Jack Up Dog Bones

Has anyone fitted these or got an opinion on any good or bad reasons for using them.

if you lift the rear to high, and i mean alot,you will lose high speed stability, but if you lift it around 25mm,you affectively shorten the wheel base,which quickens the stearing,and the height also allows for more lean angle on corners

Ive played around a lot with them .I'll report tonight .

Hi mate i just put some gsxr1000 k3 dog bones on my 1250 and they raised the rear 35mm, i already had them sitting in my garage so thought i would try them and they are deff staying on the bike now. My bike corners great no probs with hispeed stability

woodywoodpecker wrote:Hi mate i just put some gsxr1000 k3 dog bones on my 1250 and they raised the rear 35mm, i already had them sitting in my garage so thought i would try them and they are deff staying on the bike now. My bike corners great no probs with hispeed stability

Who are You ??

Hammy wrote:

woodywoodpecker wrote:Hi mate i just put some gsxr1000 k3 dog bones on my 1250 and they raised the rear 35mm, i already had them sitting in my garage so thought i would try them and they are deff staying on the bike now. My bike corners great no probs with hispeed stability

Who are You ??

Yes. Would you trust a stranger with a prosthetic pecker?

This is what i found .
I welded up one end of the standard dog bones and re drilled the hole 7mm CLOSER TOGETHER .This lifted the rear 35 mm..S0 1mm=5mm lift .
The bike turned great .BUT Side stand now too short without worrying about it .Straight line ride was twitchy but the worst thing my legs were
too short for reverse gear (i'm not short)It was only a matter of time till i dropped it so i had to try again .
Re-welded same end of dog bones and re-drilled (12mm) 4mm closer than standard 4mm = 20mm lift .
Happy medium (for me ) still had to attach 40mm block to sidestand to get angle right .I used a piece of nylon
Is it worth doing ,probably not .A bandit is never going to handle like a sports bike , but i'm happy .
Personally 15-20mm lift is all i'd go .Thats the holes 3-4mm CLOSER together .
I think they were TIG welded .I didnt do them myself .

personally for me,i think so that when the bike is on the centre stand,the wheel just misses touching the ground so it can still be used` which on the gen 2 is 25mm raise

Forgot about that .Your right ,a 30mm lift makes the tyre refitting a with centre stand .

Hi All,

I remember Buelllord fitted a 20mm lift kit to the rear of his and he was most happy with it, a great compromise.

cheers,
Nathan

My bikes got a Hyabusa shock, not sure if the dogbone has been changed but it seems to sit a bit higher at the back. I get a bit of headshake If I take both hands of the bars. But it handles well. I wouldnt mind her a little lower though.

NZspokes wrote:My bikes got a Hyabusa shock, not sure if the dogbone has been changed but it seems to sit a bit higher at the back. I get a bit of headshake If I take both hands of the bars. But it handles well. I wouldnt mind her a little lower though.

You could try fitting roller headstem bearings & loading them up a bit more / did that on a yammy I had once & that helped ( assuming your tires & headstem bearings are A OK now & not the cause )

with the hayabusa shock,and on the centre stand,you should have about a maxium of 5mm from tyre to ground,if its alot bigger gap,then the links have been changed, and also they`d be an after market link which wouldn`t have the factory markings on them

NZspokes wrote:My bikes got a Hyabusa shock, not sure if the dogbone has been changed but it seems to sit a bit higher at the back. I get a bit of headshake If I take both hands of the bars. But it handles well. I wouldnt mind her a little lower though.

I don't know if you have a top-box, but that can cause the problem you describe.

mtbeerwah wrote:with the hayabusa shock,and on the centre stand,you should have about a maxium of 5mm from tyre to ground,if its alot bigger gap,then the links have been changed, and also they`d be an after market link which wouldn`t have the factory markings on them

I can just get my fingers under the tyre.

ohmyfj55 wrote:Hi All,

I remember Buelllord fitted a 20mm lift kit to the rear of his and he was most happy with it, a great compromise.

cheers,
Nathan

Nathan you are quite right, I lifted mine 20mm and I often wonder why the factory didn't do this from the start. It now steers like a GSX-R and you still have about 3mm clearance under the rear tyre when it is on the centre stand.

I have now fitted an Ohlins rear shock as the original started to loose its damping around 40,000kms and what a difference it makes. I always though that the rear shock was quite good and in some respects it is. The Ohlins has made me realise just how harsh the stock stock was, WA roads are not exactly smooth but the Ohlins has made a world of difference to the ride quality.



buelllord

Thanks for that Buelllord,

Will look into the Ohlins option. Just had to readjust the settings on the front forks, as well as soften the shock and back off the rear spring. Had a ton of rain up here in Nth Qld and a lot of the local roads are badly rutted.

Have you changed your fork oil by now with that 40,000klms? Wondering if at 14,500 it may need doing as it is just over four years old.

Just about ready to go the braided lines and new pads, from memory you fitted the EBC HH's yeah? Just starting to loose feel on the front brake. How's that TL going?

Nat

HI Nat,
I put braided lines and EBC HH pads on my K4. Stops well as expected, but the rear squeals loudly. I have taken the pads out twice now and tried a couple of fixes, but the noise persists. I have read that the HH pads in the rear are notorious for squealing, and that GSXR1000 rear pads have a sintered compound like the HH pads, but don't squeal.


Tony.

Hi Tony,

Thanks for the hint regarding the gsxr pads, will look into it. Where did you end up getting your braided lines from? When I first priced them from HEL lines in Brisbane it was about $500, though I see someone else mentioned around $125 from the U.K.

Glad to see the Bandit forum expanding with new members.

Thanks again,
Nat

i`ve got 01-02 gix pads in my front(gen 2 bandit,these won`t fit gen 2.5 or gen3 model) and they are much better than the bandit pad.same shape,different compound. as long as its the same calliper as yours that just so happens to match a more high performance bike.(you will have to research this) check the part No: against the bandit,if different,should have a different compound.

my 03 matches early busa,gix 1000 and sv1000,and all have different compound

ohmyfj55 wrote:Thanks for that Buelllord,

Will look into the Ohlins option. Just had to readjust the settings on the front forks, as well as soften the shock and back off the rear spring. Had a ton of rain up here in Nth Qld and a lot of the local roads are badly rutted.

Have you changed your fork oil by now with that 40,000klms? Wondering if at 14,500 it may need doing as it is just over four years old.

Just about ready to go the braided lines and new pads, from memory you fitted the EBC HH's yeah? Just starting to loose feel on the front brake. How's that TL going?

Nat

Hi mate,

Just changed changed my fork oil for the second time now the bike is at 50,000kms. I used 10wt Silkolene 140mm from the the top and it really does make a difference.

I fitted braided lines to mine and in all honesty, I reckon it was a very small gain for a lot of effort. The EBC HH's on the other hand made a heap of difference.

It's actually a 2007 SV1000 which also highly modified.



buelllord