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CO2 Sensor Question.

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Post  Hammy Sun 06 Jan 2013, 10:22 am

I have a new set of Delkevic headers on the way from the States. I'm assuming that they will not have a thread to attach the CO2 sensor to them. I do not have a Power Commander and was thinking, should I drill a hole and weld a nut onto the Delkevics to accomodate the sensor. Would this work, or has someone come up with a different solution when installing aftermarket headers.

Shuold I install one of these ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NITRO-X-O2-OXYGEN-LAMBDA-SENSOR-ELIMINATOR-FOR-GSX-1250-FA-GSF-1250-650-BANDIT-/370562581991?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56474045e7
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Post  madmax Sun 06 Jan 2013, 11:27 am

Hammy wrote:I have a new set of Delkevic headers on the way from the States. I'm assuming that they will not have a thread to attach the CO2 sensor to them. I do not have a Power Commander and was thinking, should I drill a hole and weld a nut onto the Delkevics to accomodate the sensor. Would this work, or has someone come up with a different solution when installing aftermarket headers.

Shuold I install one of these ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NITRO-X-O2-OXYGEN-LAMBDA-SENSOR-ELIMINATOR-FOR-GSX-1250-FA-GSF-1250-650-BANDIT-/370562581991?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56474045e7

Well your going to have to do one or the other. I'd go with the eliminator

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Post  Hammy Sun 06 Jan 2013, 11:34 am

madmax wrote:
Hammy wrote:I have a new set of Delkevic headers on the way from the States. I'm assuming that they will not have a thread to attach the CO2 sensor to them. I do not have a Power Commander and was thinking, should I drill a hole and weld a nut onto the Delkevics to accomodate the sensor. Would this work, or has someone come up with a different solution when installing aftermarket headers.

Shuold I install one of these ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NITRO-X-O2-OXYGEN-LAMBDA-SENSOR-ELIMINATOR-FOR-GSX-1250-FA-GSF-1250-650-BANDIT-/370562581991?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56474045e7

Well your going to have to do one or the other. I'd go with the eliminator

Cheers MM. Thats what I recon. Pretty cheap and easy.. Just wanted to hear any other advice on the matter.
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Post  kewwig Sun 06 Jan 2013, 1:16 pm

The pics I looked at for the Delkevic header showed the threaded plug for the O2 sensor. Once you have those headers, go for a TFI from Dale Walker. I got 130.8 Hp from a mate's bike with Dale's setup and headers.
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Post  Hammy Sun 06 Jan 2013, 1:44 pm

kewwig wrote:The pics I looked at for the Delkevic header showed the threaded plug for the O2 sensor. Once you have those headers, go for a TFI from Dale Walker. I got 130.8 Hp from a mate's bike with Dale's setup and headers.

Thanks Kewwig. I have already ordered the O2 eliminater. At that price it is worth a try. Cheers.
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Post  Classypete Wed 09 Jan 2013, 12:13 pm

I have already installed a set of delkevic headers on my 2012FA. It comes with a hole and nut for the o2 sensor, plus a plug.
I have a thread on two wheeled texans forum. I will add it here later tonight.

Cheers
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Post  madmax Wed 09 Jan 2013, 12:51 pm

Classypete wrote:I have already installed a set of delkevic headers on my 2012FA. It comes with a hole and nut for the o2 sensor, plus a plug.
I have a thread on two wheeled texans forum. I will add it here later tonight.

Cheers

That's good to know. I was wondering if the delkevic headers would get too hot for the lower fairing, aren't they single skinned?

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Post  reddog Wed 09 Jan 2013, 3:23 pm

The lower fairing should have that silver heat reflective tape stuck on the fairings. If it doesn't I'd recommend you add some just in case. Double skinned wouldn't keep them that much cooler, actually losing the cat means less heat anyway
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Post  madmax Wed 09 Jan 2013, 5:08 pm

Thanks, I think the heat tape is there from factory.

Sounds like a plan for the future then Smile

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Post  Hammy Wed 09 Jan 2013, 6:00 pm

The tracking number I was given tells me that my headers were at the Sydney sorting station yesterday, about 9am. Still waiting for the O2 eliminator to arrive as well. May be a little while to sort out the best way to fit them.
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Post  Classypete Thu 10 Jan 2013, 12:46 pm

Here are some pics of my delkevic down pipes, and 8" mini can,

CO2 Sensor Question. 022_zps85f8a493

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CO2 Sensor Question. 020_zpsdd5fb002

CO2 Sensor Question. DBB581C4-72BD-49BA-8866-1EA7D8D153F0-611-0000005327456FED

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Post  Classypete Thu 10 Jan 2013, 12:48 pm

And yes, I did have to cut the faring.

CO2 Sensor Question. 111A1C05-CE19-43EA-9909-E698B33821E7-611-0000005321E03EB3

CO2 Sensor Question. EF0560BB-5CD0-4DB0-9432-726BF9D88617-5254-0000049A723BD2AE

I am planning on cleaning it up some more....

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Post  barry_mcki Thu 10 Jan 2013, 4:11 pm

Seems the header people and the fairing manufacturers never use the same mule bike, I too had to provide a new "ventalation" hole when I fitted the Arrows on my '07 1250 that has factory lower plastic.

Has the new dash got a temp gauge ? I believe mine now runs a little warmer round town with the headers (even without any Cat). Be interesting to see if there is any difference.

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Post  Hammy Thu 10 Jan 2013, 8:35 pm

Must say. I quite like the Bandit in the Wedding Dress " White " livery. Very nice. My Delkevic BOX arrived today. So tomorrow morning the tools come out. Delkevic even supply you with a spring puller. I went to the trouble of ordering one. As well they supply a tube of exhaust silicon and a set of header gaskets. Top stuff.
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Post  owned Wed 30 Jan 2013, 7:28 pm

Yep I can confirm what Pete has said that the Delkevic headers have a nut for an O2 sensor, but the hole size is for the O2 sensor that fits the stock pipe. The PCV autotune O2 sensor has a much larger thread so you will need to hack the exsisting nut off and weld on a new nut before you fit the headers.

I've had my Delkevic headers and an 18" CF Delkevic silencer on my GSF 1250 for about 5 weeks now and the bike is running quite bad. Its taken me weeks to sort the fuel map out and I'm still not there.

@classypete. I really don't recommend you touch the airbox or do any mods to it before you fit a PCV, FI Tuner Pro or a TFI from Dale Walker as the Delvevic headers are so free flowing that you might struggle to get enough fuel in to get the correct mixture at higher RPM's and throttle settings. I'm using the FI Tuner Pro and have all the cells over 5000 RPM and above 60% throttle set to the max of 30, and its no where near enough fuel. The bike bogs down after 5000 RPM when you apply over 60% throttle. My options are to put the airbox lid back in place, as I cut it off compleatly and fitted a K&N filter, or to try and get even more fuel in.

At the moment I'm playing with trying to get the bike to stay in the richer mixture that it gives when the engine is cold, or for the first 30 seconds after you start the bike if its hot or cold. When my bike is running that richer cold start mixture it runs fine everywhere and there is no bogging down, but as soon as the bike warms up and the mixture leans out the bogging down starts.

I'll keep you posted to how I get on as there are not many with the Delkevic headers and I might me the first to attemp a full engine tune with them in place.

Rog.


Last edited by owned on Wed 30 Jan 2013, 7:34 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : spelling)
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Post  Classypete Thu 31 Jan 2013, 12:17 pm

Hmmm... Good luck.... It's always fun being first eh?!...lol

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Post  owned Thu 31 Jan 2013, 6:33 pm

Uummm, I think I just read that as its always expensive being first ha ha.

I did some more mods today and it’s a bit better, but still not great. I think the answer is called a PCV with autotune to be honest. I was going to do this first time around but didn’t, but I think I’m going to have to do it now.

The Delkevic is a 4 into 1, whereas all the other systems out there are 4 into 2 into 1. I’ve read that a 4 into 1 gives more power hi up and less torque than a 4, 2, 1, but I have a setup that is know to work on everyone else bike, but doesn’t on mine and the only difference is the headers.

Jury is still out.

Rog.
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Post  reddog Thu 31 Jan 2013, 10:51 pm

I've got a PC3 arrow headers etc and had no problems. As others have stated check your fuel pump as it sounds like it might not be working as well as it should. Still seems like a coincidence.
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Post  geekay007 Fri 01 Feb 2013, 12:57 pm

I think putting headers on before a decent fuel box is going about it arse backwards. No doubt the bikes' going to run like a bag of shite. Tfi box is the way to go if you're a tight arse like me, or go PCV if you don't mind spending money getting a dyno tune. Once it's sorted, you'll be more than happy with the results so it's worth the hassle IMO.

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Post  owned Fri 01 Feb 2013, 10:23 pm

Sorry should have made myself more clear, I am running with a fuel unit and installed it at the same time as the other mods and exhaust.

Here’s a run down of what’s been done to the bike.

08 GSF 1250 (blue ha ha)
Delkevic headers and 450mm CF silencer (no CAT, no O2 sensor)
Healtech FI Tuner Pro (a lot like a PC111)
K&N air filter with airbox lid completely cut off
Wire 23 cut to disable O2 senor
PAIRS left in place
Secondary butterflies left in place


All these mods were done at the same time about 5 weeks ago, and in the morning before I did the mods the bike was running perfectly. In the afternoon after all the mods the bike had the bogging down problem over 5000 RPM. I could be completely unlucky and had the fuel pump go faulty in the space of 3 hours, or the fuel filter block up whilst it was sitting there, but I think that’s too much of a coincidence. The bike has only done 5000 KM and has never been abused.

The other things I know are that the bike performs perfectly from a cold start. But after around 3 to 6 mins depending on how hot the day is the bike starts to bog down above 5000 RPM. So the rich mixture it’s getting when cold is making it run fine. If the fuel pump or filter were faulty I would expect it to not run well, even when cold. The other thing is that yesterday I put the stock air filter back in and it opened the higher RPM’s up a bit. All this tells me I’m not getting enough fuel above 5000 RPM and at throttle positions over 60%, or there is too much air, which is the same thing.

I have 6 maps for the GSF 1250 that were made on bikes that have mods that are very close to my setup. A couple of the maps come from a UK tuner who specialises in tuning the GSF 1250 and the only difference between the bike he made the dyno run on and mine is that I have the Delkevic 4 into 1 headers and the bike he dynoed had a 4 into 2 into 1. I have all the cells in the fuel map above 5000 RPM and above 50% throttle set to the maximum of +30 and its still nowhere near enough fuel. If I run 0 or – values in those cells then the bike stalls and coughs above 5000 RPM, so I’m guessing the A/F mix is way too lean for it to even run with smaller values.

The FI Tuner Pro is great, but can only go up to +30, so I think my next option is a PCV with autotune that can go up to +250 if I need it too. I could use the stock air filter and put the lid back on the airbox to really restrict the airflow, but this seems a crap way to get the bike to run well. If I can get all that air in and exhaust out then it makes sense to give it enough fuel to get the full power it can deliver. I’m thinking the Delkevic headers are really allowing a lot of exhaust gases to get out as if I run a map for an arrows or other 4 into 2 into 1, its nowhere near enough fuel to get the bike to run well.

I also thought that the wire 23 debate was settled. Someone found out it was a way to disable the O2 sensing circuit and used by Suzuki to make comparative tests during the bikes R&D stage.

I have thought very seriously about Dales FI unit, as there are so many happy people that use it, so I know it works. But the exhaust system I’m using is so new (maybe only 3 people with it in the whole world at this moment) that I’m not sure Dale would know what settings to provide me with. At least with an autotune O2 sensor I stand a chance of getting close (maybe).

By the way I live in a part of the world that has no dyno’s, so I can never take this bike to get tuned. If I could it’s the first thing I would have done.

Rog.
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Post  geekay007 Sat 02 Feb 2013, 12:13 am

Ok I see. I have the TFi box and the oxygen sensor has a resistor in place, so I'm not sure if cutting the wire will have the same effect. As far as 4-2-1 vs 4-1 goes, my gut feeling is that it shouldn't produce the fueling issues you described ie. bogging down after 5000 rpm. If anything it should go better up top slightly. Sorry I just noticed you said that your secondaries are in place!? My advice from Dale Walker was that you must remove these if you completely open up the airbox. It's easy enough to do. go to holeshot.com and look at the photos he's got there. Basically you'll need to:

* get a no.0 (number zero) Phillips screwdriver and a microbutane torch.
* remove the throttle bodies from the RHS, leave the throttle cables in place, whack an old towel on the frame and rest the throttle bodies on them. You will have to remove some cables and breather hoses before they are removed.
* carefully heat each screw for 5 seconds with the microbutane torch to crack the threadlocking agent, do one secondary valve at a time, 2 screws per valve then they'll easily come off with the screwdriver. Once removed make sure the retaining secondary valve control rod is in the closed position.
* Whack it back together and see how it goes.


Here are the photos and instructions. If you can get the workshop manual, it will be even clearer. PM me and I can email you a pdf if you can't find it online. I got mine off a torrent site.

http://holeshot.com/Bandit_1250/1250tfi_install_st2.html


Once you get her sorted, she'll be like a different bike altogether. Good luck

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Post  Hammy Sat 02 Feb 2013, 9:09 am

Ditto what Geekay said.
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Post  Reardo Sat 02 Feb 2013, 11:53 am

I have A very rider friendly 130hp/125nm and my tuner/PCIII has up to minus -10 in the mid range and high as +18 in the higher RPM.

Are you sure you don't have too much fuel?

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*Open airbox lid with K&N.
*Removed Secondaries.
*HealTech Gear Indicator w/tre "Advanced Timing Retard Eliminator is needed".
*Balanced TB's. My TPS was fine, but you should check yours.
*Arrow race headers with Yoshimura TRS.
*PC3 with the supplied map and these mod got 123hp with 115nm of torque.
*Neville Lush Racing custom tune = 130hp with 125nm at the Tyre (Standard 98hp/108nm).
My youtube channel (clickhere)
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Post  Dekenai Sat 02 Feb 2013, 12:17 pm

Sounds a lot like the fuel screen starvation issue. Looking at Barry's PCV map and mine (https://nswbandits.forumotion.net/t3027p15-another-power-commander-question) I see a maximum increase of +20% @ 7500 rpm @ 80% throttle, so I wud agree with Reardo's comment that you should be in the same ballpark.

Of course, if you have the starvation issue then fuel flow will be limited by that so it wont matter what the TFI, PCV or Healtech FI settings are. AFAIK the main difference is that some units don't allow for subtraction of fuel (TFI) and in the case of my bike it was necessary to remove fuel at the low end to get the throttle response right.
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Post  owned Sat 02 Feb 2013, 12:48 pm

Thanks for the replies guys.

Yep, I'm starting to agree with you that the problem is somewhere else now. I looked at Barrys map and I have a map that is almost identical and we run very similar setups, so it has to be something else.

I'm on hoilday untill the end of Feb, but when I get back I'll check the fuel pump filter and remove the secondary butterfiles. I can also put in a 330 ohm resistor which is what the O2 eliminator plug you buy is and see how she goes. But if all is well after the fuel filter clean and secondarys removed I'll leave the rest alone.

Many thanks again and I'll post back with my findings in late Feb.

Rog.
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