Holeshot performance stage2

Hi all, 
I have decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to stage 2 (Dale Walkers Holshot performance stage 2 setup) but using the delkevic headers, and I want to know if after removing the secondary's and opening up the air box lid, would I need to make adjustments to the Dobeck TFI clock positions from the stage 1 settings?
Thanks for your advice (soon to be) fellow stage 2ooers
I have tried to look this particular info up a few times on here but to no avail, but along the way I've found out some valuable information that convinced me to go for it though:D . Holeshot performance's stage 2 conversion http://www.holeshot.com/ with Dales headers is showing 132hp:shock:, wonder what I'll get with delkevic headers? I dont live close to any bike dynos but do live near to a drag strip http://www.benarabyraceway.com/. I've never been into drags b4 but what away to test 'er out! 

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You will definitely need the fueling looked at. I run a power commander but same idea, just add some fuel. 

Mine ran an 11.04 at the strip. I was asleep on the tree though.

Yes, the settings a different between stage 1 and 2, and different again with Dale's headers.  You will need to contact him as he asks that his settings not be shared on line

Yes thanks Kewwig and reddog, I e-mailed Dale yesterday and I'm sure I'll hear back from him soon, I guess I was being impatient as my shift rota starts tomorrow (fri) and I thaught I might get the magic numbers (during my days off) quicker from someone here, I had forgoten about the secrecy thing in my enthusiasm for the mod!   <~I do feel a little bit like this fella
Only really happened as I more closely resemble a 3yr old at christmas eve at the moment, as the stage 1 mod was such an awesome transformation, oh well, I only Have four 12 hour shifts to do an I can get back into it! Anyway I was getting a bit ahead of myself as I haven't even started on it (throttle body removal and the dreaded secondary   screws) yet (except the airbox lid), I just like to make sure I have all the peices lined up before my next set of days off so I don't waste too much time.
Sheeezus you should see me in those never ending security checkpoint ques at the airport these days, I mean come on, do we really have too .... OH thats a whole nother rant, I could fill pages!

The last one I modified was Dale's Stage 2 plus his headers and the owner put it on the dyno and came back happily with 130.8 hp. The settings with headers definitely differ to Stage 2

kewwig wrote:The last one I modified was Dale's Stage 2 plus his headers and the owner put it on the dyno and came back happily with 130.8 hp. The settings with headers definitely differ to Stage 2

More fuel needed for full throttle red zone and a lower switch point when you add the header.

Good luck and enjoy the extra HP

I’m in the US at the moment and had a Dale send me a full stage 2 kit with PAIR removal plus a fork brace which will all be installed when I get back to Sydney. Will initially be with just a slip-on but plan to fit a full system down the track. According to Dale the tune isn’t too fussy and doesn’t really need adjustment between the stock and aftermarket headers. Can’t wait to see the results.

Meatbix wrote:I’m in the US at the moment and had a Dale send me a full stage 2 kit with PAIR removal plus a fork brace which will all be installed when I get back to Sydney. Will initially be with just a slip-on but plan to fit a full system down the track. According to Dale the tune isn’t too fussy and doesn’t really need adjustment between the stock and aftermarket headers. Can’t wait to see the results.

Just as Kewwig and I stated, the tune is definitely different with an aftermarket header. The Holeshot 4-2-1 header, Arrow 4-2-1 header and BlackWidow 4-2-1 (similar to Arrow) are more free flowing than the Delkevic 4-1 header. If you know how to adjust the SuperTuner which is easy, you can ask Dale for the settings. The header definitely makes a difference from 6,000 rpms and up. Well worth the cost not to mention the weight savings of ~10 lbs. BTW, the box for the BlackWidow header is very small as it multi piece assembly if you are concerned about shipping back home. Probably smaller than the silencer box.

Got all my Holeshot goodies installed yesterday, (Stage 2 tune, open air box, PAIR removal kit plus the Holeshot muffler mount). Went pretty smoothly apart from one butterfly screw which stripped and had to be drilled out (the others all came out easily with the application of a little heat as recommended). Bike fired up first time and sounds like a different beast already. About to take it for a test ride, wish me luck!

Meatbix wrote:Got all my Holeshot goodies installed yesterday, (Stage 2 tune, open air box, PAIR removal kit plus the Holeshot muffler mount). Went pretty smoothly apart from one butterfly screw which stripped and had to be drilled out (the others all came out easily with the application of a little heat as recommended). Bike fired up first time and sounds like a different beast already. About to take it for a test ride, wish me luck!

Those butterflies are a pain - I had one screw that wouldn't come out as well & had to drill it out. 

My bike is much better without them though, how's yours going?

SRAD_Pitt wrote:

Meatbix wrote:Got all my Holeshot goodies installed yesterday, (Stage 2 tune, open air box, PAIR removal kit plus the Holeshot muffler mount). Went pretty smoothly apart from one butterfly screw which stripped and had to be drilled out (the others all came out easily with the application of a little heat as recommended). Bike fired up first time and sounds like a different beast already. About to take it for a test ride, wish me luck!

Those butterflies are a pain - I had one screw that wouldn't come out as well & had to drill it out. 

My bike is much better without them though, how's yours going?

First impression was fantastic. Sounds different right from first startup, throatier and angrier. Throttle response is much snappier, everything just feels much more authorative, and the howl of induction noise you get from the opened  up air filter when you crack the throttle hard give me a bit of a chubby, haha. 
Took it through the Nasho yesterday and was enjoying it immensely, unfortunately when I got to the ‘gong and fuel ran low the fuel gremlins I’ve been having struck and it obviously pulled some crap into the teabag, the ride home was fine at cruising speeds but I couldn’t rev it hard as it started staving of fuel. Took the tank off today and cleaned it out thoroughly including a treatment with rust remover, a fair bit of crud and scale came out so hopefully that’s fixed that issue for good now. Gues I’ll have to take it for another ride tomorrow to be sure

I removed the secondary throttle blade rod too by splitting the throttle body apart. Took a little extra time but was well worth it to me. I used a Healtech STVA eliminator and no code 28 nor 29. Just a straight path now without interruption of that slotted rod that turns and disrupts the incoming air.

Joflewbyu2 wrote:I removed the secondary throttle blade rod too by splitting the throttle body apart. Took a little extra time but was well worth it to me. I used a Healtech STVA eliminator and no code 28 nor 29. Just a straight path now without interruption of that slotted rod that turns and disrupts the incoming air.

How did you plug the holes that the rod left behind?

The metal cap stays in place on the right side of the throttle body while i use a rubber plug on the left side where the sensor came out. I used a heavy duty reinforced hose between the left and right throttle body and left the holes between the ports open which helps smooth the idle. 

No more STVA twisting the blade less rod with slots that disrupts the incoming air. Less moving parts to go wrong. I believe it helped although Dale Walker from Holeshot Performance said he dyno tested with and without the rod and there was no difference in peak power. I believe it helped by improving throttle response and predictability a tad.