Steering Head Bearing Replacement

Contemplateing doing the steering head bearings myself.  Has anyone here done theirs, and if so, what did you use to install the new races into the frame.  I know there is a special tool to do it properly, but is there another method.  Was qouted $300 for a shop to do the job. A good bearing kit is only around $50.

morning Hammy,

just curious as to why your contemplating changing the head bearings,

my bike has still the original bearings after 170 000km`s, and there`s nothing wrong with them, regular servicing, and there fine.

Put the bearing race in the freezer for an hour before fitting and then, with a small hammer, tap tap tap tapitty tap, nice and gentle all the way around.

You may also apply some heat, ....carefully.... to the steering head; as always slow and easy.

With the heat plus the freeze it may even drop in.

mtbeerwah wrote:morning Hammy,

just curious as to why your contemplating changing the head bearings,

my bike has still the original bearings after 170 000km`s, and there`s nothing wrong with them, regular servicing, and there fine.

The front end took quite a thump when I blew the fork seal. When I got home and took the front wheel off I could feel the slightest bit of movement back and forth. As well, the standard bearings are just balls. Would much sooner have rollers in there. If I do it now then I know it is not going to let me down, down the road.

Dekenai wrote:Put the bearing race in the freezer for an hour before fitting and then, with a small hammer, tap tap tap tapitty tap, nice and gentle all the way around.

You may also apply some heat, ....carefully.... to the steering head; as always slow and easy.

With the heat plus the freeze it may even drop in.

Cheers Dekenai.  Did not think of the old freezer trick. That will probably work. Now I feel more confident I will order the bearing kit.  Should be a good little project.  Fingers crossed.

Hammy wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:morning Hammy,

just curious as to why your contemplating changing the head bearings,

my bike has still the original bearings after 170 000km`s, and there`s nothing wrong with them, regular servicing, and there fine.

The front end took quite a thump when I blew the fork seal. When I got home and took the front wheel off I could feel the slightest bit of movement back and forth. As well, the standard bearings are just balls. Would much sooner have rollers in there. If I do it now then I know it is not going to let me down, down the road.

fair call on the balls and not having rollers, Suzuki must have gone backwards there with the head set, as the gen 2 has rollers.

just do as Dekenai  said with tapping out using a long pin punch, or the likes of for release, with even alternating hits,  and when putting in the new one, also freeze like Dekenai said the race, and get something of same size to the race to tap back in, or use a G or F clamp, and press it in. Pressing is far better than hitting.

mtbeerwah wrote:

Hammy wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:morning Hammy,

just curious as to why your contemplating changing the head bearings,

my bike has still the original bearings after 170 000km`s, and there`s nothing wrong with them, regular servicing, and there fine.

The front end took quite a thump when I blew the fork seal. When I got home and took the front wheel off I could feel the slightest bit of movement back and forth. As well, the standard bearings are just balls. Would much sooner have rollers in there. If I do it now then I know it is not going to let me down, down the road.

fair call on the balls and not having rollers, Suzuki must have gone backwards there with the head set, as the gen 2 has rollers.

just do as Dekenai  said with tapping out using a long pin punch, or the likes of for release, with even alternating hits,  and when putting in the new one, also freeze like Dekenai said the race, and get something of same size to the race to tap back in, or use a G or F clamp, and press it in. Pressing is far better than hitting.

Thanks mtbeerwah.

I,ve done plenty of these and its never been pleasurable or straight forward .Then again it didn't cost $300 .
Allow 3 time the time you think it will take and be prepared to get angry . You will probably have to make a special driver to extract the cups .(scrap stainless 8mm rod , 400mm long +-)
An array of different size pipes to use as slides is handy.

The freezer got used as well much to Carols dismay  at finding a big T steel thing in the fridge .

gus wrote:I,ve done plenty of these and its never been pleasurable or straight forward .Then again it didn't cost $300 .
Allow 3 time the time you think it will take and be prepared to get angry . You will probably have to make a special driver to extract the cups .(scrap stainless 8mm rod , 400mm long +-)
An array of different size pipes to use as slides is handy.

The freezer got used as well much to Carols dismay  at finding a big T steel thing in the fridge .

Thanks Gus.  I will be taking my time.  The freezer story reminds me of when I rebuilt a GSXR a long time ago. I painted the entire engine ( that was stripped down by my mechanic mate ) . I baked the painted pieces in our new oven in our brand new house.  Ex wife was not too happy when she came home and asked "what's that funny smell "?   The result was fantastic though.   I thought.

Cheers.

Really, its all the crap that gets in the way that's the problem .Bars, cables and wiring ect .
Best to remove petrol tank .

OEM B1250 bearings are tapered rollers.  Gixxers use balls.

gus wrote:Really its all the crap that gets in the way that's the problem .Bars, cables and wiring ect .
Best to remove petrol tank .

Don't worry.  The tank will be the first thing to come off.  Might be able to tie bars up to a " Sky hook " .  Bearings are on the way.

Dekenai wrote:OEM B1250 bearings are tapered rollers.  Gixxers use balls.

Oh well.  The kit was not expensive and the shop that quoted me was with new bearings. I bet there wont be much grease in them .