checking chain tension

when checking the tension of the drive chain should it be done on the centre stand or should you have someone sitting on the bike and then check tension,thought you might have to do it with some weight on it to replicate going down the road,any help here would be greatly appreciated

THEy say with someone sitting on the bike but there is no way I going looking for a helper to check chain tension .
Put it on centerstand and check once ,with someone sitting on it .After that allow + or_ the next time your on your own .
(if its any difference )

The manual says on the centre stand, not a word about anyone sitting on the bike:

thanks very much fellas,ill follow the advise from barrys workshop manual,i used to always do my old shovelheads adjustment with someone on it,probably was doing it wrong for years...thanks again fellas..

A caution from me:
I believe the recommend amount of slack isn't enough in my opinion.
String line the bike once then adjust equally from then on.

I always do mine on the side stand to allow for the bikes weight & my hand manual which came with the bike also says side stand not center stand ( the workshop manual says center though ................I was always taught side stand ) Just be aware that when you tighten the axle nut it can make your chain go tighter

I was also taught to sit on the bike whilst both wheels are on the ground, lean down and feel the slack in the chain with the weight on the bike. If it needs adjusting, put the bike on the side stand, loosen the axle nut and the adjuster nuts, then using a spanner, turn the hexagon of the adjusters 2 to 3 flats each time, and check the tension again, if the tension feels right, lock the adjusters lock nuts, give the wheel a boot (kick forward whilst holding the back of the bike so you don't boot it off the side stand) to make sure the wheel hasn't moved then tighten the axle nut. That method has worked fine for me for the last 50 years.
Hope you can understand this...
Regards
Paul

Although the manual calls for a centre stand adjustment be careful to check the tension when it's back on the ground. I found it was way too tight, and had to to recheck and adjust several times until it was right. Next time, I'll just do it on the side stand like I used to on my previous sport bikes that had no centre stand. Part of the problem is the idiotic setup of the adjuster bolts. Why they couldn't place them at the back like they used to, I'll never know.

Once you've done it once, you can make an allowance for the additional tension tightening the nut adds, thereafter, you know how much extra slack to allow for.

To adjust the chain to the right tension, before I tighten the main axle nut, I adjust the slack out of the chain till I get about 4cm of slack(this is with the bike on the centre stand) then I shove an old thick piece of rag into the upper part where the chain meets the rear sprocket and I turn the wheel backwards so the rag gets caught in between the chain and the rear sprocket. This causes tension on the chain and sprocket that pulls the whole wheel forward against the adjusters. While I'm doing this I tighten the main wheel nut to almost its full torque. Then I turn the wheel forwards and take the rag out and check for the correct amount of slack. I do the old rag trick because usually when you tighten the main nut the wheel tends to move backwards away from the adjusters which tensions the chain too much. This method gives a more constant slack adjustment.

thankyou everyone for your very much appreciated help on this chain tensioning drama that it turned into,,man o man i dont kno how many times that i tried adjusting that bloody chain,,but i got it as good as itll get which aint that great,,i have found out that the chain is stuffed so when i get back from our getaway ill be getting chain and sprockets renewed,again i must thank everyone for their input,its been of the utmost help to me,thankyou..

Just finished checking my chain tension (the hard way). I disconnected the dog bones and lifted the rear wheel until the rear axle/swingarm pivot and front sprocket centre were in line. Adjusted chain slack to 5 - 10mm.
Reassembled and rechecked according to the manual - there was 30mm slack by this method.