Pair Removal made easy .

Scince this question keeps comming up, i thought i'd condense it all so its not all over the place .Nothing new but might save a lot of reading.
This is how i did it ,someone else might have a better way ,or you could buy the system of the net .Your choice .
Trace around the original pair system top onto 4mm alloy and make 2 of these .


Smear the contact section with a gasket type goo . REMOVE THE 2 REED VALVES .Those strange looking square thing with the 4 screws in .
With the right size meatal threads screw the two new alloy plates into place.


Scince you have removed the Solenoid ,the pipes and original pair top ,reed valves you will need a resistor to stop the Fi light comming on
I used a ----10 w 330ohm xo 5%---alloy cased resistor .You may have to order it $12-$15
Find somewhere to mount it


Extend the two wire that went to the selonoid to the resistor .(in pic pair tops are removed for the pic )


Put a bung in the hose that comes from the air box ,I cut the hose off near the airbox .
Finitow .

since I I am trying to keep the semblance of warranty and compliance, I had a looksy in the airbox.
the hole from the inside is about 6mm. hmmm I says to myself.

a bit of an old power cord and 1 layer of heatshrink to make it a tight fit.
Test ride - yep. works fine but it is ugly and heatshrink doesnt grab like rubber - could also vibrate out.
So off down to hardware store, grabbed a cheap short occy rubber strap (the middle section is about 6mm and the ends are fatter).
introduce the stanley knife.
cut a section about 12mm out of the middle of the strap.
make a "T" piece by sectioning the middle of the "T" to about 6mm, top section any size up to about 15mm wide.
round shape the middle of the "T" to fit very tight.
push it in from the inside of the airbox. you now have a blocked pair hose that can be undone in a couple of minutes
and all the rest of the kit is there if you need it. the top of the "T" is for your pliers can grab it out if you need to.

Because the pair hose connection is tucked up under the front right of the air-box, it isnt seen by casual inspection and
doesnt interfere with airflow etc. No cut hoses or loose ones - no obvious modification.
Ride testing - no warning lights, no over-run noises (and I tried hard on deceleration).

easy, simple and you could probaly do it cheaper than paying $5 for a strap. Anything rubber that fits would do.

A lot of people use small bar/rode/bolt/dowel/rubber bung in the place of the joiner under the tank, with standard hose clamps.
So look standard. =