Oxford Heated Grips

First topic message reminder :

Has these fitted a couple of weeks ago - a fabbo item and recommended. u can see them if you look closely - and if u look even closer at the names on the places over the street u will see that this particular bike was the highest bandit in australia
[img][/img]

well i went for a brief spin this afternoon and mine are stuck on high even though they are turned off. no lights or anything.........

Another reason to fuse every circuit, not only saves your wiring (and possibly even your bike) if there is a short, if something goes wrong with control boxes or relays you just remove the fuse and its powered off.

The Eastern Beaver fuse box is ideal for this:

I had oxford heated grips on an old bike of mine and suddenly the controller decided not to work ... I think oxford still have problems with their gear to this date

potatomasher wrote:well i went for a brief spin this afternoon and mine are stuck on high even though they are turned off. no lights or anything.........

Yeah controller has shit itself. Had same problem

how long is the warranty does anyone know? i didnt even turn them on -they have turned themselves on

I think its 12 months.

Ladies and gents, now that the summer has gone, Im thinking about fitting a heated grip to keep my supple girlie office hands nice n toasty on the way to work. Any follow up reports on the oxford controllers - good, bad or otherwise?

I have a set with the old style controller. I managed to pick them up cheap on ebay from the UK. They were new, I guess old stock.

Reading around online this controller is more reliable then the new one.

There are many complaints about the new style controller.


Difficult to operate with gloves on.
Auto off when battery voltage drops, causes them to turn off even at idle.
Controllers failing.

These are just some I can recall when I was looking into it late last year.

The grips themselves I don't think have changed, and they work extremely well

I have the old style as well,its 5yr old and never had an issue,the only prob is the grips are now worn and need replacing,so if i`m to buy a new set,I hope i can still use my old controller,and plug the new grips into the harness,if not,out with the soldering iron

mtbeerwah wrote:I have the old style as well,its 5yr old and never had an issue,the only prob is the grips are now worn and need replacing,so if i`m to buy a new set,I hope i can still use my old controller,and plug the new grips into the harness,if not,out with the soldering iron

I read on another Forum (don't recall which one) where a guy did exactly that, the new controller and the old one are compatible

yeah,good stuff

madmax wrote:

mtbeerwah wrote:I have the old style as well,its 5yr old and never had an issue,the only prob is the grips are now worn and need replacing,so if i`m to buy a new set,I hope i can still use my old controller,and plug the new grips into the harness,if not,out with the soldering iron

I read on another Forum (don't recall which one) where a guy did exactly that, the new controller and the old one are compatible

I'll say it again .High -Off -Low switch is all you need .Why over complicate it ? I dont need that controll panel sitting there doing nothing for
8 momths either ,its hardly attractive .

gus wrote:I'll say it again .High -Off -Low switch is all you need .Why over complicate it ? I dont need that controll panel sitting there doing nothing for
8 momths either ,its hardly attractive .

I don't know about only 2 settings. I like to vary mine at different times.
and I think this one looks pretty good

oops forgot to add the link

http://lockitt.com/Lockitt/product/EHST21.html

Mine have been on for over two years with the newer controller. No issues at all, and just a little wear on the grips. They handle Wellington winters well

disagree, my old style controller can burn on full,and at the same time of year if I was to choose low,would be a waist of time turning it on

gus wrote:I'll say it again .High -Off -Low switch is all you need .Why over complicate it ? I dont need that controll panel sitting there doing nothing for
8 momths either ,its hardly attractive .

I see your point .Mine on LOW is just right ,High is for extreme .

Had a quick look on fleabay and noticed the Oxford heated grips for "cruisers". These has a similar knob controller to what Madmax posted.
I'll keep looking/investigating. May find that just by gritting my teeth hard enough, the pain from my frozen fingers goes away!

I've had the newer controller with mine for two years. They've seen plenty of rain with no problems at all.

my original blew up and i had it replaced

You didnt have it wired to the seat to keep your friends butt warm did you ?
No wonder it expired ,i would have .

I have a set of the newer grips and was just wondering how many people hooked them up directly to the battery, or did they hook up to the ignition???? If someone has used an ignition system, or a spare fuse, could you please show me some photos as I dont really want hook up directly to the battery. I did this on an 80"s bike that I didnt ride that often and it kept draining the battery. I was also thinking if I do go to the battery I might just rig up a quick detachable connection at the battery and plug it in before I start riding. It would take all of 1 min to connect?????? Any info would be appreciated.

ghost1 wrote: I have a set of the newer grips and was just wondering how many people hooked them up directly to the battery, or did they hook up to the ignition???? If someone has used an ignition system, or a spare fuse, could you please show me some photos as I dont really want hook up directly to the battery. I did this on an 80"s bike that I didnt ride that often and it kept draining the battery. I was also thinking if I do go to the battery I might just rig up a quick detachable connection at the battery and plug it in before I start riding. It would take all of 1 min to connect?????? Any info would be appreciated.

All you need to do to connect to the battery is to use a relay. Use the headlight wiring as the trigger wire. That way your grips will be powered from the battery but only work when the headlight is on.

I velcroed a relay into the undertray, and ran the coil side of the relay across the numberplate light circuit for a switched feed.

I have a full writeup and wiring diagram at: http://kewwibike.blogspot.co.nz/2011/11/wiring-heated-grips.html

The headlight feed is OK as well, but I suggest if you want the relay up front, run the coil of the relay off one of the two side lights, so if anything goes wrong you don't lose your headlight.

The Oxfords in theory have a circuit that switches them off if the battery voltage is low, but my mate found out on his V Strom that they do switch off after it's too flat to do anything....

I switched mine to the headlight with a fuse because I was worried that if I lefted it connected to the tailight I would accidentally switch the bike to parklights and walk away. Something I've done twice so far.
Bloody parklights, who needs them

madmax wrote:

gus wrote:I'll say it again .High -Off -Low switch is all you need .Why over complicate it ? I dont need that controll panel sitting there doing nothing for
8 momths either ,its hardly attractive .

I don't know about only 2 settings. I like to vary mine at different times.
and I think this one looks pretty good

oops forgot to add the link

Im assuming these are from lockitt (dot) com?

I had to delete the link and made "modifications" to above address as ...
New members are not allowed to post external links or emails for 7 days. Please contact the forum administrator for more information.


Did anyone buy the Symtec controller instead of the Oxford one?