Need instructions Pairs Kit Metrick Metal

Bought the Metrick Metal Pairs Kit from CGN21.

Unfortunately it was sent to him with no instructions.

If anyone still has theirs any chance you would be able to scan and email me a copy?

No worries if not, I'll just email Metrick and ask if I can get a copy from them.

SolomonKane wrote:Bought the Metrick Metal Pairs Kit from CGN21.

Unfortunately it was sent to him with no instructions.

If anyone still has theirs any chance you would be able to scan and email me a copy?

No worries if not, I'll just email Metrick and ask if I can get a copy from them.

Easy.  Undo existing plates.  Replace.  Leave the PAIR reeds and gaskets in place.  Trace vacuum pipe to airbox and cap the spigot there.  Cut the electrical connector off and replace with resistor (solder this) and mount it to a nearby frame bolt.

The biggest hassle was getting an allen key to fit the far right bolt on the PAIR.  I cut one shorter to fit.  You don't need gasket cement either.

Thanks Kewig. Your always a great help mate, much appreciated. CGN21 did a search for me and Metrick had sent him the instructions by email. He's forwarded them to me.

But tips like these are brilliant for me because my dyslexia makes spatial reasoning nigh impossible for me. Some of the instruction sheets are way too brief for me and are full of gaps where they assume knowledge that I just don't have yet.

Will report back when the job is done.

Just in case some else rocks up looking for the same thing instructions are pasted below.

PAIR Removal Instructions

This kit contains the following parts.
 
(2) Block off plates, (1) Resistor assembly, (1) 3 way hose tee fitting, (1) ½” vinyl cap
(4) 3/16” vinyl caps, (2) ¼” vinyl caps, (2) Butt splice crimp connectors, (1) Ty-rap                       
 
PAIR Block Off Plates Installation Instructions

Install first
 
Step #1. Remove the fuel tank per the owner’s manual instructions.
 
Step #2. Disconnect PAIR system air supply hose from the right side of the air box and cap the opening on the air box with the supplied ½” vinyl cap.
 
Step #3. Disconnect the air supply hoses from reed valve covers, and then disconnect the electrical connector from the control valve solenoid and remove the valve and the hoses.
 
Note:  Some installer may find it hard to remove the reed valve covers, so if you find that’s there’s not enough room for your hands it helps to move the thermostat housing back out of the way, so refer to the service manual for removing the thermostat housing, which entails draining approximately 1 qt of coolant out of the system, then removing the  large radiator hose from the top right side of the radiator as well as the radiator over flow tube. Then unbolt the thermostat housing from the frame and pull it back out of the way. A bungee cord works well at holding the thermostat housing out of the way.              
 
Step #5. Remove the two reed valve covers. Place the side of the block off plates with the 4 recess holes over the heads of the rivets on the reed valves.
 
Step #6. Secure each block off plates to the valve cover using the screws from the reed valve covers.   
 
Step #7. Refer to the factory service manual on filling and bleeding the cooling system.
 
PAIR Control Valve Solenoid Resistor Installation Instructions
 
Install second
 
Step #1. Remove the 6mm hex flange bolt that attaches the main wiring loom strap to the threaded tab on the inside of the frame, just above the right hand corner of the valve cover, and remove the strap.
 
Step #2. Secure the main wiring loom to the frame using the supplied tie wrap thru the hole just to the right of the threaded mounting tab.
 
Step #3. Attach the resistor bracket to the threaded tab on the frame with the 6mm flange bolt.    
NOTE: Besides connecting the PAIR resistor using the method described in step #4, you can also choose to solder the leads from the resistor to the wires from the PAIR solenoid valve, by first cutting off the electrical connector as described in step #4, then soldering the wires together using a western union style solder joint, then covering the connections with shrink tubing, otherwise proceed to step #4 to connect the resistor using the supplied butt splice crimp connectors.           
 
Step #4. Cut the two wires on electrical connector for the PAIR solenoid valve 3” back of the end of the connector plug. Then strip 3/8” of an inch off of each of the wires and twist the ends of each of the wires so that they can be inserted into the supplied butt splice crimp connectors. Insert each end of the wires into one end of the supplied butt splice crimp connectors, and while holding the wires into the butt splice connectors, crimp the connectors using proper crimping pliers placed within the circular marks on the butt splice connectors. Repeat this process for connecting the wires from the resistor to the other ends of the butt splice connectors. 
 
Step #5.
Wrap the butt splice connectors with electrical tape to seal help seal the connection from dirt and moisture, and secure the wires to the existing wiring above the valve cover with tie wraps or electrical tape, making sure that the wires do not touch the top of the engine.            
           
Refer to the pictures on my website www.metrickmetal.com for this kit that shows all the PAIR/EVAP system parts that get removed and the resistor mounting Location. For technical assistance please call 661-722-5226 between and 8pm Pacific time, or email your questions to www.metrickmetal@hotmail.com
 
I suggest that you box up all of the PAIR and EVAP system components that you have removed and keep them just in the case that you have to install them back on the bike for any type of vehicle inspection that your state may implement in the future.
 
MetrickMetal EVAP (Charcoal canister) System Removal Instructions
 
Note: EVAP systems are only on US spec Bandit 1250’s, which is mounted on the frame on the right rear side of the cowling. So if your Bandit is not equipped with an EVAP system, you do not need to proceed with the steps below and you will have the following parts left over from the kit, the plastic hose tee connector and 6 small vinyl caps.
 
Perform last
 
Step #1. Remove the gas tank per the owners/factory service manual instructions.
 
Step #2. Remove the top black plastic cowling trim panel, then remove the right rear cowling
mount bolt. 
 
Step #3. Remove the two rubber vent hoses from the canister valve located on the left rear cowling mounting bracket. Cover the openings on the valve with the two ¼” vinyl caps.
    
Step #4.
Remove the 4 small grey rubber vents hoses from the throttle bodies and the hose that connects  them to the canister valve and cap the 4 ports on the throttle body with the four 3/16” vinyl caps.
 
Step #5.
Disconnect the fabric covered gas tank vent hose from the from the end of the steel vent line that runs along the right top frame tube.
 
Step #6.
Remove the charcoal canister mounting bracket, hoses and steel vent line. 
 
Step #7.
Remove the charcoal canister and the breather valve from the mounting bracket and install the bracket back onto the frame.
 
Step #8. Remove the right side frame cover, and then remove pre-curved gas tank overflow line from the factory white plastic 3-way connector that the coolant recovery tank vent line connects too. Cut gas tank over flow vent line 2” back from the straight end, then install the 3-way hose connector from the kit between the two sections of hoses with the center of the connector facing towards the left side of the bike.
 
Step #9. Connect the straight end of the gas tank over flow vent line back onto the 3-way hose connector that you removed it from, and then connect the gas tank vent line to the center fitting on the 3-way hose connector you installed in the gas tank over flow line.     
 
Step #10. Install the gas tank per the owners/factory service manual instructions.

Best thing I ever did to the Bandit