Pair system /

If i've blocked the pair hose at the joint as most people do. Why do i still have the hose in place .If i was to block the hose further forward at the
start, and at the other end of it ,couldnt i remove the rest of the hose in the middle ?And no i'm not interested in buying anything,

I guess so !

I hope so ,I just cut the hoses .The hose from the front is now 1in long and plugged .The air box end the same .

Basically when you fit a Pairs removal kit you're just taking away the hoses!

There is no reason you can't remove the hose if you block it at the PAIR valve AND at the airbox with something suitable

Like a piece of bark ?

so long as it is reused from the fuel tank and painted black first

In" THEARY " if you were to remove all the pair hoses and block all the ends , but leave the electrical part connected would the F i
light give you trouble ? Would it be O.K. to run like this ?

gus wrote:In" THEARY " if you were to remove all the pair hoses and block all the ends , but leave the electrical part connected would the F i
light give you trouble ? Would it be O.K. to run like this ?

Yes mate. I got sick of looking at the FI light after removing the pair. so i zip tied the solenoid under the tank, too i got a resistor.

So if you keep the solenoid in place all is good ? As in it doesnt need pressure to work ?

gus wrote:So if you keep the solenoid in place all is good ?

Yes.

gus wrote:As in it doesnt need pressure to work ?

No, it don't need anythink. just the wire.

Easier to just put the right resistor in place and tape it up

I have a TPO kit that needs fitting. I have decided to do it at the same time as I attempt my secondaryectomy. Just think of all that weight saving. Should give me a few extra Hp

Yeah. Best to do it all at once Mpottsy.

Do the Pair first as the gasket glue will take some time to cure, which will be about the same time as it takes you to get the damn butterflies out. As a quick heads up just slide the throttle bodies out with injector loom attached and attack the secondaries with a proper #0 JIS driver after heating each screw. I used a Ryobi heat gun, you could see and smell the threadlock burning JIS driver is the key though, I had to wait two weeks for a set to turn up after having to drill one of the screws out due to trying to use jewellers screw drivers

I'll check the resistor I have that replaces the solenoid tonight and try to upload a pic.

A quick google told me 22-25Ohm 10W resistor, but I'll double check for you lot.

Why are we using a gasket glue ?

If you have the TPO block offs they require it for sealing against the valve cover.

Metrick metals block offs allow you to retain the PAIR reed valves so you don't need it.

Tidy

gus wrote:Why are we using a gasket glue ?

To seal the deal
To stop air getting sucked under the plates. If u don't, will get more of the POP POP POP

I got my JIS drivers today soon my SILVER (the fastest Bandits ) baby will be without her tonsils

@Reardo: Good luck mate. Mine took 3 weeks from start to finish

As stated in another thread just pull the TB's to the side with the throttle cables still attached and pull them out with addition of heat. You should not need to use excessive force to crack the screws. So far mine sounds better and revs quicker.

I think your better removing them completely .You get better pressure on the screw heads working on the work bench .Just my opinion though .

Why are we getting rid of the solenoid and replacing it with a resister if they both keep the Fi light happy .It not as if its LARGE ?

You lose 100g as well

Power to weight ratio yeah!

Reardo wrote:

gus wrote:Why are we using a gasket glue ?

To seal the deal
To stop air getting sucked under the plates. If u don't, will get more of the POP POP POP

I got my JIS drivers today soon my SILVER (the fastest Bandits ) baby will be without her tonsils

Theres a man that knows his Bandits.

Hi all,

I've been reading items posted re 'Pairs', blocking off various pipes & drilling holes in the air-box.....

Now I know that this all makes a great deal of sense to most of you but I don't really have a clue what you are talking about. So, would someone be kind enough to provide me with 'the beginner's guide to Pairs....'. that may be aplicable to me & my 2010 1250 FA.

On a completely different subject: from the moment I bought the bike, the gear changes going up from first to third, have been VERY clunky, whilst four, five & six are as sweet as can be.

I advised Peter Stevens at my first service - their response was to take out the plates soak them in oil & told me to just get some kilometres up as warranty does not cover the clutch!!!.

I took the bike back for its 6,000km service last Wed ready for my trip up to Broken Hill & back, once again I pointed out the dreaded KLUNK only to be told that its a characteristic of the bike.

Now, whilst I have not read one review that mentions this problem, it's not to say it doesn't exist - but I think it's just my dealer trying to get rid of me.

Anyone else have a similar problem?

Cheers,
Silver

My gearbox is very notchy. There is a substantial klunk into first and certainly not slick through 2, 3 and 4. Somtimes it has even refused to change up underhard acceleration and I 've had to back it off and have a second go. There is certainly a few of the 6 speed boxes with this less than slick operation if other posts and comments on the i/net are anything to go by. Don't know if they're all bad though. I can live with mine as it is but it can be a bit annoying when it doesn't want to change up.

Thanks Ewok,

Whilst not a huge problem I just find it a tad disappointing in this day & age. However, I guess the amount of torque/HP being delivered has some impact on the system.

Silver