches the mods you have down to your bike. That's why Dynotune or Bazzaz are often the best bets because they have the most available maps. The units come with software that you install on your laptop and you plug into the controller via usb to alter your maps.

Or you can take it to a dynotuner who will plug into the controller and create a fuel map for your bike. This option is obviously the most precise.

If you buy an Autotune (Bazzaz also sell them for their units) you will have to go to an engineering shop to have the bung in the exhaust headers cut out and replaced with a larger bung (supplied in the kits) to accept the wide band O2 sensor that replaces the narrow band sensor that is OEM.
The wide bands are an M18 thread where the narrows are an M12 or M13.

#Tag wrote:If you buy an Autotune (Bazzaz also sell them for their units) you will have to go to an engineering shop to have the bung in the exhaust headers cut out and replaced with a larger bung (supplied in the kits) to accept the wide band O2 sensor that replaces the narrow band sensor that is OEM.
The wide bands are an M18 thread where the narrows are an M12 or M13.

Some after-market headers come with the larger O² fitting, e.g. my Arrows did, so the bigger sensor fitted right in without any stuffing around.



If you have the original exhaust, be careful when trying to take the sensor out, mine snapped off at the bung, luckily I was replacing the complete exhaust anyway:

I gotta admit Barry, you've got a great library of pics. Threads are always better with pichas.

Thanks Tag, I take a fair few shots when I'm working on something, just in case I stuff up and have trouble putting it back together.

But a lot of the other shots come from Mr Google and the fact I'm retired and spend too much time sitting in front of the computer "researching stuff" instead of doing worth while things, like riding

Keeping info in a good computer file index system helps too, just for the bike alone I have over 8800 files spread over 360 directories.  I also purchased a program called Fireshot Pro (there is a free version as well) that allows capture, edit and save of almost anything on the screen.  Whilst you could do a lot of this using other tools such as "ALT PRINT SCREEN" and PAINT etc, this program does it all with a couple of key strokes.

Back to subject, Mstrrab don't ever think anything is a silly question, we only know this stuff because we've just been down that road a little earlier than you. You don't want to know how much time I spent looking into the PC-V before shelling out the cash for it, so if I can help anyone else with what I've learned (or broken) then I'm more than happy to assist. Asking questions on this forum is a great short cut to finding info, most of us don't mind relaying our experiences.

Appreciate it  my last bike which was a suzuki boulevard c50 i joined a forum..if i asked some advice it was only ever dont ask for help use that search button..and it was never any help. A phew people have told me to search things here and its always been the first search result that im after haha. 

But it looks like ive got everything on its way and once it all arrives itll be a good days work. I didnt get aftermarket headers tho.. but shouldnt be too much of an issue i hope? That maybe for down the track.. i chose pc5 because it seems best user friendly efi controller. And shouldnt be too hard to figure out tuning and maps etc.

Ok guys. i went to order the pair valve removal kit from metric metal and its telling me that it cannot be shipped outside the usa.


Can anyone help with that or can anyone suggest an alternative

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suzuki-GSF-1250-GSF1250-Bandit-Emissions-Reed-Plate-AIS-Smog-PAIR-Block-Off-Kit-/331504070875?hash=item4d2f2eb0db

Go to Holeshot.  That's where I got mine. 
http://www.holeshot.com/Bandit_1250/pair_rem.html

Dale Walkers  Hole Shot performance.    great site.

mstrrab1992 wrote:Ok guys. i went to order the pair valve removal kit from metric metal and its telling me that it cannot be shipped outside the usa.


Can anyone help with that or can anyone suggest an alternative

Thats probably MM refusing to ship to anyone on here
His stuff is good but he's a wanker. Well was when he was here anyway

But will that kit work with my bike? Dont i need resistors or something

mstrrab1992 wrote:But will that kit work with my bike? Dont i need resistors or something

Check out the Dale Walkers Hole Shot Performance site.

The original PAIRS system has a solinoid that opens to let fresh air into the exhaust to "dilute" the emmissions so that the EPA readings are lower - always a wank if you ask me as the same amount of "bad" junk is still being emmitted, we just put it in a larger sample, anyway back on track ...

If you remove all the PAIR piping and wiring, then the bike ECU will develope a fault as it can no longer sense the solinoid voltage load, and could possiblely send off an FI warning light, not sure if it does anything else than set of a warning.

The MM kit includes the resistor and a mounting plate, I found I had to modify the plate a little to get it to sit better (my OCD coming out again):



Sorry this photo is not in focus enough to read the value of the resistor, but I seem to remember someone on here asked the same question so (you knew this was coming...) a search might show the size of it.  Not sure if I'll have time to pull my tank off today to have a closer look, I think it was about 10 ohms but don't take that for granted.  You'll be able to get the high power resistor from Jay-Car or one of the other electronic parts stores.

If your own search doesn't help, here's a great link by SolomonKane:  MM Kit install

And another by Reardo:   MM kit info

Edit:

Here is info from the Manual about the Bandit sensors:  



The PAIR Solenoid is the second last item, 18 to 22 ohms.  So taking worse case, 22 ohms at 14v thats about 10watts, so to be on the safe side a 25w resistor would be better, just had a quick look on JAY-Car, unfortunately they don't stock them, so it might be a eBay search.

Time for your elecktrickery knowhow Barry -

A pretty wide range of resistors seems to give acceptable voltages.
Mine has a 1k, but I've read of 500 ohm through to 10k being used. What sort of voltages would that range be producing?

Edit - your edit came through after this post.

I'm using a ceramic resistor with the legs bent down into the plug contacts.

It sounds like resistors have other characteristics apart from just their resistance to determine the voltage they produce? ( the wattage must be the other determining value?)
As in most seem to pick a .25watt and vary the resistance value to get the desired result.

#Tag wrote:Time for your elecktrickery knowhow Barry -

A pretty wide range of resistors seems to give acceptable voltages.
Mine has a 1k, but I've read of 500 ohm through to 10k being used. What sort of voltages would that range be producing?

Edit - your edit came through after this post.

I'm using a ceramic resistor with the legs bent down into the plug contacts.

It sounds like resistors have other characteristics apart from just their resistance to determine the voltage they produce?

Basic 'lektricity is fairly simple, summed up by Ohms Law, which is Voltage equals Resistance times Current ( V=R x I ), From that you can work out any one parameter if you know the other two.  The other formular is Power equals Voltage times Current ( P =  V x I ), and again you can work out other parameter if you know at least two, for example Resistance if you know power and current.



On a vehicle the voltage can range from 12 to 14 volts (or more), so sometimes it worthwhile checking both ends of the scale (i.e. that solenoid at 18 ohms and 12volts was only 6.5 watts, so you might think a 10 watt resistor would be fine, however if in fact it was 22 ohms and the bike was pushing out 14 volts the power disapated by the resistor is 10.5 watts.

Anyway, getting back to the FI light and the substitute resistor, the reason other values seem to work from what I can tell, is that the ECU just needs a little current flow in the PAIR wire to think its working, so even though your 1K ohm is 50 times larger (hence the current is 50 times smaller) there is still enough flowing so as not to trip off the ECU electronics into thinking something is wrong.  

What is better, the 20 ohms or the 1000 ohms ?  Technically the 20 ohms is pretty close to the original value of the solenoid winding so it simulates the load as originally placed on the ECU, however this smaller value resistor has a relatively large current through it (about 0.7 amps) and hence the larger size to disapated the heat generated.  If the ECU can be "kept quiet" with 1000 ohms and it doesn't cause any other issues (which I am assuming it doesn't otherwise you would have seen this and changed it out) then I think it is probably better (the 1000 ohms that is) as there is less current drawn, therefore less power wasted in the form of heat, and also more power available for other things.

BTW, 1k ohm at 14 volts is only 0.2 watts, so you should not need the big gold or ceramic style resistors, even a little carbon resistor should work.



Edit x2 - Don't you hate it when others are typing info at the same time as yourself that makes your post look out of date

very interesting o.o well your a wealth of knowledge arnt you barry  


So i just reset my TPS aswell..by fluke..i got to the step of resetting it..and no matter how hard i tried i could not get it right..so i got the shit with it after 40 mins.. so i tightened everything up and after tightening it all up and putting the fairing back on. i noticed that the dash showed -C00 instead of _C00...........what a fluke..

but i have emailed a phew places to try and get this pair valve elimination kit, shall see how that goes

barry_mcki wrote:
What is better, the 20 ohms or the 1000 ohms ?  Technically the 20 ohms is pretty close to the original value of the solenoid winding so it simulates the load as originally placed on the ECU, however this smaller value resistor has a relatively large current through it (about 0.7 amps) and hence the larger size to disapated the heat generated.  If the ECU can be "kept quiet" with 1000 ohms and it doesn't cause any other issues (which I am assuming it doesn't otherwise you would have seen this and changed it out) then I think it is probably better (the 1000 ohms that is) as there is less current drawn, therefore less power wasted in the form of heat, and also more power available for other things.

BTW, 1k ohm at 14 volts is only 0.2 watts, so you should not need the big gold or ceramic style resistors, even a little carbon resistor should work.



Edit x2 - Don't you hate it when others are typing info at the same time as yourself that makes your post look out of date

Ahh, now I remember (and now I know that my resistors are carbon and not ceramic)

The recommendation I picked was to use low wattage high resistance so the resistor ran cool. Some guys reported that higher wattage lower resistance were failing quicker (they thought because of the hot environment sitting right on top of the motor) Anyway the .25 watt 1k has been in there for 5 years and is still going.