Gsxr 1000 , 07-08 , rear shock fitment to 1250 Bandit .
+6
mtbeerwah
Big_Dez
reddog
Hammy
Ewok1958
gus
10 posters
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Gsxr 1000 , 07-08 , rear shock fitment to 1250 Bandit .
First topic message reminder :
Time to fit - 1 hr
How hard to do -Easy .
Tools - sockets and allen keys .(No cutting of filing )
What will you need - the shock and a pair of 20mm LIFT , dog bones . This will give you standard height
Cost ,all up (e-bay ) $150
Heavier than 105 kg you may need a stronger spring .
Sticky ??
Time to fit - 1 hr
How hard to do -Easy .
Tools - sockets and allen keys .(No cutting of filing )
What will you need - the shock and a pair of 20mm LIFT , dog bones . This will give you standard height
Cost ,all up (e-bay ) $150
Heavier than 105 kg you may need a stronger spring .
Sticky ??
gus- Posts : 6176
Join date : 2010-11-23
Age : 73
Location : Cygnet ,Tasmania
Re: Gsxr 1000 , 07-08 , rear shock fitment to 1250 Bandit .
I don`t know if you have a "Dobinsons Springs" down there, but there are a few in Australia. There may be one close to you.
They have a decent name, and can make just about anything.
They specialize in 4WD, but a spring is a spring, and they can set their machines to any length and rate
They have a decent name, and can make just about anything.
They specialize in 4WD, but a spring is a spring, and they can set their machines to any length and rate
mtbeerwah- Posts : 1787
Join date : 2010-02-20
Location : Brisbane
Re: Gsxr 1000 , 07-08 , rear shock fitment to 1250 Bandit .
Maybe they had the description on the package wrong "Hayabusa" or Peregrine Falcon. Maybe they thought you were dealing with bird smugglers.
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madmax- Posts : 4305
Join date : 2011-10-19
Age : 60
Location : Carrum Downs, Victoria
Re: Gsxr 1000 , 07-08 , rear shock fitment to 1250 Bandit .
Finally got round to doing some work on the bike and sidecar shocks.
Put the seal kit thru the sidecar IKON shock, bugger of a job if you don't have the two-pin spanners. Gave my new spring compressors a workout - the adjusting nuts have a square drive indentation so used the battery drill to wind them in and out. Anyway replaced two of the three o-rings, couldn't take the two-pin nut of shaft top to get to the last o-ring so lets hope it is still okay otherwise I'll need to buy some new tools.
The 2012 Busa shock wasn't too much trouble once i worked out the back wheel needed to go up or down to get the bolts lined up. Never notice the hole on the left of the main frame of the bike, but this allows an extension shaft and socket to get to the top bolt of the shock - saw that little gem in a photo in the manual when I was looking for info on the bolt sizes (never did fine the sizes in the manual). Another little trick was to remove the sleeves of the dog-bone bolts to help get the bolts out past the various obstructions - Delboy's You-tube helped out with that one.
So the adjustable dog-bones didn't fit - into the top draw with the other useless bits I've accumulated.
I've set the Busa shock up for two-up riding; 183mm spring length thanks to the spring compressors and battery drill again, 11 clicks rebound, and 8 clicks compression. Did all this before inserting the shock to make life a bit easier. I did trim the plastic tray to make room for the Busa's gas expansion chamber, but looking at the setup now I don't think it was really necessary. Mine is not an ABS fitted bike so no need to worry about the ABS module that usually sits in that area.
The axle to rear frame distance measurement I was using with the standard links (180mm centre-to-centre) gave me 415mm. The smallest of the new three hole links (178mm c-to-c) gave 460mm (45mm higher than standard), whilst the middle setting (192mm c-to-c) came in at 397mm (18mm less than standard). My calculations assuming it is a linear progression is a dog-bone c-to-c length of 188mm. BTW, my calcs show the standard links (180mm c-to-c) would have risen the bike by 36mm; now that I know the tricks involved with this black magic of rear suspension changes I might throw these standard links in to see how close the calculations are.
So for the time being I'll leave it at 18mm lower, I think that would be better than 45mm higher. I'm hoping that the harder setting on the bike and sidecar shocks and the bigger (std) Busa spring will make up for the slightly lower ride height.
Put the seal kit thru the sidecar IKON shock, bugger of a job if you don't have the two-pin spanners. Gave my new spring compressors a workout - the adjusting nuts have a square drive indentation so used the battery drill to wind them in and out. Anyway replaced two of the three o-rings, couldn't take the two-pin nut of shaft top to get to the last o-ring so lets hope it is still okay otherwise I'll need to buy some new tools.
The 2012 Busa shock wasn't too much trouble once i worked out the back wheel needed to go up or down to get the bolts lined up. Never notice the hole on the left of the main frame of the bike, but this allows an extension shaft and socket to get to the top bolt of the shock - saw that little gem in a photo in the manual when I was looking for info on the bolt sizes (never did fine the sizes in the manual). Another little trick was to remove the sleeves of the dog-bone bolts to help get the bolts out past the various obstructions - Delboy's You-tube helped out with that one.
So the adjustable dog-bones didn't fit - into the top draw with the other useless bits I've accumulated.
I've set the Busa shock up for two-up riding; 183mm spring length thanks to the spring compressors and battery drill again, 11 clicks rebound, and 8 clicks compression. Did all this before inserting the shock to make life a bit easier. I did trim the plastic tray to make room for the Busa's gas expansion chamber, but looking at the setup now I don't think it was really necessary. Mine is not an ABS fitted bike so no need to worry about the ABS module that usually sits in that area.
The axle to rear frame distance measurement I was using with the standard links (180mm centre-to-centre) gave me 415mm. The smallest of the new three hole links (178mm c-to-c) gave 460mm (45mm higher than standard), whilst the middle setting (192mm c-to-c) came in at 397mm (18mm less than standard). My calculations assuming it is a linear progression is a dog-bone c-to-c length of 188mm. BTW, my calcs show the standard links (180mm c-to-c) would have risen the bike by 36mm; now that I know the tricks involved with this black magic of rear suspension changes I might throw these standard links in to see how close the calculations are.
So for the time being I'll leave it at 18mm lower, I think that would be better than 45mm higher. I'm hoping that the harder setting on the bike and sidecar shocks and the bigger (std) Busa spring will make up for the slightly lower ride height.
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Red 2007 GSF-1250S with SRK Premier Sidecar
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