Heated grips

I brought these on e-bay about 18 m0nths ago ,have no idea why ,but it could have been the price $5 yes $5 ,delivered .
The idea is the same as my $70 heated grips which work great .
If a person was to buy an low-off-high switch .$12 to replace the on-off switch .
Add a resistor $2 for the LOW setting .
You have heated grips for $19

I have similar but can't be arsed fitting them as I don't really want to trash the stock grips

I fitted mine and had no problem removing and re-fitting grips .On the Suzuki and Triumph .Lift up end of grip insert red tube on the wd 40 can,
squirt ,Rotate grip .

interesting but do you really need em in qld? I ride middle of winter and I just use winter gloves....

I have been known to travel .Tasi in March could be on.

chips wrote:interesting but do you really need em in qld? I ride middle of winter and I just use winter gloves....

+1

gus wrote:I brought these on e-bay about 18 m0nths ago ,have no idea why ,but it could have been the price $5 yes $5 ,delivered .
The idea is the same as my $70 heated grips which work great .
If a person was to buy an low-off-high switch .$12 to replace the on-off switch .
Add a resistor $2 for the LOW setting .
You have heated grips for $19

Do you still have these fitted? If so how good are they?

Here is a way to wire heated grips without using a resistor for the low power setting.

The low power setting is achieved by connecting the grips in series which will reduce the power to 1/4 of high power setting.

I have 2 sets of those $5 grips .The look exactly the same pads as the $70 one's .
I have thought exactly the same thing .

Silly question. Where does the rubber pad go??

The red pad goes in the bin .The heated pad goes onto a layer of electrical tape on the bar .This stop's the heat going directly into the bar instead
of the grips .You may find with no resitor (so you have no LOW ) it will be too HOT .I always use low ,no need for any more .
I connected to the parking light wire ,black and brown from memory .Only power when ignition is ON.
Do yourself a faviour and get a better (bigger ) switch

gus wrote:The red pad goes in the bin .The heated pad goes onto a layer of electrical tape on the bar .This stop's the heat going directly into the bar instead
of the grips .You may find with no resitor (so you have no LOW ) it will be too HOT .I always use low ,no need for any more .
I connected to the parking light wire ,black and brown from memory .Only power when ignition is ON.

Cheers for that Gus.

The 5am rides to work for early shift are a wee bit cold even with the bark busters. So I need some heated grips. I have a Low/Hi switched from off the BMW. I think the ones on eBay for around $3 to $6 will do.

Any auto shop $6 .I can give you the resistor number if you wish so you get LOW .Jaycar $5

gus wrote:Any auto shop $6 .I can give you the resistor number if you wish so you get LOW .Jaycar $5

I have a Jaycar down the road. Please you give part number.

Hey Gus can i have that resistor number from Jaycar please.

Thanks Gus.

I took a copy of that photo to Jaycar today and they did not have a clue. They did not have any at all. Said they want a part #.

I got it from jaycar but its not a jaycar part .I'll see if i can find out what make it is .

The resistor in Gus' photo is a 2R0 10watt
Jaycar have one listed which is so close as to be the same.
Cat# RR3344 being 2R2 10watts $1-40
The big difference is the RR3344 is a plain ceramic one not in a nice aluminium housing
You would need to hold it in place with a small metal bracket.

The exact resistor is available from RS Components (online)
Cat #252-2489 $4-81
Phone RS Components 1300 656636

The other option is to wire the grips as per my previous reply where the grips are in parallel for high heat and in series (1/4) power for low heat.

Thanks Dave.

The plain ceramic one's break at the wire in and out .

gus wrote:The plain ceramic one's break at the wire in and out .

Noted.

gus wrote:The plain ceramic one's break at the wire in and out .

Yep, I agree with Gus.

Plus a bit of mucking around making a bracket etc.

IMO using a resister is the same as riding full throttle and using your brakes to keep you at the speed limit, it is a waste of energy, you might as well wrap your hands around the resister to keep warm. Much better to use the series/parallel switching technique described earlier.