Disappointed wth HIDs

I received my HID kit yesterday. Of course I had to install them straight away .

The kit I got is meant to be plug and play, it is also tagged as being for a GSX1250FA
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160775028974&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

With no relays needed I started with the low beam. The kit plugs directly into the headlight bulb inside the cover cap however they tell you to drill a 25mm hole into the cap to facilitate their rubber grommet.
If you do that to the headlight cap there would be no plug on the cap left. I ended up cutting a small hole into it and feeding the wires through it. (I want to be able to switch back to Halogen if these were to ever fail)
I cable tied the ballast to the framework inside the cowling. on one side of the headlight assembly.

Well I thought that was fairly simple.

Time for the High beam!
Now the fun begins, The high beam cover cap is larger enough to have the rubber grommet and the original wiring plug. So I drilled a 25 mm hole adjacent to the plug. Around this time a mate of mine turns up and between the two of use we could not figure out why the HB3 HID globe refused to go into place. We can refit the halogen one easily but the HID one just will not go in.
We put both globes on the bench and compared them. The bases were the same, in thickness and in the three locking tabs. We tried again we could get the HID globe in flush but it wouldn't turn.
With not a lot of room to see what the problem was I decided to remove the headlight assembly off the bike. I know what your thinking because I was thinking the same, a lot of bloody work just to change a bulb!
Eventually we worked out how to get it all disassembled, and laid the headlight down on some soft rags so we could get a better look. The old halogen globe would go in and recessed to allow for it to turn and lock into place. The HID one would only go in flush. Having another closer look at the two bulbs I noticed the the HID one has a thick rubber 'O' ring on it, where as the old one the 'O' ring is thin. We swapped the 'O' rings over and in she went I mounted the High beam Ballast the same as the other one, but on the other side.

No for the disappointing part.

Putting the bike back together didn't take us too long, as we now knew what we had to do. However it was well and truly dark by the time we'd finished. Now to see how good these HID are.

It appears, from a standing point of view they are not a lot different to the Phillips Crystal Vision (halogen) one I pulled out. The high beam is and always has been quite good. The low beam has always been the problem and it looks as though it still is I don't know what it is, maybe the design of the reflector.

Thoughts?

Strange. I can't remember exactly what I had for the 650 but at night time it was like riding with ILS turned on. Everything was so bright and visible.

Unfortunately the light didn't last that long, a matter of months and died at a most inappropriate time. It's darker than usual due to a big friggin thunderstorm and the light cuts out on the way home, not impressed.

Still thinking about getting HIDs again, as I mentioned, they were brilliant at night.

I fitted HID's to both the Bandit and wife's Honda Shadow more than 12 months ago. The results were nothing short of sensational and continue to impress me.

Prior to fitting the HID's to the Bandit I did some voltage measurements. With the ignition on but the engine not running I measures 12.7 volts at the battery and 10.9 volts at the original headlight bulb. The 1.8 volt difference was due to the vermicelli sized wiring and the switches. The decision was made to add some relays to provide full battery voltage at the headlight terminals.

I fitted the HID's plus relays at the same time so do not have results for each individual task however, the voltage now supplying the HID ballasts measures exactly the same as battery volts.

I consider this is an important point and can be simply proven with a few voltage measurements

I guess I am lucky that unlike some of you, I don't have to, or want to, ride in the dark hours. But I do read these threads and think, is there an easier solution. What about a spot light ? Does the Bandit pump out enough " juice " to power one ?. A relay. A switch. Even connected up to the high beam switch. Just a thought.

BanditDave wrote:I fitted HID's to both the Bandit and wife's Honda Shadow more than 12 months ago. The results were nothing short of sensational and continue to impress me.

Prior to fitting the HID's to the Bandit I did some voltage measurements. With the ignition on but the engine not running I measures 12.7 volts at the battery and 10.9 volts at the original headlight bulb. The 1.8 volt difference was due to the vermicelli sized wiring and the switches. The decision was made to add some relays to provide full battery voltage at the headlight terminals.

I fitted the HID's plus relays at the same time so do not have results for each individual task however, the voltage now supplying the HID ballasts measures exactly the same as battery volts.

I consider this is an important point and can be simply proven with a few voltage measurements

Thanks Dave, something for me to consider and definitely worth looking into. If I get a chance I will take some readings this weekend.

I've got no idea about the reflector on the GSXFA, but the GSF1250 isn't the best in the world, but the HID's helped a shit load. I didn't even bother with relays etc.

Hammy wrote:I guess I am lucky that unlike some of you, I don't have to, or want to, ride in the dark hours. But I do read these threads and think, is there an easier solution. What about a spot light ? Does the Bandit pump out enough " juice " to power one ?. A relay. A switch. Even connected up to the high beam switch. Just a thought.

I run LED spot lights on mine and they over power the light output from the headlight

here you can see them mounted on side of radiator

holdenman wrote:

I run LED spot lights on mine and they over power the light output from the headlight

here you can see them mounted on side of radiator

Now thats what I'm talkin' about. Good one !

My Vstrom lights are better than the lights on my Vitara
Most I'll do is put relays on em so they get full smoke from the battery.

madmax wrote:

BanditDave wrote:I fitted HID's to both the Bandit and wife's Honda Shadow more than 12 months ago. The results were nothing short of sensational and continue to impress me.

Prior to fitting the HID's to the Bandit I did some voltage measurements. With the ignition on but the engine not running I measures 12.7 volts at the battery and 10.9 volts at the original headlight bulb. The 1.8 volt difference was due to the vermicelli sized wiring and the switches. The decision was made to add some relays to provide full battery voltage at the headlight terminals.

I fitted the HID's plus relays at the same time so do not have results for each individual task however, the voltage now supplying the HID ballasts measures exactly the same as battery volts.

I consider this is an important point and can be simply proven with a few voltage measurements

Thanks Dave, something for me to consider and definitely worth looking into. If I get a chance I will take some readings this weekend.

Measured the voltage at the headlight plug with the engine not running @12.6 volts so I don't think relays will help. Took it for a ride a couple of nights ago and it is better than the halogens but not as good as I expected :-( maybe I should have got the 55w set

My HID's are 35watt 6000K and perform extremely well.

Just a couple of thoughts

1. Did you measure the headlight voltage across both pins of the headlight bulb, not from the positive to chassis?

2. Are your HID bulbs spaced correctly in the reflector or do they require some packing to put the element in the correct position?

BanditDave wrote:My HID's are 35watt 6000K and perform extremely well.

Just a couple of thoughts

1. Did you measure the headlight voltage across both pins of the headlight bulb, not from the positive to chassis?

2. Are your HID bulbs spaced correctly in the reflector or do they require some packing to put the element in the correct position?

1. Yes I measured positive to chassis, so I will do it again.

2. How would I know? They look like they are right.

I consider the HID element needs to be in exactly the same position relative to the reflector.
You probably need to do this in subdued light, in my case inside the garage with the door shut.
Remove the retaining clip from the bulb and pull the bulb back a few millimetres observing the beam pattern.
If it pattern improves then some sort of shim is required in front of the mounting base.