dyno run question

when i bought my bike which is a 1200 k1 carbd bandit the fella i bought it off said he had it dyno tuned after he put the yoshi can on..
now im not familiar with the dyno but it does say base run on the sheet,can anyone tell me,do i need further tuning looking at this sheet?
is it running lean?
as you can tell i have no idea,when i got the bike i took it out on a closed track and ran it up to 240k,seemed pretty good to me..no pinging that i could hear...
is it okay to ride like this if it is running lean?
forgot to mention bike been sitting in a shed since 09 so i prob should do another tune.done 0 miles since tune at all..i just done a full service and want to take her for another ride..thanks everyone

I presume the bottom is the air fuel ratio. If so I believe it should be 12-13 to 1 so might need a slight rejet

Still I'd ride it to be honest. The old oil burners are bullet proof

Would pay to pull the carbies out and check if the jets have been redone. There is a lot that you can do to the 1200's to get the max out of them. It too will want more air in with the Yoshi. The standard filter is not up to it. Make sure you run a hi flow filter.  A lot of guys stick a nice new can on and think that that has improved everything. Not so. A lot of it is by the seat of your pants though. If it runs ok and is not overheating then that's fine. A good mechanic is worth his weight in gold.

hammy how would you know if it was overheating?

If you want to go for a ride to Victor Harbor I highly recommend Neville Lush racing for a dyno tune.

thankyou,ive thought about taking it to him a few times,what sort of money do you rekn that he would charge for a good tune,anyone have any idea???

fat pete wrote:hammy how would you know if it was overheating?

Just the normal signs.  The engine itself seems really hot in normal riding. The tops of the headers are blue.

watto110 wrote:If you want to go for a ride to Victor Harbor I highly recommend Neville Lush racing for a dyno tune.

+1 Neville did my bandit 1250. It was $350, But that's Fuel Injected not Carby.
Very happy with his work.

thanks again for the replys,Hammy my headers are ceramic coated black,but ill watch out for it running hot..took her for a 50 k ride as ive just done chain and sprockets,what a difference doing that made..going very good considering she has been stored for a few years.very smooth and gear changing seems seamless,love it but to easy to get done speeding.tryn to sit on 100k is a joke not to mention boring

Air/Fuel is optimum at 13.8

so looking at that graph then i probably shouldnt be riding it with it dipping under 13?it doesnt ping that i can hear and runs extremely well..

fat pete wrote:so looking at that graph then i probably shouldnt be riding it with it dipping under 13?it doesnt ping that i can hear and runs extremely well..

13 is ok. Remember, it's Air/Fuel, so 13 is air. meaning it's a tiny bit rich.

I had a K1 1200. I had to keep going up in jet sizes to get it right. To me that graph looks ok but I would check by doing plug chops as well.

If its to lean at lower in the revs she will stutter.

To plug chop ride the bike at the revs you want to check, pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch. Pull a plug and check the colour.

Does it still have the pair system? That can cause faulty readings on dyno runs.

If I can dig it out I have the manual for stage1/2 jst kits from holeshot. I lived buy it and it worked well.

Ive got fuel injection now,