penrite hpr30

First topic message reminder :

just a quick one. on the penrite website they mention hpr30 is ok for use in motorcycle engines with wet clutches but nothing is on the bottle at all with regards to that.
I spoke to their lubes guys and they said it is ok to use but its not jaso ma certified because of the amount of zinc in the oil apparently as I recall. I could be wrong. anyways I thought that a heavy 60 weight oil might help my 1200 witha bit of a hot engine noise and clutch shudder just before the lever is fully released.
I changed the filter and filled with hpr30. well im impressed. its smoother, clutch shudder is gone and quieter.
I was using hpr gas 10. so the hpr30 gets my approval.

Ironman wrote:Nope. Hpr gas10

So u reckon the hpr gas 10 is good for the bikes 
It actually states on the bottle that it has no friction modifyers in it

It even has a little picture of a bike on the bottle! I use it in my dl1000 and my b1200 road bike. Hpr30 in my track bike.
Until something comes along to change my way of thinking or finding out its been old recycled makkie d's chippy fat the whole time ill keep on using it.
Btw i saw you can buy 4lt of motul 5100 10w50 for $70. Or you can buy 5lt of gas10 for $33.74 on special. Keep on using the gas10 enough times you will have enough left over in each bottle to get another change for free! Woooo hoooooo!!!
Sorry... i got excited.

Nice one thanks ironman 
Been using stuff from the local bike shop and costs me about $65 for 3.8 lt (not even an even 4lt ) and can get hpr gas 10 from super shit for about $40 for 5lt might have to give it a go i think

I like it, bike does too. But i do get indigestion from it sometimes.

You need to water it down with a bit of scotch ironman cures the indigestion issues

Ill try that. Good news is i dont have to grunt now each time i haul myself out of a chair.

I have been using Penrite HPR GAS 10 in all my bikes for years. Ducati monster, Bandit1200S, 2x TL1000s and I will be using it in the DL1000. Bikes, clutches and gearboxes have run seamlessly on it. It's the shit! IMHO 

ok ran the hpr 30 for the 5000k went well with no issues ... but I will take ironmans advise and run the gas 10 this change $35 for 5 ltr at repco yesterday with 30% disc for racq members. That's about half price compared to the bike shop oil [ the tightarse is strong in this one]

Gave my bike a gut full of the hpr10 gas on the weekend seems to be running nice and smooth so far a little quieter gear changes a smooth as even seems to start a little easier 

Used 20w-50 (not Penrite tho) in the Bandit and GSX650F year round when we had them.
Also used in the Vee and Wee's we had (then chopped and changed oil a few times to end up using HPR Gas 10 like other have)
Some of the colder temps got down to Oh or slightly lower.
Had no probs

Used the same stuff (the 20w-50) in a 3.0 4cyl Deso engine for 170k-ish kms right down to -13 or so at times. No probs in that one either.

dhula wrote:Used 20w-50 (not Penrite tho) in the Bandit and GSX650F year round when we had them.
Also used in the Vee and Wee's we had (then chopped and changed oil a few times to end up using HPR Gas 10 like other have)
Some of the colder temps got down to Oh or slightly lower.
Had no probs

Used the same stuff (the 20w-50) in a 3.0 4cyl Deso engine for 170k-ish kms right down to -13 or so at times. No probs in that one either.

Good to hear from you dhula how have you been ?

paul wrote:I might be missing something here, but why not just use motorcycle oil designed for motorcycles .................a little dearer sometimes depending on the oil , but the cost spread over mileage ratio would be negligible.

Because usually the only thing differentiating it from a normal engine oil is the part on the label where it says MOTORCYCLE and the price.  oils have a viscosity rating and a grade.  if they are correct the oil is ok to use.  Oils labelled as motorcycle oils are nothing but a marketing rip off

meggens85 wrote:

Ironman wrote:Nope. Hpr gas10

So u reckon the hpr gas 10 is good for the bikes 
It actually states on the bottle that it has no friction modifyers in it

Friction modifiers haven't been in engine oils for years.  that was an 80's thing.

GDUB wrote:

meggens85 wrote:

Ironman wrote:Nope. Hpr gas10

So u reckon the hpr gas 10 is good for the bikes 
It actually states on the bottle that it has no friction modifyers in it

Friction modifiers haven't been in engine oils for years.  that was an 80's thing.

Are you sure about that?  Or is it just that they aren't advertised on the packaging as a "sales gimmick" now?

This is from the few I searched in the past 1/2 hr (home with the man flu and bored shitless  )

Shell's web site still has this in it's FAQ's "Friction modifiers reduce the drag between moving parts to increase fuel economy."

Castrol don't mention "Friction Modifiers" but do mention additives that change the molecular structure to reduce friction in Castrol Edge , same, same, different terminology

Mobil has "Proprietary Multi-Layer Anti-Wear Technology"

Penrite's tech bulletin still mentions "Friction Modifiers", looks like they've decided to keep it simple instead of baffling everyone with new fancy gimmicky sales pitches  

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/tech_pdfs/Oil%20Additives%20-%20Nov%202014.pdf

This article was written in May 2000
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/ls.3010120305/abstract

paul wrote:Good to hear from you dhula how have you been ?

I'm doing pretty dam well if I do say so myself :-)
Not riding anymore unfortunatly :-( but it's a personal choice driven by medical/physical issues.
Doing more 4wding and camping type stuff now-a-days which suits us a bit better given what we can/can't or  shouldn't be doing.

I remember friction modified oil was blamed years ago for glazed bores causing oil burning issues.

5W?
6lts is pretty good value.

The first number (5W) relates to its viscosity @ 0C and tells you about its start-up performance; a low number means it will flow well on initial start-up ensuring that you get oil where needed ASAP.  This is generally the top end as it if furtherest away from the oil pump.  The other number (40) relates to its viscosity @ 100C; as they are both 40 they will perform the same at the operating temp of the engine.

So, 5W-40 as opposed to 10W-40; a little better cold and same (or more importantly as the engine manufacturer intended) at running temp.

This IMO is a very good oil (lots of zinc, bad for cats good for engine wear), MA rated (so you know it will work in a motorcycle), widely available (that's one thing Supercheap has going for it) and well priced. I change this stuff annually.

In the end, I think we enthusiasts are all intelligent people and so long as you aren't pouring chippy fat into your bike you aren't going to kill it.
Motorcycle Oil is like ice cream - we all have our favorite flavor. I just need to have the Lactose free one - otherwise I spin a main bearing.

Just to add further confusion...

lucasoil.com.au/products/motorcycle-products/motorcycle-oil-stabilizer

Let it begin! 

Ironman wrote:Just to add further confusion...

lucasoil.com.au/products/motorcycle-products/motorcycle-oil-stabilizer

Let it begin! 

I'm trying this as we speak. 
The only reason I've got it in my engine is, cause it was given to me.
It has quietened it a little,  but at the same time i put it in, i also went to a 50w oil, so that could also be a contributor to the silencing. 
It's thicker than syrup.Don't think I'll put it in again.
In am thinking about the product "Cerma".
Been reading a bit up on it, after recently working with an old fitter last week,  that puts it in everything he's  ever owned.  But i do get scared of putting additives in engines.......as I've just done.

I run the Lucas / Flashlube upper cylinder lube in my fuel each fill. The theory of it in my opinion is sound (lubes anything the fuel comes into contact with since lead has been outlawed) and it does leave the exhaust outlet that tiny iddy bit oily.

My dyno lad gave me a bottle to mix with my oil, for Cam and Rocker treatment,  not for valve seat control via fuel. 
I'm most concerned with the inner working of the head, and the heat also related to this area. 
Cerma, is supposed to penetrate all metal surfaces,  and not mix with oil  to give a ceramic like coating.
It is a once only treatment, and from what i understand, you have to run the engine non stop for 6 hours,  for it to work effectively.
But......do i believe it ?????
I'll read more.

Ironman wrote:Just to add further confusion...

lucasoil.com.au/products/motorcycle-products/motorcycle-oil-stabilizer

Let it begin! 

Sounds like a new version of an old treatment ............STP