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Symtec heated grip controller for metric bikes

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Symtec heated grip controller for metric bikes Empty Symtec heated grip controller for metric bikes

Post  madmax Wed 17 Oct 2012, 5:00 pm

This is a review of the controller only.

As some of you may be aware my old style Oxford controller lost its knob & shaft rendering it useless.

I decided it was an opportunity to get a better looking controller.
I bought from Lockitt.com this controller
Symtec heated grip controller for metric bikes Heatdemon-metric-control-black-1-700w_350x300

http://lockitt.com/Lockitt/product/ELCLGP/EHST217.html

FIRSTLY Do Not Buy this Controller if you don't like the idea of drilling into your handlebars.

After cutting off the old Oxford Controller I was left with 3 wires. This is perfect, one is negative, one is power (+) and also goes to one wire on the grips, the other on goes to the other wire on the grips.

The new controller has 4 wires but you don't use the green one.
Lockitt have a wiring diagram in PDF form on their website http://lockitt.com/PDF/symtec%20grips%20controller%201.pdf
Its then just a matter of working out which wire corresponds to which as the colours are different from Oxford vs Symtec
For me the white Symtec wire connects to the red Oxford power wire.
The yellow Symtec wire connects to the white Oxford wire.
The black connects to black.

Mounting the controller is just a matter of removing the perch clamp on the side you wish the controller to be on. I chose the clutch perch. Before doing this put a small mark with a texta on the handlebar to indicate the position (rotation) the perch was in. They supply a plastic template to guide in marking where the hole goes for the wires, I ended up using one of the supplied spacers as a guide instead. I found it easier.
After marking where you are going to drill use a centre punch to prevent the drill from slipping and start with a small drill bit working up to a 6.5mm.
For Oxford Grip heaters or any grip heater that is external you need to drill another hole for the wires to exit the bar. I chose to drill a hole in the underside of the bar inside the left switch mount. This way the wires run the same way as the factory ones do.
What you don't see in this picture is that I removed it all and covered
the wires with heatshrink first before threading it through the bar, but
you get the general idea.
Symtec heated grip controller for metric bikes IMAG0554
I ended up covering it with heatshrink because one of the wires got chaffed passing through the holes and was earthing to the handlebar. I also deburred the holes on the outside with a dremel

Once this is all done its just a matter of refitting everything taking care not to squash any wires when tightening up the perch. The wires must go cleanly into the drilled holes.

Then reconnect the wiring in which ever method you prefer. I always solder and heatshrink my joins.

Symtec heated grip controller for metric bikes IMAG0556

Using the controller.


The Controller will provide 4 levels of heat to the heaters inside of the handlebar. A thermistor senses the temperature and provides a feedback to the Controller so a precise level of heat is supplied to the grips.
Press the button on the Controller once and the Yellow light or LED shows that the lowest level of heat is selected. Press the button a second time and the Orange light or LED will indicate the next higher level of heat has been selected. Pressing the button a third or fourth time will select higher levels of heat for colder conditions. Pressing the button a fifth time will shut off all of the lights and the power.
Holding the button down for 3 seconds will lower the intensity of the LED’s for night operation. Holding it down again
for 3 seconds will adjust the LED’s for daytime use.

Disadvantages

I'm glad I chose the left perch to mount it on. Being on the inside of the perch it would be impossible to hold the throttle and operate it at the same time. You still need to let go to operate it.
The controller doesn't remember what setting it was on when you next turn on the bike.
Drilling holes into the handlebar means you can't rotate that lever around the bar anymore.

Overall
They work, and they are neater then anything else I seen off the shelf, so to speak. I'm yet to go for a ride to see how the function and ease of use in the real world, that will probably happen tonight.
madmax
madmax

Posts : 4307
Join date : 2011-10-19
Age : 61
Location : Carrum Downs, Victoria

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Post  straff1250 Wed 17 Oct 2012, 7:04 pm

That's a great looking switch. How long have you had the Oxford grips for?
I have a set on my bike and have had no problems yet? Been on for 2 years.
The only problem I find with my controller is not being able to feel the buttons with gloves on. Nobs too small. Keen to hear how it all goes just in case mine croaks it.
straff1250
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Post  madmax Wed 17 Oct 2012, 7:29 pm

My Oxford grips are not 12 months old. The controller didn't fail just its knob fell/taken off and I couldn't replace it. But this was the old style controller with 1 big knob in the centre. It was much easier to use.
madmax
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Post  straff1250 Wed 17 Oct 2012, 7:32 pm

I know the one, I had that one on my previous bike and liked it a heap better than the controller I have now.
straff1250
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Post  madmax Wed 17 Oct 2012, 8:39 pm

straff1250 wrote:I know the one, I had that one on my previous bike and liked it a heap better than the controller I have now.

I think most people did.

Anyway I rode to work tonight and just had the grips on the second setting. Didn't really need them just wanted to try them out. On the way home in the morning I'll try them out on full.

A liitle more awkward to get to, but I'll get use to it.

Main thing is it works. Very Happy

And BTW the switch assembly is cast alloy not plastic Smile
madmax
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