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Bleeding Brakes for a GSX1250

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Ironman
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Post  Jimcoleman Thu 07 Jul 2016, 6:14 pm

Hi all

just wondering if i could get some advice on Bleeding my front brakes, i have done a bleed from the caliper but has any one done a bleed from the bleeder under the fairing and does it get all the air out of the system.

After a long ride in the twisites my front brake gets rather spongey and after a bleed they are better but i wonder if i bleed from the splitter that will improve it further

has anyone done this and doesn't make any difference

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Post  Ironman Thu 07 Jul 2016, 8:23 pm

I suppose you could do it from there but id do the calipers last also. They shouldnt get spongy unless you are boiling the fluid or there is a leak somewhere allowing air into the system.

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Post  Ironman Thu 07 Jul 2016, 8:26 pm

Yours has abs doesnt it?

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Post  Jimcoleman Fri 08 Jul 2016, 8:38 pm

Ironman wrote:I suppose you could do it from there but id do the calipers last also. They shouldnt get spongy unless you are boiling the fluid or there is a leak somewhere allowing air into the system.
Thanks Ironman i am doing that already i am mainly interested in seeing if the top bleed as well improves it

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Post  Jimcoleman Sat 09 Jul 2016, 7:06 pm

Bled the brakes today started off at the bottom, just little bit of air on both sides. Did the splitter under the fairing and a shit load of air came out of both bleeders. Went for a little ride today just to check, it seems much better more feel but i think i will put a calliper kit in and replace the standard front brake lines with braided hopefully that will improve the braking

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Post  Bosco15 Sat 09 Jul 2016, 10:33 pm

Would be worth while researching threads on brake lines, if yours is abs. 
I remember reading about nightmare results, trying to bleed after fitment of braided lines to abs 1250's.

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Post  BoomGT Sat 09 Jul 2016, 10:41 pm

My GSF 1250 non ABS has braided lines and Ferodo sintered pads. Standard Dot 4 fluid would boil away to the point of an empty reservior and I was just thinking the fluid looked clean in the sight glass, a change to RBF 600 fixed the problem. Anyway the point of all this is removing the front wheel and pushing the pistons all the way back in the calipers gives a real solid lever and better feel after you pump the front lever up of course. I do it regularly, works for me.
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Post  Jimcoleman Sat 09 Jul 2016, 10:42 pm

Thats only if you replace all the brake lines if i just replace the front three and the abs circuit remains intact so there should be no issue

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Post  Chook Sun 10 Jul 2016, 12:34 am

Jimcoleman wrote:Thats only if you replace all the brake lines if i just replace the front three and the abs circuit remains intact so there should be no issue
I'd read the thread before I went ahead with the braided lines, IIRC it was a pain in the arse
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Post  Jimcoleman Sun 10 Jul 2016, 6:52 am

Chook wrote:
Jimcoleman wrote:Thats only if you replace all the brake lines if i just replace the front three and the abs circuit remains intact so there should be no issue
I'd read the thread before I went ahead with the braided lines, IIRC it was a pain in the arse
Thanks Chook for that advice but I have read all the threads and tag has experienced it first hand.  But the gsx is different than the gsf in that under the front fairiing where the main front brake line joins to the front left and right brake lines the splitter i. Suppose you d call it has 2 bleeders where the Gsf does not. 

This is where the problem seems to lie when replacing abs brake lines , Cameron and Tag had a torred time. Tag invested in a $600 front brembo mastercylinder for one reason , because it bleader on the it. 

So of the gsf it appears that air gets trapped between the splitter and the mastercylinder and cannot be bleed with ease so to suzuki's credit they fixed it with the gsx

Plus i will not be replacing any of the abs circuit

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Post  Bosco15 Sun 10 Jul 2016, 7:24 am

Bleedin' 'ell!  jocolor

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Post  Ironman Sun 10 Jul 2016, 7:58 am

BoomGT wrote:My GSF 1250 non ABS has braided lines and Ferodo sintered pads. Standard Dot 4 fluid would boil away to the point of an empty reservior and I was just thinking the fluid looked clean in the sight glass, a change to RBF 600 fixed the problem. Anyway the point of all this is removing the front wheel and pushing the pistons all the way back in the calipers gives a real solid lever and better feel after you pump the front lever up of course. I do it regularly, works for me.
Graham
Where did you find that the boiled fluid went?

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Post  Chook Sun 10 Jul 2016, 11:13 am

Jimcoleman wrote:
Chook wrote:
Jimcoleman wrote:Thats only if you replace all the brake lines if i just replace the front three and the abs circuit remains intact so there should be no issue
I'd read the thread before I went ahead with the braided lines, IIRC it was a pain in the arse
Thanks Chook for that advice but I have read all the threads and tag has experienced it first hand.  But the gsx is different than the gsf in that under the front fairiing where the main front brake line joins to the front left and right brake lines the splitter i. Suppose you d call it has 2 bleeders where the Gsf does not. 

This is where the problem seems to lie when replacing abs brake lines , Cameron and Tag had a torred time. Tag invested in a $600 front brembo mastercylinder for one reason , because it bleader on the it. 

So of the gsf it appears that air gets trapped between the splitter and the mastercylinder and cannot be bleed with ease so to suzuki's credit they fixed it with the gsx

Plus i will not be replacing any of the abs circuit
Bleeding Brakes for a GSX1250  959052286
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Post  BoomGT Mon 11 Jul 2016, 4:20 pm

Fluid just evaporated. The level in the reservior dropped relatively quickly over a few weeks. No leaks in the system.

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Post  buford_t_justice Wed 20 Jul 2016, 2:39 pm

I bled mine (f&r) some months back, both at the calipers and at the intermediate point in the forks (I have an FA). Still the front lever felt spongy.
Recently I changed the pads, which meant pushing the pistons back in while the MC reservoir cap was off.

Immediately I noticed my brakes much less spongy, not sure if it has something to do with the pistons not being extended out as far with the new pads or the act of pushing the piston in causing trapped air in the calipers to escape up to the MC.  If this is true, it may be worthwhile unbolting the calipers and bleeding them on a different angle.  On my old Diavel, this was the **only** way you could get a firm rear brake (as the caliper/bleed nipple was mounted upside down - no amount of bleeding/reverse bleeding would work). 

Not saying a solution, but food for thought.
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Post  Bosco15 Wed 20 Jul 2016, 6:57 pm

You just brought to mind an experience I had with an 1988 gsxr750. I could not get good lever no matter how much I blead, until I finally completely by chance discovered that forcing pistons all the way home (chocked wooden wedges between pads and disc) allowed the minute amount of air that was causing the problem to escape.

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