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surging and coolant overflow

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dhula
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Post  herzog Wed 06 Jun 2012, 6:31 pm

For those of you want to read, I would be grateful for your feedback.

I have a brand new 2011 Bandit 1255 and have installed a radiator guard and a Yoshi slip on.
Two things have been happening.

Firstly the bike is not idling smoothly and chugs a bit at low speed but with more than 1500 rpm. The dealer blames this on the Yoshi and says I need to remap. As far as I know this has never been the case for slip ons. I showed it to a mechanic friend of mine and he said it was not the slip on. he works with performance parts and is super qualified so I trust him. The dealer thinks I should put the original muffler on to solve the problem. I suggested he check the fuel delivery system.

Secondly, I was riding home after work a few weeks ago and the fan only came on about two minutes from home. When I parked the bike, a lot of coolant came out of the overflows. The dealer blames this on the mesh radiator guard and says I should remove it.

This is the second time I have had such bad luck with a brand new suzuki. I had a gsx1400 that I sold back to the dealer because it was surging.

I know these issues have been discussed before but I'd appreciate some fresh feedback. I was hoping to write the opposite to this by letting you all know what happened and how the dealer fixed it. Now it seems the dealer believes these add ons have affected the bike.
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Post  gus Wed 06 Jun 2012, 6:43 pm

Well putting the standard pipe back on is easy so i would .Its a good starting point though i doubt it will fix the problem .At least it will rule it out .
What brand of guard ?
Mine had a terrible on-off throttle from new , until Holdenman tuned it out in 5 mins .
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Post  Ewok1958 Wed 06 Jun 2012, 7:02 pm

The radiator guard would have to be severely blocking the radiator airflow to cause overheating, especially at this time of the year (I could ride around Canberra with the radiator fully blocked off and it would have zero effect) - never heard of that happening with any of the common guards - even people fitting cheaper ones don't seem to have trouble. Mine is a Radguard and even in 35+c heat it doesn't make the fan come on early. What brand is your radiator guard?

My Yoshi can has never caused a problem, it idles exactly the same as it did before, fuels the same and feels the same (sounds better though Very Happy ) - Yoshi and Suzuki are race partners, and I doubt the can is causing any issues.

But both items are simple to remove and restore to standard condition. Do that and see if there is any change - then get the dealer to fix the problem if it still exists. The fueling is probably unbalanced throttle bodies and they should be qualified to fix that - it is just the modern day equivalent of synchronising the carbies. If they can't balance throttle bodies they'll never be able to properly service any modern bike. If the dealer can't it when it is standard, find another (competent) dealer.
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Post  2wheelsagain Wed 06 Jun 2012, 7:26 pm

First thing. Find a new dealer!
This bloke/business has my alarm bells ringing.
But for the sake of the argument put the original stuff back on.
When there is no change take it to them and demand the throttle bodies be synced and balanced.
We did have a guy on here with an overheating B1250 that he sold back to the dealer and I don't think we got to the bottom of the issue. A super lean condition will run an engine hot and give you flaky fueling and once again we're back to TB balance & sync for starters.

Keep us posted and don't be afraid of naming & shaming the establishment.
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Post  herzog Wed 06 Jun 2012, 7:31 pm

Thanks for the encouraging replies. As some of you might know, I am from SA but live in Hong Kong.
I've asked the dealer to check the fuel delivery system. If that doesn't work, I'll get an independent to do it as there is only one S dealer here.
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Post  dhula Wed 06 Jun 2012, 7:46 pm

First, find a suzuki dealer that knows his shitz. Get him to hook up his yoshie box and set the ECU back to factory specs. Don't care if anyone tells you it has never been touched, start from a known point.
Next, hook up SDS and pull any and all DTC from the ECU, if there are any that need fixin, fix em, again, starting from a known point. You can buy the HT OBD to do this yourself if you wanted to
Next, either you do this or have the dealer set your TPS and sync the TB's for you.
Next, remove air bubbles from your cooling system or get the dealer to do it for you.
and lastly, there should be no reason to remove the radguard or zorst as the bike should cope with both without mods unless it is a piece of shitz and needs special attention cause it's fucked up big time

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Post  Kaupy1962 Wed 06 Jun 2012, 11:09 pm

What he said and then some. When I first got mine the only mod was a yoshi slip-on. It surged like a bastard at 60kph any gear. After sync-ing the TBs it was perfect becuase the left outer cylinder was running far too lean. That also contributed to the vomiting of coolant on occasion. If I keep the coolant level 10mm below the recommended mark there's no problem.
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Post  herzog Thu 07 Jun 2012, 11:46 am

Many thanks for the thoughtful replies.
I will ask the dealer to address these issues. If not, I will get an independent assessment and send the dealer the bill. If not I'll sue him the small claims tribunal. It's such a pity... such a waste of time.
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Post  Re-Cycled Thu 07 Jun 2012, 8:28 pm

For those who came in late: always listen to Dhula, he knows his stuff and has common sense to boot.

Just my humble recommendation. Smile
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Post  herzog Sun 24 Jun 2012, 11:17 am

Thanks to everyone for their input.
I got the bike back more than a week ago and the ride from the dealer was a lot smoother. I have not had a chance to give the bike a thorough test ride yet as it has been raining a lot here. I'll post a report afterwards.
The dealer had the bike for about ten days and admitted the problem existed with the original muffler. Finally, they agreed to balance the throttle bodies. The salesman said there was a "little problem". It seems the adjustment to the little problem has made all the difference. The other interesting thing is the salesman said the bike is not completely run at 1,600 k's. He said the bike should run more smoothly at 4,500+ k's. 4,500 of poor performance in our traffic is no fun at all!
Anyway, take care and will be in touch in a couple of weeks.
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Post  herzog Wed 27 Jun 2012, 8:53 am

well good news. the bike seems to be running a lot better. despite starting off in dry conditions, it rained both times I was out. I had time to get on the highway for a while... so it all seems OK> She starts a bit lumpy, but that is now settling down much faster.
I've left the radiator guard on and there's no coolant overflow.
Crossing my fingers.
Thanks for all the input.
Take good care.
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Post  2wheelsagain Wed 27 Jun 2012, 9:04 am

Thats some good news.

As for running in ....................... Laughing

Mine continued to improve to about 20,000k so at your km the engine and gearbox are still pretty tight.
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Post  herzog Sat 22 Sep 2012, 11:56 am

The dealer balanced the throttles and everything is fine now.
They set the idle at around 1100 rpm. Is that OK?
Sorry for not replying earlier
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Post  paul Sat 22 Sep 2012, 12:45 pm

herzog wrote:The dealer balanced the throttles and everything is fine now.
They set the idle at around 1100 rpm. Is that OK?
Sorry for not replying earlier





Yep normal.................& as 2WA said they do continue to improve as well Very Happy
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Post  gringo Sat 22 Sep 2012, 12:53 pm

I bought a bandit as our riding instructor has exactly the some one, and I was impressed with it, I did the slow speed exercises and over the course of an hour it started to overflow coolant, a fair bit of stopping and starting of the bike, which cuts the fan, so this may be the culprit, it was also very hot that day.

Also his bike had well over 100,00 klms and the throttle was so smooth! It still went like stink and he had done nothing major to it in that time. They are amazing bike which only gets better with age.
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